20 Most Recent Frigidaire FRS23KF7AB Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 5 Questions & Answers

HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device,thermostat and main circuit board.

Check for two things. Look under the refrigerator and make sure the compressor fan is turning.

Second, check inside the freezer for proper operation of the fan that moves cool air throughout the freezer and refrigerator. If this fan is working, you can probably hear it. It should be behind an access plate in the freezer (near the top). Remove the plate and look at the fan. If it's not turning, you will have to replace the fan motor.

On your model the digital controls are the main controls called a Genesis Control. It has 2 part numbers for the same part. 241739701 or 1196804 Digital Control
When compressor and fans are not running that control is the most likely reason. Reading #4 may be a failure code but looking over the wiring diagram there is really not much more that could be the reason for a fault failure code of that board. Shows that you still have voltage to the board but because everything is controlled from there like measuring the freezer and refrigerator temperatures, defrost and switching the compressor and fans off and on I believe your problem is there. Sorry about the troubles, Sea Breeze

Your fix will likely involve replacing the fan motor. Until this is done, the freezer side will probably be okay; but very little cold air will be transferred over to the refrigerator side. The temperature in the refrigerator will likely get much too high.

Hopefully, there is an access panel where you can get to the fan. If so, it is not difficult to replace. The motor should be readily available at the appliance parts stores that do internet sales.

The door not closing:The lower hinge on each door may have a door closing cam. It raises the door up ¼ inch when opening and this assist in closing the door. If it’s wore out and doesn’t work the door may not seal and the gasket can be damaged. Watch the operation of the door to see if it rises up when opened.
Leave the door shut and let the magnetic gasket hold the door in place. Put something between the bottom of the door and the floor to hold it in case it slips.
Remove the bracket holding the pin and hinge assembly taking note of order of removal of parts. Slide new cams on. You probably need two.

The freezer door could be clicking since it has an electronic control associated with the dispenser.

Hi there,

Well problem seems in the its thermostat, isn't shutting down the compressor when the set temperature has been met. Check the temperature in the Freezer.... If it is less than 10 degrees F., turn the thermostat to "warmer". If the temp in the freezer is 10 degrees F., leave it alone and go to the temp control in the frig, which is a damper that controls cold air flow from the freezer compartment. Close this damper until your temperature in the upper part of the refrigerator is 38 to 40 degrees F. If these efforts don't shut down the compressor and correct your problem, then the answer is simple. Your thermostat is bad and needs to be replaced. It isn't expensive....

Good Luck!!

Thanks

http://www.frigidaire.com/manuals.aspx

You probably have an obstruction in filter compartment. you should remove filter and inspect o rings etc. or anything that could have clogged it up. The only other thing that could be the cause is a bad water valve. Side by sides have a double water valve. one for water ,one for ice maker. You can check this by having someone flip ice maker arm down so it calls for water and feel water valve as it runs and possibly hear it too. Hope this helps.

We've had a similar problem, possibly the same, with our LG in-door ice maker. Whether cubed ice or crushed ice is selected, it crushes the ice.

We found that there is a little lever on the inside of the door, on the lower right behind the ice bin, which freezes in the down position. This is a literal "freeze up", as a block of ice forms in the little well under this switch and eventually freezes the switch in place. Since the switch needs to go up to provide cubed,.. we only get crushed. On 3 separate occassions we've thawed and chipped out (carefully) this little ice dam and gotten cubed ice capability back for a few weeks. At which point it freezes again. I have no idea why water collects there in the first place.

You have a defrost problem.
Either the heater, bi-metal or timer(control) has gone out.
You can also check the connections on the defrost heater(behind the panel in the freezer section) to make sure the wire did not back out the connector. Frigidaire has had a few issues with the two plugs coming undone.

check temperature settings, or the thermal sensor need calibration or replacement,If you can able to check running current compare it to the tag located at the back of the unit or somewhere else. if the running current is lower than the chart, the system needs additional charge of refrigerant.

check the water line fron filter that continues on to water dispfrom icemaker, also a bad water disp solenoid or no pwr to water valve disp solenoid could be a problem,when you try to disp water can you hear a click from the solenoid operating to let water out?

The blower motor may be going out check to see if there is ice build up in the very back of the freezer as it is a common symptom of a bad blower.

u should call someone and bill the owner

Hi: Dumping the ice is the start of the ice making timer. Before you replace the ice maker... Set the freezer one setting colder. The ice maker wont make ice if the freezer is not at zero degrees F. Just because things are frozen in it dosn't mean it is at zero. This happens a lot in the summertime. After resetting the temp don't open the door every hour to see if it makes ice as you will just dump the cold air out. Listen for the ice to dump, give it 24hrs. I hope this helps, Jeff

hi
chek theses site,u will get your required answer
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/archive/index.php/f-37.html

http://www.homerepairforum.com/forum/appliances/2494-icemaker-not-filling-water.html
hope your prob will b solved
plz do let me kno
regards

HI K,

I suspect (with a 98% surety) that the power control board inside the dispenser has failed and that it was just a coincidence about the recent filter replacement. It's not a difficult repair, it's just a fairly pricey part. (see pic below)

You can purchase the board at a local appliance parts retailer, or order it online (just plug the part# into you preferred search engine) and shop for the best price.

Removing the dispenser panel isn't hard. Just roll the fridge out far enough so that you can UNPLUG THE UNIT PRIOR TO WORKING ON IT (little safety tip there...). Now remove the drip tray and the 3 screws there. Then lift the panel off of the clips and pull toward you gently. There ya go! Now you have access to all the components in there.

If you need more help, just let me know, OK? Cool.



SG

Possible leak in the sealed system. Make sure the technician pressurizes the system with nitrogen, changes drier, evacuates to 500 microns, then weighs in the correct charge.