Top 10 Frigidaire GLTF1670A Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

your problem may be because you generally use a 'cool' wash ie 30' or 40' Try a really HOT programme or two to see if this will remove the deposits that have built up What happens is that quite a lot of 'undisolved powder' tends to congregate inside the machine because of 'low temperature washes' Its a good idea now & then to use CALGON or some other descaling agent.

Mr CALGON please note my plug but it is good

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1094128
The internal brush can be used to replace brush in similar holder on certain Electrolux, Frigidaire, and Kenmore washers (at least motor # 131276200).

The Shipping bolts need to be removed from the back of the unit?? they go thru a plastic sleeve once the bolts are out you can twist the plastic peice to remove them completely I think there are 3 of them

Check the shocks on the bottom of the drum. I had the same problem and had to replace the shocks because they were broken in half.

I had the same problem. If you turn the dispenser so that the front faces away from you, look on the left side in the front. half way up there is a space with what looks like a plastic clip that might hold the dispenser to the front bezel. This actually holds the magnet, which can be installed without taking the dispenser apart. Be sure to install (pop in) the magnet vertically so that the long part of the magnet sits next to the right side of the dispenser opening (when viewed from the front) when the drawer is closed.

You will need to replace the tub rear shell/bearing assembly (part # 131525500).
To do this, practically the whole machine will need to come apart.
To remove the drive pulley, remove rear cabinet panel. Remove the pulley screw and pull back on the pulley (you may need to giggle it as you pull to remove it).
For the shock pins, grab the open end with a pair of vise-grips. On the "pointy" side of the pin press the tab in with your finger (if you can't push the tab in slide a 9/16" socket onto it) and pull the pin out with the vise-grips (twist back and forth slightly as you pull).

A qualified tech could replace the rear shell/bearing in about 1.5 - 2 hrs. I can certainly give you more help if you need it, let me know.
Good luck!

i would think the bearing

There are 2 shock absorbers/springs attached to the drum. If one of them breaks it will cause a loud banging noise when you wash heavy loads. This is an easy fix. The part is about $22.00 and it is accessed throught the front bottom panel.

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description of " Makes loud noise on final spin cycle", My first suspicion would be a worn tub bearing.

The other possibilities are the suspension shock absorbers have broken, or debris in the drain pump...hopefully. That is best case scenario.

**unplug the unit from the wall or turn off the breaker before proceeding...safety first**

The first place to start is to remove the access panel at the bottom. there will be two hex head 1/4" screws...one on each side.

example...


Once the access panel is removed, look for the shock absorbers, 1 on each side of the tub for a total of 2.

example...


Your may differ in appearance then my picture if original and be plastic cylinder shapes...but serve the same function. They've revised them since yours was built, New part # 134564200.

If they are intact, good...but bad.

Next, check the pump. This will require some towels, a shallow pan or even better, a wet dry shop-vac.

example...


Remove the boot to the tub from the back and the two hex head/philips head 5/16" screws holding the pump to the base.

example...




The next ( and worse ) possibility is as I alluded to the main tub bearing.

You can check this by way of opening the door and grabbing the inner basket rim and moving up and down to feel for play...there should be zero play or zero tolerance in this bearing.

You can also remove the rear panel and visually inspect it as well. First, look for signs of leakage around the center bearing.

Second, grab the large pulley and try and move it back and forth or spin it with the belt off to listen for a grinding noise.

If it is indeed worn it will require practically the complete tub assembly ( rear wall with bearing and inner basket )...that is the least expensive and easiest fix at around $400 for the entire assembly.

example...


You can opt to change just the rear wall and bearing with the basket in separate pieces, but it comes in around $370 and still leaves you with pulling the old one apart to re-use the front shell.

Either way this is a fairly involved repair and even for an experienced tech like myself can take 60 - 90mins. I'd guess it would take one who's never done it all day.

Let me know what you find and I'll do what I can to assist you.

Good luck. Thank you for choosing FixYa. Please take a moment to rate the info I provided here for you.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. Since the suspension is ok and it is level, check your drive motor and spin bearing. Usually, these are the trouble parts when loud noises are associated with the spinning cycle. Your drive motor controls the spinning. Since the noise is during spinning, that is probably where your problem lies.