Top 20 Sennheiser CX 400 Headphones - Page 4 Questions & Answers

First of all if the right side is working the wireless is working alright and the fault is in the processing section, the left audio preamplifier , the left side power amplifier and the left side earpiece.

So you might have to test with a audio signal to confirm from the preamplifier, the low-power amplifier driver for the earpiece and the earpiece.
Once this is confirmed the focus can be the wireless section, possible fault in the receiving section.
The use a a multimeter to check and knowledge of electronic circuits is necessary to check around this section. Please check and respond.

The advice/tip given is with the belief that you are competent. You must attempt to do it yourself only if you are technically/logically able, especially when dealing with delicate devices, damaging while trying to open, Probing electrical/electronic circuits with high voltage or delicate components. Since the advice given by me is with the inputs provided and not based on a visual inspection, there can be further reviews required in some cases.

When a manufacturing defect is present the unit always fails in the first weeks of use. This is your case, and because it's still in the warranty you should return it and have it replaced.

You can get the manual below. The tr110 and the rs110 are the same unit.

http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i3d/01/A/man-migrate/MANUAL000072257.pdf

Hi,

You're local Sennheiser dealer can fix it, no problem.
The repair takes a half an hour.

Regards,
Gerard

You should be able to get a new plug from an electronics store. When you have got it cut off the old one. Carefully remove the insulation from the end of the cable to reveal the wires. There will be two coloured wires and two earth wires. With a stanley knife open up the old plug. This will show you where the wires go on your new plug. You will have to solder them on to the new plug. If for some reason you can't work out which of the two coloured wires go on which terminal. Then you will have to try to identify by sound the right and left channels. The earths go together on the largest metal tag.

There is a small arrow on the plastic. Rotate the ear pad counter clockwise.

Can you try this mic somewhere else?
Does it require phantom power?

Add a DI box to clean up/boost the signal of that mic. If all the channels are doing this, get a bigger (more watts) amp so that you have more headroom.

push it in!!! or is it the wrong size?? should be 3.5mm

Hello Howard. What you are running into is the fact there are three different kinds of microphones, some powered and some not.
Ribbon which has a ribbon in it, tube which needs to be warmed up, and condenser/ dynamic which may or may not need an extra 48 volts to run it (called Phantom Power). They have ranges like Omni, directional, figure 8, and cardioid.

Add to that the special category of microphones just for computers. Take your new headset to a radio shack store and have them show you the options you have to make your set up work. good luck with it.

I don't know if this is what you want but the link is http://www.draware.dk/fileadmin/Sensatronics/EM1/manual_model_em1.pdf

Check the 1/4' stereo phone plug for broken wires if you can unscrew the shield. If that is not the problem, you will need to replace the plug and the cable up to the left can. I say left because there is another cable from the top of the left can to the right can carrying the right signal. You said left was mostly cutting out so that connecting cable is likely fine. Slip the foam ear pad off the left can and see if there are screws holding the speaker plate to the cup. Inside of the cup there should be a place where the main cord meets up with the other cord. Make note of the connections and the colors of the wires. You should be able to save the cable grommet by cutting the cable close to it and pulling the wiring out of the insulator and then peeling the insulator tubing out. The rest is parts, soldering and careful, patient work. Remember to solder in a ventilated area.

It's been a while since you posted this, Were you able to get the problem solved? If you are in the NY metro area, I have an extra T6-9 and I could test to verify if the proble is with the headset or the Freesound unit.

Sounds like the beginnings of a rubbing voice coil in your MX160. Verify this by trying another set of headphones on your amplifier/MP3 player/etc. If the "scratching" sound disappears then your music source is not the fault. PLEASE REMEMBER...never turn music source volumes up past 60-65% (think of 1:00-1:30 on a clock face). If these setting are not loud enough, use a booster or move up to a unit with more audio output power. On a larger scale...How did I blow my 100 watt speakers with a 50 watt amp? It's easy....clip (overdrive) your amp....Glen

of course, yes

Are you using the charging cables that came with it? That is a type C. Are you securely attaching the charging cable? A loose connection would keep the battery from charging. If you had a low battery, you would see a red light. That you have no light at all suggests there is no charge left in the battery. I'm not sure the reset will work with no charge which is why you ought to check the cables first. But turn it off and then hold down the Multifunction button for 10 seconds to reset it. Then turn it back on and see what happens. If you can, test the charging cable on aother device. If you have another type C charging cable, try it, just to eliminate a bad cable. If these suggestions don't work, you may try the manufacturer's customer support.

Question edited for clarity, 'make model (what it is)'. The images show the rear connections. It looks like 2 x 1/2" jacks and a multi-pin connector for a sound mixer. I have never heard this term before? Passive stage monitor. Uses speakon connection. It is this

Speakon connector

Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org > wiki > Speakon_connector Speakon connectors arrange their contacts in two concentric rings, with the inner contacts named +1, +2, etc. and the outer contacts connectors (in the four- ... The company has disowned it! https://harbingerproaudio.com/manuals/

Harbinger HX121M 12" Stage Monitor

Musician's Friend https://www.musiciansfriend.com > pro-audio > harbinge... 12" loudspeaker featuring a 2.5" high-temperature, precision edge-wound polyamide voice coil and an 80 oz. vented magnet structure.

Harbinger HX 121m Passive monitor

Reverb https://reverb.com > Pro Audio > Speakers > Harbinger Passive stage monitor. Uses speakon connection. ..

Set Time Hours and Minutes: Press Time/12/24 and Alarm1/ON/OFF buttons at the same time for two seconds and it will start to blink the hour. Press and hold the button for a fast setting or tap it briefly to increase the setting by one hour. Now set the minutes with time (press and hold) and min. How do I set the Audiosonic clock? Set current time Press and hold the time button and simultaneously press the hour to set the hours in 24-hour mode .

Probably nowhere as this is an Amazon / eBay special so made in China. You should be able to go to Windows Settings, - Hardware and tell Winderz to find a compatible driver. https://www.google.com/search?q=VIBE+SOUND+USB+Turntable+Model+VS-2001-USBT+drivers ..

The F2100 remote is not explicitly listed as compatible with the AerialBox T2100, I recommend using the remote that came with your AerialBox T2100 for optimal functionality. If you have any specific compatibility concerns, I suggest reaching out to Dish TV customer support for further assistance.