the machine is not level... put a level across front back sides to check adjust legs leveling bolts as needed.... also is the machine installed on a carpet floor??? if yes put a sheet of plywood under machine so it wont "bounce" on floor.
I would suggest that as it is a new unit , it is covered by warranty so why don't you call the service agent for a warranty inspection and fix rather than loosing your cool
there is nothing you can do while it is under warranty as any fix by other than authorized service persons will void the warranty
To save some money and effort, get an electric meter and check to wires to the water mixer to see if the electricity is coming to the mixer when you tell it to use the "hot".
Then, check the filter screen either in the hot water hose (found on either end) or the hot water connection in the mixing valve.
They can plug up with sediment preventing water flow.
Finally, you can change the mixing valve it you are sure the electricity is coming to it during the hot cycle, and you are sure the water is flowing freely out of the hot water hose.
God bless your efforts.
The drainhose could be kinked or clogged my brother had a small stocking in his.the drainhose could be too high no more than 94 inches
Low voltage can cause this no extension cord
To much suds too much detergent us a he High Efficiency detergent
Load unbalanced a single or bulky item may cause imbalance add more item or distribute the load
Model number would be helpful just so I know what type of Centennial washer we are talking about...
If it's what I think it is, Here is a diagnostic guide to get error codes that may help to figure out the problem: Maytag Centennial Washer Diagnostic Guide
My guess is the tub sensor...
you may want to put it through a diagnostics cycle and check for error codes... Maytag Centennial Washer Repair Guide
The tub sensor can cause the washer to act strangely like that. Also there are two mechanical styles of washer branded Maytag Centennial. The model number would help to know we are talking about the one I think we are talking about.
Hope that helps!
It definitely could be a clogged or bad pump. However, it's always a good idea to check for error codes before replacing a part...Especially expensive ones...
Hope it helps! Good luck!
I had the same problem. The lid lock assembly is broken.
If you are under warranty get it replaced. If not remove the top of the washer
and take out the switch assembly. The 4 wires going in are Yellow, Red, White,
and Blue. If you short the white and blue together, the washer thinks the lid
is closed. If you short the red white and blue together the washer thinks the
lid is closed and locked. The yellow is only there to activate the
Disconnecting the switch assembly will not work.
The electromagnet locks the lid and it also unlocks the lid. It is not a matter
of cutting the power to the magnet.
Installing 2 switches that connect the red white and blue is the best option if
you want to remove the lock.
The first switch should connect the white and blue. (LID CLOSED)
The second should connect the red to the white/blue connection. (LID LOCKED)
After that the lid should work.
Please post a follow-up if this works for you.
From the research I did on this problem, it was suggested the water level/ temperature control valve was bad. I bought a new one and replaced it today. That was the culprit. I looked on you tube for a video on how to replace and it was a five minute job. The part was $85 but can be found cheaper on the internet. While at the parts store a guy heard the part I was asking for and immediately asked if I had a Maytag. Apparently this is a common problem with this line of washers. I also found out that this problem is caused by opening the lid after the cycle is started. Word to the wise, gather all your laundry then start the cycle. If you have something left over, leave it for the next load unless you have a stack of money lying around.
The cycle dial runs like a clock and advances through each cycle and opens and closes each stage by contacts so I would say that the 1st cycle contact has burnt out which would prevent or in some cases a short will burn out the lot, usually from a power surge so if you don't have the knowledge i'm afraid it is the serviceman. But be assured that you make sure he makes that one of the first points of checking.
I had the same problem kinda. Does it start to agitate before it fills with water? Its supposed to fill with water, agitate, sense the amount of the load, then fill with the correct amount of water. If it agitates right away then you need a water level/ temperature control sensor. I replaced mine and no longer have the problem of wet clothes at the end of the cycle. The part number is w10248240. Look on you tube for a video on how to replace. The one I saw showed how to diagnose the sensor. The part cost about $90 and it took longer for me to get out my tools than replacing the part. This part goes bad by starting the machine then adding more clothes after it starts. You can also try blowing air down the tube from the back of the sensor. It didn't work for me but was suggested and blowing the air didn't cost anything.