20 Most Recent Whirlpool 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Washer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hi,
There are many thing that can cause your washer not to drain...the lid switch you already kind of checked but it really needs to be checked with a meter...the other thing you can do is check to make sure nothing is clogging the drain pump...many washers have a filter and I have gotten quite a bit of money out of them... :-) Amoung other things I'd rather not talk about... :-(
Here is a couple of tips that will help you trouble shoot your washer...I have includes both top and front loader cause I don't know exactly which you have... also it includes apinning problems cause they are often interelated...


If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

cheng the clutsh or trans meshen

If it fills up and stops the lid switch may be the problem. Push down on lid or switch.

maybe an ink pen trapped somewhere if you dont see anything scrapping the inner drum try taking inner drum out see if something stuck under there

Hi, I'd suspect the agitator gears (dogs) are worn. You'll need to remove the top of the agitator, (the cap) and then the 9/16" or 1/2" bolt in the center...it may look nothing like a bolt, it may be a plastic block, but it still screws off counter-clockwise. Once you have the agitator unfastened, you'll expose the hub/retainer which hold's the gears in place. Now you need to install new dogs alone part # 80040 or what I'd recommend, part # 285751 as a kit with new hub too. These are common and availble at most brick & mortar parts depot's as well as on-line vendor's such as "repairclininc.com" or "searspartsdirect.com". Hope that help's, let me know if I can assist you further. Thank's for visitng "fixya" today. Please take a second to rate this solution & leave a testimony. Good luck, macmarkus :)

http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16022808.pdf

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/9e4a27cd98ce352e852571fc006bc2ce/$FILE/8178604.pdf
http://www.washerhelp.co.uk/diy-repair-help.html
Hi, OK, the top link is for your service manual, the next is for a training ,manual, both are used to troubleshoot and hopefully repair your unit. Most Washers are pretty much, the same apart from individual idiosyncrasies and internal controller, so a lot of information and troubleshooting data is transferable. Work through the troubleshooting procedures and you'll soon isolate your problem. The last link, is for a Washer DIY help site, a great resource.

If this is a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER, and this is a simple matter of the agitator not working, but everything else does, you may just have a worn agitator cam assembly, worn agitator dogs, loose agitator bolt, or all of the above. The following link explains what agitator dogs are and how to access them:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608577-replacing_agitator_dogs

Whirlpool manufactured washers use a split agitator design. The top half is known as the "auger, while the lower half is the agitator. Between the two pieces is a cam assembly, with small teflon teeth known as "dogs". There's also an agitator bolt that holds the entire assembly to the center post.

If the auger (top half of the agitator) is slipping, I would suspect the dogs or cam assembly need to be replaced. The part number for the dogs is included in the link I provided. For a little more you can purchase the entire cam assembly which includes the dogs, the cam, the cam seal and thrust bearing.

If the entire agitator appears loose or slipping, check the agitator bolt to ensure it is tight. DO NOT overtighten as this can restrict movement of the agitator or damage it. Tighten until snug.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, use the part numbers from the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. All these parts are commonly sold as part of their in-store inventory.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Check the belt tension. Check the capacitors of the motor.

Remove the hose and look inside the water inlet valve for a screen pull this out and clean if dirty. Also check the screens in the hose. If all is clear the water inlet valve ( cold water solenoid) has failed. This needs to be replaced as a unit. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru testing the water inlet valve. It's a different model but testing will be the same.

There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will show you how to disassemble. No special tools required. When you remove the casing you will be able to run the machine to see for sure if it is coming out the tub seal. Might just be a hose or the pump.

drain pump could be leaking,,,main tub seal could also be leaking ,,,hose or the little air hose going to your water level switch! I would remove the outter shell and run it to see where it's leaking from

NOT CLUTCH, HAS A BAD TRANSMISSION

REPLACE YOUR AGITATOR "DOGS"

The agitator cogs may be worn. Please take appart the agitator to check it. If they are worn it is best to replace the whole assembly. It should not be that expensive. Please see the link below.
http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=708216&ModelNum=LXR7244JQ1&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=3&Selected=NKNTCCKW&Position=0&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=&Mark=0

Use a screwdriver to remove the screws holding down the control panel,then swing it upwards.


Use a flat blade screwdriver to pop these Clips


Unplug the lid switch connection.

Tip the case forward and remove it.You will now be able to repair the washer! " /> If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Pull the plug first. Open the top of the washer with a putty knife. Along the front, top seam, put the putty knife in, about 2" from both sides and push while lifting the top. As one side pops loose, put something like a pencil into the space, so it doesn't relatch while you're opening the other side. There is a spring catch on each side to hole the lid down. The top will pivot up, it has hinges along the back.

1. Look and find the pulley tensioner of your
washer, and loosen it up. This is a bolt holding
the motor base,and allow the base to move and
loosen the belt or tighten it.
2. When it is loose, you just put the belt back on the
big pulley track and then, on the small pulley.
3. Full the tensioner back in place to tighten the belt.
Just follow this instruction, and solve your problem.