Top 20 LG 37LC7D 37 in. LCD HDTV - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Good day!!!!That problem is usually cause of faulty capacitors on the power supply board..Just follow this instruction to fix your TV..1. Open the back cover of your TV.2. Look at the power supply board..Its normally connected to the power cord..3. After that,,try to look at the actual image of capacitors if it is bulged on the top so that you can easily determine the bad capacitors..4. After that,,try to replaced the bad capacitors using soldering iron and soldering lead..replaced the capacitors only with the same type ratings and value..5. Some of the capacitors not bulged so its better if have a capacitance meter..if no bulged capacitors that problem usually cause of faulty T-con board..

I see so many here with no sound/nopicture issues:ISSUES: 1. IF sound main fuse/s are good.2. If no power or standby check main fuse, standby power supply and any signsof damage you can see---burnt parts etc.3. almost all these sets the troubleshooting involves checking voltages on the main power board to narrow down theproblem.4. Be safe and if you do not know what you are doing don't open the set.Answers to issues:1. RE:fuses---if a blown fuse is found get a good replacement(not the genericones like Radio Shack). Many fuses are special even aside from amperage--Don'tput a higher rated amperage fuse in the set for any reason.2. RE: power supply in set: if total dead aside from main fuse the set uses astandby power supply that runs 7/24 and a main supply (some are combined andsome not.Here aside from checking fuses you want to examine all the filter caps on thepower/standby to see if any are puffed up or buldged up in some fashion--Iattach a photo of a good one---top should be silver metal and PERFECTLY flatand have no brown material coming out on top or bottom.What happens in the standby area is they use caps with too low a voltage rating(saves money) which causes them to fail in a year or two---the standby runs7/24 and the heat dries out the caps and they fail.3. Trouble shooting consists of the above and then at some point you have tobuy and try a board to see if it fixes it or not.4. Safety first--no TV set is worth getting injured or even killed over.lf set is opened at least look at power supply board for bad caps that are puffed up on top like these.

make sure cables are right because one could be loose or in wrong place

The set need service. Its back light inverter, and CCFL lamps should be checked. Sometimes, CCFL lamps might need replacement.

For more details, just type in the site name "Electro-help" to your search engines' search box [not in the address bar of your browser], and click search. It is an electronic equipments service help site.

All details you want are there. Note the position of hyphen in between words in site name, when you type it in. The site will appear as it is in web; subtitled as Service help to electronic home entertainment equipments.

Pull up older posts. You can get all details.

You can locate it either at the bottom part of first search page, or at the top of second page. Detailed descriptions are there to help you.

Sometimes, clicking on advertisements by the side and bottom of each post might help you to get details about the availability of spare parts; price etc:-

This sounds like a very common issue.If set is hard to turn on (takes several tries)but will eventually turn on hereis what my guess would be.Every set has a standby power supplythat is running 7/24 if the set is plugged in and it supplies voltage to theremote circuit that turn on the main power supply for the tv and hence turn theset on.This is an area where companies cut corners by using lower rated voltage caps.By this I mean Standby usually provides under 10 volts to trigger the seton----what they do is use filter caps rated at say 10 volts max in a circuitwith 9 volts (example)=with the standby on all the time the filter caps(electrolytic caps) dry out and fail.The problem usually begins where you have to turn set on or or two times andgradually gets worse--takes longer and more tries to get it to come up.Once on it will stay on until turned off for a period of time.The caps will begin to work better (regain some of thecapacitance) as they get hot--hence one it is on it will seem ok.The beauty of this problem is most of themhappen when set is a year or two old (no warranty) and all you have to do islook at the top to locate bad ones.They are generally black or blue and round and vary in --they have twoconnections each--a + for positive and a - for negative--not unlike a batterywhich in a way they are. The + and - are marked on top and bottom of most boards.They are easy to replace and not expensive parts.The tops are silverand metal looking with creases on top and if bad they will be puffed up ontop---tops must be perfectly flat with no brown material leaking top or bottom.If this is your problem once you id them (make a drawing) you can begin.Here is the critical part---on each cap is also marked the value like 220uf 10vdc---220 micro farad at 10 volts maximum.If you find for example 6 puffed up and all are 10 vdc replace them with thesame value capacitance (like the 220 uf) but go up to at least in this case(from 10 volts) to a 16 or higher rated voltage cap.The only issue is when you go up in voltage rated value the cap is larger sosometimes there is an issue of physical space for the replacement on the boardto fit them in.The reason they cheapen these sets in this way is if 10 caps and you make25,000 sets there is a considerable savings in parts cost. They do not care as long as it lasts past the usual one year parts warranty.I have taken the time to be long winded because this really sounds like it maybe the problem you have.See attached photo of a typical cap and if you have questions or need advicelet me know.bad caps in the set's power supply look like these--tops are not flat hence puffed up.

Thissounds like a very common issue.If set is hard to turn on (takes several tries)but will eventually turn on hereis what my guess would be.Every set has a standby power supplythat is running 7/24 if the set is plugged in and it supplies voltage to theremote circuit that turn on the main power supply for the tv and hence turn theset on.This is an area where companies cut corners by using lower rated voltage caps.By this I mean Standby usually provides under 10 volts to trigger the seton----what they do is use filter caps rated at say 10 volts max in a circuitwith 9 volts (example)=with the standby on all the time the filter caps(electrolytic caps) dry out and fail.The problem usually begins where you have to turn set on or or two times andgradually gets worse--takes longer and more tries to get it to come up.Once on it will stay on until turned off for a period of time.The caps will begin to work better (regain some of thecapacitance) as they get hot--hence one it is on it will seem ok.The beauty of this problem is most of themhappen when set is a year or two old (no warranty) and all you have to do islook at the top to locate bad ones.They are generally black or blue and round and vary in --they have twoconnections each--a + for positive and a - for negative--not unlike a batterywhich in a way they are. The + and - are marked on top and bottom of most boards.They are easy to replace and not expensive parts.The tops are silverand metal looking with creases on top and if bad they will be puffed up ontop---tops must be perfectly flat with no brown material leaking top or bottom.If this is your problem once you id them (make a drawing) you can begin.Here is the critical part---on each cap is also marked the value like 220uf 10vdc---220 micro farad at 10 volts maximum.If you find for example 6 puffed up and all are 10 vdc replace them with thesame value capacitance (like the 220 uf) but go up to at least in this case(from 10 volts) to a 16 or higher rated voltage cap.The only issue is when you go up in voltage rated value the cap is larger sosometimes there is an issue of physical space for the replacement on the boardto fit them in.The reason they cheapen these sets in this way is if 10 caps and you make25,000 sets there is a considerable savings in parts cost. They do not care as long as it lasts past the usual one year parts warranty.I have taken the time to be long winded because this really sounds like it maybe the problem you have.See attached photo of a typical cap and if you have questions or need advicelet me know

HelloDo check the infrared emission from your LG remote control. Just to to this link, where you can see details about it. If infrared emission is there, and still TV does not accept it, the infrared sensor inside your TV is faulty and should be repaced. Okhttp://www.fixya.com/support/r8733688-common_faults_in_infrared_type_remote

Hi,

I am sorry to hear regarding the trouble.

This is a common problem on this models.This is classic bad electrolytic capacitor trouble on the power board they leak or balloon up when they start to fail and from a cold start can be particularly troublesome.Unfortunately, this would not be a ' quick fix '. You need to dissemble the TV to repair the same.

There are 2 options :

1. Replace the bad caps on the power board. The caps would cost around $20 from radioshack or fry's.

2. Replace power supply board which would be expensive.

If you have electronics repair experience, revert and i would be able to provide the steps to repair it. If the TV is less than 5 years old, it would worth repair.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

I have to keep hitting the tv button on my cable remote and my tv finally comes on after about 5 mins.

See step 2:
LG: 1) Test the remote:The remote control puts out IR (InfraRed) signal that human eyes cannot see, to find out if the remote is sending out the signal or not you just point the remote at the digital camera's Lens (Digital Camera can detect IR), you should see flashing light on the camera's screen when any one of the remote button is pushed. If you do see the flashing on the camera, then the problem is in the TV IR receiver or the main logic board; more troubleshooting with scope will be needed to look at the signals.Parts: www.shopjimmy.com2) If the remote checked out OK, then look at the back of the TV for the "REMOTE INPUT", use a mini-phone plug and insert the plug into the remote input jack in and out a couple times to clean the switch contacts that select between the front IR receiver of the TV or the rear panel IR input jacks.See: http://www.fixya.com/support/t9056223-remote_doesn_39_t_work_all

Tries tv and the dish box unplug,replug it back an hour later for the tv to do a restting itself back to the factory setting and dish box to reboot and upgraded it software.This no signal problems should be fixed,not request another dish box for the replacement,because tv have no signal input bouncing around in the tv screen it is 90%-95% are broadcasting receiver boxes for tv incomming signal cable for tv signal problems.

It's most likely the four 10v/2200mf caps in the power supply near the primary transformer and if so they will look rather buldged on top. Better to ESR all of them for reliability. Simple fix for a shop and shouldn't cost too much...

The tv have a power supply board problems.That the board where the power a/c cord plug into it.Take the tv aparts and check the tv power supply board carefully for dying and leaking capacitors components parts to causes this delay picture to come on are alway bulges ups on to it tops or puffing onto it tops.U have all the tools and understanding basic electronic also can do basic soldering work too?Yes?All these dying and leaking capacitors parts are bulging up or puffing ups onto it tops all these capacitors parts are dying must be replace will solved and fixed the delay on problems.Or tries websites Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com buy a whole new tv refurbish power supply board for the replacement.

Hello
You can surlely connect this TV to your VCR, if the VCR has AV output with it at its rear side. Most VCRs will have this video out from it. Just connect this video out connection to your LGs audio video connection by using an audio video cable. This cable will be of three conductor type and can be bought from most of the electronic sparepart shops at your town. Choose a best quality one, when you buy it. After connectiing this cable with corresponding video IN sockets at the TV, switch ON both the devices and select AV2 or AV1 with the help of remote AV source button. The AV cable will have three conductors, a flat type cable haveing red, white and yellow colured RCA pint at both end. Coincide these colours to both TV and VCR when connecting it. That is all, and you can play your favourite video tapes by VCR.


The AV cable will look like this. OK

In most cases the standby light might blink with different rapidity to indicate a fault relevant to the processor. It is possible that most of these indicate that there are errors in the processing section . Since there is a possible short or leak in the circuit the output driver section can take in huge current to trip the SMPS or from advice from the micro processor. Remove the power plugs and make sure that high voltage sections are discharged of the potential stored in capacitors. Look for visible signs of leak or of busted capacitors. Look for bulged capacitors or damaged components- burnt or busted. Use a multimeter to check the continuity or shorting in components, if so detach from circuit and test . If the voltage builds up and the set power ON and then shuts up then the suspected section must be checked in detail.

http://focus.ti.com/docs/solution/folders/print/387.html

The processor must have the +5 voltage to the function properly , the +B and secondary voltages also must be checked to infer the fault. Trace with caution and in running through the signal path , circuit trail.

Check for tips to check the SMPS unit:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5826301-working_switch_mode_power_supplies

Thank you for using fixya.

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom (look for discoloration of the circuit board around the base of the capacitor) need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the unit will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and/or inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are SURE it's only doing supply output ripple filtering,
and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors, amplifiers, computer power supplies and motherboards, and other electronic equipment.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
A great parts source is Digi-Key, and you can order the parts online at www.digikey.com
They typically cost under a dollar a piece plus a flat shipping rate.
The parts usually arrive one business day later.
If you watch the third video, you will see that even someone with no soldering experience can perform these repairs as demonstrated by the woman in the video.

Good day!!!

that problem is not on the settings or adjustment...that is cause by bad inverter board..

please try to replaced it to fix your problem..

thank you for using fixya..

have a nice day!!!

First place to check will be the power supply module, need to verify if it is putting out staedy DC first. This can be due to simple thing such as bad caps.
Please read my guide for more details.
Service manual: www.elektrotanya.com

If you are going to DIY and have proper tools, electronics knowledge, and know safety precaution then please read on: Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide: http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals Failed TV and Monitors pictures: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague Parts: www.shopjimmy.com Parts: http://interliquidparts.com/ Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps. Or www.digikey.com, just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current and long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series. Please post back what you find.

Here is the link for the user manual, make sure all the leads are plugged in correctly in accordance with the user manual to your TV before you reprogram it.

http://static.fixya.com/Manuals/L/LG/37LC7D_37_n_078017CFC676EB17C0D2E6BF5E700917.pdf

Hope this helps.

Check coils L4010, 4011, 4012 located below the hdmi and just to the left of p400

Credit: http://www.repairworld.com/