20 Most Recent Whirlpool 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Washer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

This is symptomatic of an intermittent (cold) water control valve- sometimes only partially opens.
It needs replacing! Service call ;-0(
Good luck,
John C

Replace the coupler. This is a very reliable transmission and it's unlikely it's the cause of your broken coupler.

Had a similar problem, this might be the solution.

Unplug the washer, remove the two screws that hold the control panel to the top. Tilt the panel back, remove the plug going to the top and the two clips that secure the back to the case. Tip the case forward to release it from the front edge of the bottom frame and set it aside. From the front, you should see two springs attaching the bottom of the tub to the lower frame. The tub end of the spring is attached to a bracket that is screwed into the tub. In my case, the screw holding the bracket to the tub had vibrated loose, causing the centering effect to be lost. There is a third spring in the back if those two are intact.

Replace the bracket and screw, and you should be back in business. Best of all, it only takes time.

Check the continuity of the lid switch.

The hoses and inlet valve have screens that get plugged, check those areas.

the hose which is conected from the water cellunoid to the wash tub is badly damaged and therefore leaking

might have a blockage in your water line or lines. are your hoses kinked. is the washer plugged into a live power outlet?

replace lid switch

where yout timer asymbley and controls are a screw in the bottom left and right corner remove and flip timer assymbley back towards wall in dead center of cabinet there is a quick disconnet for the cord disconnect the complete following steps..

there should be another quick disconect usually sitting horisontal that usual for your lid switch remove and jump across the two outside wires reconnect power and put washer on drain and spin if it starts to spin this means the switch connected to this connector is bad called a lid switch which controls the washer not to spin if the washer lid was left open this is a safety mechanism and must be replace with a new switch i donnot reccomend leaving this switch jumped out even though you could do laundry untill your part comes in.....

The problem is likely in the clutch and brake assemblies. The clutch hub is attached to the spin pinion gear and as the spin pinion gear turns, the clutch hub also turns. The clutch lining is forced against the clutch hub by the clutch spring and as the clutch hub turns, friction between it and the clutch lining causes the clutch lining to turn.


As the clutch turns, the tab that holds the clutch spring on the lining, pushes the brake cam driver, releasing the brake. The tab on the clutch lining remains in contact with the brake cam driver, holding the brake released and then providing power to the spin tube through the brake release.


The clutch spring of your washer may be weak or broken or the clutch lining is worn preventing the tab that holds the clutch spring to force the brake cam driver and release the brake. The clutch spring must provide the necessary pressure for the lining to turn with the hub without slipping and for the clutch tab to push the brake cam driver and release the brake. Other possible reason is a broken brake cam driver or a worn brake shoe pads where the burning rubber noise may be coming from.

Let us know if you need further advice but indicate the exact model number of the machine for accurate troubleshooting. Please accept the solution should you find it helpful and informative. Accepting the solution will not stop you from communicating with the expert. You can still communicate with the expert as long as you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.

there are mainly two reasons for this a bad lid switch but if the washer is washing then ignore that. next and most common is a bad water pump either there is a block in the hose or the water pump has burned out and will need replacing need more help please ask


sonic boom electronics australia

please rank this advice if it helped

you may be talking about the agitator. if it is a one piece it should not move if you stop the washer while in wash cycle. if you stop it at spin it may move. if you have a 2 part agitator it should move ONLY TO ONE SIDE AND LOCK ON THE OTHER. if it move both ways you need to replace what is called "THE DOGS" inside the agitator.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France @17:21 Fri afternoon,

Please do not take this the wrong way but- there is 'level' and there are ' all 4 feet supporting the washer equally'.
As your washer is only a year old I would not suspect (yet) any internal malfunctioning- so a close check on the 2 front feet is required- honestly!
With the machine not running, firmly (and I mean firmly) push one front corner diagonally to the centre of the machine to see if there is any rocking at all. If there is even the slightest movement the foot at that corner deeds to be adjusted downwards until it is almost (and I say 'almost') pushing the machine up but not doing so.
If it is not the first corner which moves then you need to do the same with the other. Once all 4 feet are equally supporting the machine ,it is necessary to also ensure that the locking nuts are screwed tight UP to the base of the machine to stop them from moving.

If, after really ensuring the machine does not move by the above BUT it continues to dance all over the floor, maybe part of the drum supporting mechanism is broken/malfunctioning.
So far I have not been informed of anyone NOT being successful at curing dancing by the 'feet' method! I hope you are not the first!!!
Good luck,

John C

Sounds like the timer or control is bad

Check the pump to see if you have any obstructions in it and also check the drain line. Does it spin and not drain or just don't drain?

If this is a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER, a no agitation problem can have several causes. Most commonly, this is caused by either a lid switch malfunction or a broken motor coupling. The following link explains how you can diagnose the problem yourself and repair:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3965207-whirlpool_top_loader_no_spin_problem


If the washer IS running, but the agitator is slipping, then you may have worn agitator dogs, or a loose agitator bolt. The following link explains what the dogs are, and how to access to acces the bolt and replace them: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608577-replacing_agitator_dogs Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you may need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, use the part numbers from the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. Most of these parts are commonly sold as part of their in-store inventory.

Read through the information provided. If you have any questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER (located on a namepate along the wash tub rim under the lid) and let me know. I hope this is helpful to you. FYI: In less common situations, the problem could be related to a bad gearcase (transmission) or timer. These parts generally cost more as well. I woulkd recommend you verify the simple items first and verify your symptoms. If you need furhter guidance, let me know.

You may have a damaged or broken motor coupling. Whirlpool manufactured top loading washers use a motor coupling between the drive motor and gearcase (transmission) in place of a drive belt. This configuration is known as "direct-drive". The coupling can break through normal wear and tear. Washing frequent loads of heavy items and reduce the life span of the coupler. Common symptoms include the following:

1. No spin or agitation.
2. Washer will fill and empty.
3. Drive motor still runs.
4. Strange rattling, grinding or clicking noise during agitation or spin cycles as the drum sits still.

If your washer is exhibiting these symptoms, then its probably a safe bet that the motor coupling is bad.

The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574231-replacing_a_motor_coupling

The part number for a replacement motor coupling is inlcuded in the link I provided. Replacements can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I have listed also included helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) and let me know. I hope this helps you.

This is most likely the clutch check out this page http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/washer-not-spinning.html

check the water pump mabe som thenk is close it