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Maytag Centennial 3.2 cu. ft. SuperSize Plus Top Load Washer - Page 8 Questions & Answers
Washer over flows wont agitate
we have a pressure switch problem...replace pressure switch,,,i dont understand what a cold to hot timer is,,,i assume you me water temperture switch...
9/3/2011 12:02:38 AM •
Maytag...
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Answered
on Sep 03, 2011
My Maytag washer pumps water
No sorry thier is no way to reduce the rate of drainage..the standpipe should be able to handle it,what i believe the problem is that the standpipe is partially blocked and needs to be snaked out to clean it or try some liquid plumber to clear the restriction in the pipe
8/31/2011 4:24:54 PM •
Maytag...
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Answered
on Aug 31, 2011
My washer has just started
Hi.
The problem is either caused by a drain system fault or by a defective pressure switch.
Check that height and setting of drain hose at the back are correct. If the hose is not set correctly (check manual), then water will flow back inside the appliance. The problem is called siphoning.
Make sure there is no drain system blockage. Inefficient drain because of blockage results in soaked water. Check hose connected to pump located at the base of the washer.
Check and eventually replace the pressure switch. The pressure switch detects water level and determines when to stop the spin part of the cycle. The pressure switch is located in control assembly, near to control module. Clean the long rubber hose connected to the switch.
Inside the control assembly look also for an envelope containing the tech sheet. The document will contain the instructions to run diagnostic cycle in this model. Run a diagnostic cycle.
Regards.
Ginko
8/29/2011 12:52:21 PM •
Maytag...
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Answered
on Aug 29, 2011
I have a Maytag Centinnal
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Are you sure that it is feeding 'fresh' water in or is there a possibility that the drainage has not been carried out efficiently? No promises but it's worth carrying this out anyway!
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
8/13/2011 8:00:05 PM •
Maytag...
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Answered
on Aug 13, 2011
Maytag Centennial Washer model MVWC6ESWW1
It
sounds like this is a clutch and brake assembly problem. The clutch
spring must
provide the necessary pressure for the lining to turn with the hub and
the clutch tab to push the brake cam driver and release the brake. The
clutch spring of your washer must be weak or the clutch lining is worn
causing it to slide and not release the brake. This prevents the tab
that holds
the clutch spring to force the brake cam driver, release the brake, and
allow the basket to spin particularly when the machine is under load. This is manifested in the spinning of the drum when the machine is empty. The clutch and brake assemblies are located just below the tub and the excessive heat resulted from the friction between the clutch lining and the clutch hub.
Remove the thrust washer from the agitator shaft then remove the clutch and brake assembly from the top of the gearcase by removing the retaining clip using a screwdriver. Unsnap the clip and the clutch retaining ring the slide the clutch off the agitator shaft. Make sure to retain the washer located under the clutch.
Install the new clutch assembly on top of the gearcase then insert the clutch band
and hold it in place. Using a pair of
needle-nose pliers, place the end caps on the clutch spring and
compress to insert into the open end of the band. Release the tension on
the spring and the band will stay in place the reinsert the retaining clip on top of the clutch.
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8/5/2011 2:04:40 AM •
Maytag...
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Answered
on Aug 05, 2011
I have a Maytag Centennial
I had the same issue. When I started the machine it began agitating and then began to fill as if it is beginning the second rinse cycle - well I think it was.... SO, I threw in some towels and began the cycle at the second rinse part of the cycle. Low and behold, the next load started and finished just fine.
I hope this helps. This is just one of many issues with this machine, but luckily I haven't had to call the repairman yet! They all seem to revolve around the thing being out of sync.
7/21/2011 3:00:10 PM •
Maytag...
•
Answered
on Jul 21, 2011
After spin cycle complete water
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(could be that the water is left in from inefficient draining so try this!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
7/7/2011 9:16:24 AM •
Maytag...
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Answered
on Jul 07, 2011
Not getting water to washing machine hot or cold
Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.We see allot of issues with this. If the water is on and filters where hose is hooked up are not blocked then you will have to replace the pressure switch temp selector switch. It is a combo switch. When you look it up by your model number order the temperature switch.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..
6/16/2011 12:27:39 PM •
Maytag...
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Answered
on Jun 16, 2011
Did not get a manual to clean washing machine
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
2 things- manual first!
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer manual' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount. You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct ;-0)
I would imagine that the manual will say something like 'put the contents of a proprietary limescale remover into the drum/tub'. It's important to carry out a clean regularly to clear limescale from off the heating element- and anywhere else at the same time.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C.
5/11/2011 7:40:39 PM •
Maytag...
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Answered
on May 11, 2011
18 months old, Maytag Centennial
Hi
May be a plugged Pressure Hose connected to the Water Level Switch in the Control Panel,other end connects to Tub. Try blowing through the Pressure Tube . This problem is going to be in the water level control or the tube that connects to the control may be partially clogged. if it is partially clogged the tube can retain pressure essentially fooling the water level control into thinking the tub is full. The best thing to do is to take the washer apart and check the tube to see if it is clogged and if not replace the water level control.
Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.Thank you for contacting fixya.com
5/3/2011 5:11:19 PM •
Maytag...
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Answered
on May 03, 2011
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