20 Most Recent Maytag Centennial 3.2 cu. ft. SuperSize Plus Top Load Washer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. If your washer doesn't drain or spin, you may read and learn what parts may cause this. First, you will want to check your water pump. You need to make sure it is working. Make sure you check the belt on the pump. Make sure it is not broken or loose. Also, make sure your pulley is not stuck in place. Sometimes, they will stick or barely turn at all. If this is the case, you will need to replace it. If the pump, pulley, and belt are working, make sure your motor is working. You should be able to hear it if it is. If it isn't, check your lid switch. The lid switch can cause the motor to not work. It may need adjusted. If not, go ahead and change it. A bad lid switch may cause the washer to not work at all. Now, if your pump is pumping and the washer still won't spin, you will want to check your belt and clutch. Once again, the belt may be broke or loose. Check to make sure your clutch is not worn also. This may be a case of a bad lid switch again as well. You could have a bad drive motor. This is what controls spinning, draining, and agitation. You could have a broken motor coupler. Over time, they will go bad and need replaced. It is possible that your transmission is slipping or damaged. And lastly, you could have a bad basket drive ir spin bearing. This is what allows the inner tub to move. If this is the case, you will probably hear loud sounds or loud banging. I want to thank you for reading and I hope this helps you

water will not enter the tub. Replaced water inlet valve. Checked inlet voltage 120v. No outlet voltage at water inlet valve.

This model Maytag is actually manufactured by Whirlpool. To access the lid switch on this particular model, all you should have to do is remove the operator console. The console has a retaining clip on each side holding it to the cabinet top. To release these clips, simply take a putty knife and slide it under the left and right front corners of the control panel push straight in towards the back of the washer. The clips will depress, allowing the operator console to be lifted up. The lid switch is mounted next to the left lid hinge. Refer to the "Top and Cabinet" parts illustration, Item 6 at searspartsdirect.com:


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Maytag-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-MVWC400VW1/3048/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=MVWC400VW1

Some other websites you may refer to for parts include:

pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

NOTE: If you model number does not cross reference to these sites, use the part numbers fromthe Sears websites as your search criteria. Often, the model numbers may not be included on some websites (newly added models), but the part numbers will.

HINT: In some cases, what may appear to be a bad lid switch, may only be an actuator adjustment. The acutator on these models is the rod attached to the left lid hinge. You can bend the rod slightly to adjust the contact with the lid switch, or it may be tightened as necessary. If the switch toggles (clicks) by hand with the actuator rod removed, the switch typically is not bad.

If you need to remove the entire cabinet to access under the lid, the following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3631789-washer_case_removal_whirlpool_top


If you need further assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Although you say it's level I would still recommend you try my method to make absolutely certain before considering something else. Someone else had used a spirit level in an attempt which didn't work but was successful following these guidance notes ;-0)

It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly!
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal suspension is malfunctioning.

Good luck,

John C

there are only 4 total reasons for this fault 1 your water has been turned of. 2 the lid switch is faulty 3 the most common the water inlet valve is burnt out 4 there is no power signal getting to the water inlet valve try putting the cold water hose onto the hot water inlet switch the washer to hot wash see if the water comes through

let me know

On the back of the Washer, you have your hot and cold water hoses that hook up to the Washer Water Inlet Control Valves. Shut the water off at the Main water valves in the wall. Disconnect the hoses from the Washer and check the filters inside the Water Inlet Control Valves. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

Replace the "water inlet valve" on your machine. If you could post your model number I can point you to the part you need.

Since this machine is only 3 month old I assume you have a warranty on this. If you start changing parts this will void the warranty. I can give you solutions to start with and see if this fixes the problem, but I suspect that the load senor on this machine may be bad. you see this problem, the cause is almost always a bad water level (load sensor) switch. It lives in the control console and looks like this:
Newer model Whirlpool-built top loading washers, which includes some Kenmore models, are using a newfangled technology called "auto load detection." Whirlpool models with model numbers like WTW57ESVW0 use this new system. Auto load detection senses the load of clothes in the tub and automagically provides the correct amount of water to get 'em washed. It works with a flow meter and an automatic temperature control (ATC) switch, both also new, to accomplish this miracle of modern engineering. My advice to you is to call the place you bought this machine at and have them send someone so you don't void the warranty. If you want advice on replacing parts then let me know and I can help with this.

Hi

First of all please use less load then you are using right now. If still it is not agitating then it seems that something is stuck and you'll have to remove the agitator to clean it. Also check if the door is getting locked. If the door lock-switch assembly is bad the control won't detect that the door is closed and so will not spin. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Hi,
You will need to type into your search engine 'maytag centennial washer manual' and you should be presented by a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay.

I hope you will be able to obtain one with the instructions you require without having to pay someone to do the repairs!

Good luck,

John C

Hi if you would please go to this website below it shows you an exploded parts diagram so you can see what to do, also you may buy the hose too if you want.
http://www.partwizard.net/product/113199/20018
But basically, take out the two screws that hold the console to the top and flip it back. Then disconnect the lid switch and use a screw driver to take out the two clips that hold the cabinet to the back. The cabinet will now tilt forward and come off, giving you access to the drain hoses.

Your pressure switch stops the water and allows it to start the next cycle. It's a switch either in the control panel or at the top of the tub with a small tube connected to it which goes down between the inner and outer tub. As the water level increases the air in the tube is compressed until there is enough pressure to "make the switch" stopping the water from filling. This tube can get clogged and the switch won't work. Remove the tube and clean it out. Blowing on the tube when it's still connected to the switch will make the switch if it's working and clear.


On some the water may not fill if the lid isn't shut. If the lid switch isn't working may also cause this. You can bypass the lid switch to see if it's the problem by connecting the two wires plugged into the switch.

Make sure there is water at the water inlet valve where the water supply connects. Try the load level at all levels and all water temp.

Welcome to fixya

I have a solution for this

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A washer this young may still be available for full at home free servicing by the factory warranty guidelines.

Your pre-solution is located above. More information is available in the comments

My name is Bruce

It must first fill with water before it washes. Might be a bad water valve, water temp switch, water level switch or timer. Your timer has a big block that pushes into for the connection, sometimes it backs out a hair or gets corrosion in it so check that.
Here are some videos that show how to get into the machine. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61