20 Most Recent Frigidaire GLET1031 Top Load Stacked Washer / Dryer Questions & Answers

Leslea, You might check your lid switch for the washer. It sounds like the controls are thinking the lid is still up and that will normally not allow the agitation and spin to work properly.

check ur inlet water valve with a meter for continuity

Normally there are 2 brackets joining the two machines at at the back that have to be removed. Then if there looks like a collor around the join of the two machines then you need to lift the top machine by a few inches to remove it from the machine.

There were two (2) small screws at the very bottom of the front.

• Remove them securing the dryer front access panel to the dryer cabinet.
• Lift the panel until the tabs can be disengaged from the cabinet.
• Remove the panel and set aside.

Installation Manual (see page 8) ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Webster/131661700p1-8.pdf Owner's Guide ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Webster/131781700ceen.pdf Operating Instructions ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Webster/131919500e.pdf Cutout Dimensions http://www.frigidaire.com/products/images/documents/cutout_dimensions/lc.pdf Energy Guide http://www.frigidaire.com/products/images/documents/energy_guides/134089300-USA.pdf

Check the bearing behind the drum assembly, the part against the rear wall is probably worn so low there is metal to metal contact, if so replace bearing.....

There are 2 screws on the bottom/front of the cover to the washer. Remove the screws. Near the top/front of the cover is a seam; insert something flat in the seam (such as a screw driver blade, covered as to not scratch the finish)and pry the cover downward. This worked for me.

Hello,

WHat ya need to check is for proper power going to the entire unit it sounds as if either a breaker is off or their is burnt/broken wire from the main power connection.

All symptons listed i suppose occured suddendly?? and to me its a lack of proper electrical power that is causing all of them.


GENE

if it is an intermitent problem you more then likely have a vac hose that is stretched out. inside the control panel there is a rubber hose that connects your water level pressure switch to the bell housing on the side of the washer tub. if you pull the hose off the switch and cut the hose back 1/4 to 1/2 inch and reconnect it this should saolve your problem. Make sure your hose is long enough to easily reach the switch once it's been cut. on some washers there is just enough hose to reach and if you cut it, it won't be long enough or can pull off while the machine is washing

Hi,

Welcome to FixYa.

According to your model number, there will be a safety thermo. on the heater housing ( at the top of the shroud ) part # 3204267

example...


plus a two piece thermo., but really separate components located below the exhaust/blower housing. part #`s 131658100, example 1)


and 3204307, example 2)...the image has two but that is just showing front & back.


Hope that helps you out. Let me know how you make out or if anything is not clear.

Thank you for choosing FixYa.

Good luck.

Macmarkus

Unplug unit! Remove top screws and pull off top lid of dryer. Heater terminals should be at top right. Use ohm meter to check resistance. If ohms won't display, then your heater unit probably has an open circuit. For instance, my GLET1031 has a reading of 12.5 ohms.

The top panel and the front panel need to be removed in order to put a new replacement belt. The top panel is held on to the front panel by securing clips. Use a putty knife to pry and release the clips as shown. Once released, raise the top panel to the rear of the dryer.



Remove the screws securing the front panel to the cabinet then pull the top of the panel and lift it off. Disconnect the door switch from the front panel.

Remove the rear access panel then release the belt from the idler pulley and the motor pulley. Take the belt out to the front of the dryer then wrap the new belt around the drum in alignment with the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Refer to the diagram below for the belt installation on the motor pulley and the idler pulley.

Hello. You probably have a frozen pulley wheel in the machine which becomes a problem when the machine starts agitating. This is a difficult and complicated repair so unless you are very handy I recommend leaving this to the pros. That said, if your machine is over 5 years old, it is probably more cost effective to replace it rather than repair it. Joe

You have a worn part, I don't know what your manufacture has chosen to call it. This part is used to control the agitation and spin balance of your washer. It's not that easy of a part to change, you have to take the tub out in order to access it. If it's not replaced your problem will continue to get worse until completely ruins your washer. As I recall it cost us between $100 and $150 to have it replaced on our washer.

Hi, in regard's to replacing those pump's there is just the 2 screws to the base, the wire harness/connection and then the hoses. Aside from that just be sure you actually need a pump, the most common problem with those pump's "not pumping" is debris or a foreign object obstructing the impeller or outlet port. Also make sure the connection is secure and the hoses/clamps are tight when you install the new pump. Hope that help's answer your question or concern. Good luck and thank you for visiting "fixya" today. Let me know if I can assist you further and please allow yourself a second to rate or comment on the information provided for you here at "fixya". Macmarkus :)

Hi Charlie in Philly,

Yes it is normal to answer your question in short. However, since it may not be how your old machine operated or something you are not accustomed to, I'll explain in brief.

Most automatic washer made today have a "thermistor" built into the fill valve, or in series with the fill line from the valve. As a result you may notice either the cold or hot pulsing on and off, and this is done as the thermistor senses the water temperature to attain the desired water for the selected cycle. It also makes the washer more energy efficient and more well balanced from a functional stand point, i.e. it will only call for the desired amount of hot water as opposed to the older washer's which would simply fill at the rate at which the home water supply could provide, whether hot/warm or cold selected.

Hope this answer's your question and enlighten's you to the "why" as well.

Thank you for visiting "fixya" today. If you found this solution helpful please take a second and rate it or comment on the expert reply.

Let me know if I can assist you further and good luck with your new washer.

macmarkus :)

Hi,

Having 220 volts and getting 220 volts will be 2 different things, you may have melted a wire off the back of the dryer, have you removed the cover where the wires hook up and checked there for 220 volts.

IF the wires were not installed tightly they would overheat and melt. Other than this, It could be a Thermal Fuse.On Most Models, when you remove the Complete Back Cover on the dryer, you could see a Thermal Fuse.

Generic Picture is :-





Let me know, if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5159735

You can order part number 32 from here.

The part number of your original drain hose is 134049200. There is an 8 ft corrugated drain hose with a part number SSD8 and has a universal end which you can cut to fit, and is approximately 96 inches long. hope this helps.

Thanks

Buzzer mounted to back of control panel.

**UNPLUG POWER BEFORE REMOVING CONTROL PANEL OR TOUCHING -ANYTHING-!**

Located on left side of control panel, bolted to back. Small rectangular device with two connections and no associated button or dial.

Remove the panel and disconnect one of the leads. Fold the connector back against its wire, carefully and securely tape the connector with electrical tape so it cannot touch anything. Also tape the connector on the buzzer that you removed the wire from.

Re-assemble the control panel.

As with anything mechanical, hours of frustration trying to take something apart can be avoided by taking a few minutes at the beginning to look closely at how it is assembled.