20 Most Recent Whirlpool LGR6611L Gas Dryer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Depending on the year, the F1 code is a control board fault. If the dryer does not start (clicking noise heard but drum does not start) it may be a solder joint on the board has cooked. If you are handy it is a 15-20 minute fix.

Replace the thermal fuse . A small white plastic piece on the blower housing with 2 wires going to it .

This may seem like a silly question, but have you checked the vent. If it is clogged or blocked, the sensor is going to prevent the element from coming on.

Loosen all the screws and try it again.

There are two thermistors (thermal sensors) in this dryer; one is the outlet thermistor located on the blower housing and the other is the inlet thermistor located on the heating element housing as an integral part of the high-limit thermostat.



These thermistors are negative coefficient type and monitors the dryer temperature on their locations according to their resistance which varies inversely with the temperature. The resistance drops as the temperature rises and rises as temperature drops.

One or both of the thermistors has an open connection or high resistance which makes the electronic control board thinks that the dryer temperature is low no matter how high it is. The electronic control board then doesn't cycle the heater relay and continue to turn on the heating element. The dryer temperature continues to rise and this blows the thermal fuse.

Make sure the thermistors are connected snugly. Remember that loose or open connection means high (infinite) resistance which makes the electronic control thinks of low dryer temperature. Measure the resistance of each thermistor then refer to the tables below. Replace the thermistor if the resistance reading doesn't comply with the table.



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You could have a broken belt. 5his unit has a belt switch if the belt is broken it won't run.

Sounds like the control switch is bad. You should be able to find one on ebay, and a video on how to replace it on "you tube".

https://www.hunker.com/13410601/how-to-remove-the-front-panel-of-a-whirlpool-dryer

Heat circuit runs through thermostats and fuses (most dryers have 4), timer, heating element, and motor. Could be any one of those. Also insure you have 240 volts going to dryer.

Searspartsdirect.com may have one on parts list.

Here you find the answers you are looking https://producthelp.whirlpool.com/Troubleshooting_Guides/Troubleshooting_for_Dryers_(Top_Load_Matching)/Error_Codes/F%23E%23/F4E4

Water temperature sensor is suspect. See troubleshooting instructions in following... http://www.fixya.com/support/t11902052-whirlpool_dryer_error_code_f05

Yes same part # means same part. Maytag is a whirlpool company.

Could be a thermostat but also check for grounded out heating element.

that could be a few different things ,broken belt,there's a switch on the belt pulley that stops the dryer from starting as a safety if the belt breaks,you didn't send the model number next time send it,open the door,look around the opening where you put the clothes in and you'll see a tag with the model number on it,could be a bad thermal fuse,high limit thermostat,the only way to tell is by getting in there with a meter and check it,the easiest thing to do is take the lid off and grab the belt and pull on it to see if it broke,check the door switch,push it in and out and make sure it's working,also on the back where the cord connects make sure you have 240 volts there if it's electric,if it's gas then you know you already have power because the light is on.if you need more help send model number and do a few checks and i can help you out.also have you seen any error codes come up,if so send them.

My GUESS is the machine was either operated without the lint screen and an item made its way near the exhaust fan or piece of the lint screen itself has broken loose and made its way near the fan. The sand noise would likely be debris being swept up by what ever got into the fan duct, then through the fan leaving the item stuck near the fan. I suppose it would be possible for lint to build up in the internal duct and it dislodged... but not likely unless poor exhaust or extreme exhaust vent length. But I would expect other complaints if that were the case.

Yes you want to see if the heating element is turning on and off but no flame is being lit. You might have to take the casing off to see it. There are two coils that open the gas valves one with 2 wires and one with three wires I believe. One of the coils is most likely the problem. Use a digital multimeter, it's your friend.

Check voltage to dryer, door switch and thermal fuse to begin with.

Possibly a bad motor, maybe something hung in blower fan, maybe worn rollers etc.

Retest the breaker. One side can trip without moving the handle. This will stop 240 to the element but still operate everything that operates at 120 volts.