Buy the water pump with the different size inlet and outlet ports. It's the proper one for your machine. It's also cheaper than the one you have. You can't make the one you have work with your machine and no adapter is available.
I would try to go to a scrap yard and look for similar machine to remove the part you need the only alternative is find the local washing machine engineer and get a similar pump to fit or take the pump apart and clean the motor shaft of cotton or other debris, reassemble and just maybe that's all it needed good luck eric
hi there.
If the washer won't drain or spin there might be a clogged pump or hose. It's common for small socks or other small clothing items to get into the water drain system and clog the hose leading to the pump or the pump itself. Remove the hoses from the pump in order to remove the article of clothing.16 Mar 2014
The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective.
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED).
The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board.
Washer fills with water then drains:
The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch)
If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design.
If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more.
Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning.
Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine.
Try raising the hose and see what happens.
Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit.
Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation.
Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS.
More information is needed. What model is this?
I am suspecting a coupler between Motor and Transmission. This rubber part breaks over the time. It is easy to fix if you are little handy. Provide more description to the problem.
Check the level sensor and the drain pump for clogging, if this is clean then the control panel is a suspect as the processor does not advance in cyclecheck for tips : washing machine tips .
The newer Whirlpool top-loaders have lint screens on the inner tub and not accessible. These are supposed to self-clean during the drain cycle. I've heard that liquid fabric softener and detergent build-up may clog the screens when lint sticks to the gooey screens. Try something that will cut the goo like vinegar or ammonia in a small load level without clothes. Without clothes in the washer, that is.
Older Whirlpool washers have lint filters located above the tub, on the lid opening.
