Top 10 Kenmore Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Your fridge has a dual solenoid water valve - one side controls the water flow to the dispenser, the other to the ice maker. It's possible that one side burned out while the other is still good.

Here's a photo of what it looks like:



Here's a link to the replacement part:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Kenmore-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/218658000/0046/253/Model-25358682890/0582/0165000?keySuffixId=NA&productTypeId=x&searchModelNumber=25358682890&subCompDesc=Icemaker&brandDesc=KENMORE&modelDesc=Side-by-Side&blt=11

Before replacing the part, make sure the solenoid is in fact, bad. Get a voltmeter, and touch the probes to the electrical contacts on the solenoid, like so:

If the meter barely moves, the solenoid is bad.

If both solenoids test out OK, the other possibility is that the water supply line is kinked or clogged. Also, if your water dispenser has a filter (also on the back of the fridge), it might be clogged. My money's on the solenoid, though.

Good luck, and if this helps, please my answer!
Also, thanks to Zenzoidman for the pics.

have you checked the inflow tube to see if it's iced up? if your icemaker isn't filling with water and your getting water in the dispenser your feeder tube is probably frozen

Since the water goes through the same path except the line from the dual valve solenoid to ice maker, it could just be residue in the line. Suggest you dump the ice for the first 24 hours and then check it. There just isn't a lot could cause the problem you describe.

A refridgerator will roll forward and back you cant lock the wheels. If the floor slants that much you can take little peices of wood or carboard to place in front of the wheels so they dont roll.If you have anymore questions please comment me back so I can further assist.

You need to remember, heat rises. If something is out of whack in your refrigerator and it's not able to remove heat properly, the heat it can't remove will rise to the top. I'll list a few things to look at.

1. Do you have ice build up that you can see on the back panel inside your refrigerator? If you do, you'll need to check your defrost cycle and circulation fan.

2. Check the fan by putting your hand by the upper holes on your back panel in the refrigerator. This can be problematic because depending on the age of the refrigerator, the fan might turn off when you open the doors.

3. Check the door seal for breaks, tears, or any leaks. Phycometric laws dictate that warm transfers to cold. So if you have any gap In the seal, warm air will migrate to cold air.

One definitive way to check if it is a defrost issue is to take everything out that might spoil and put in ice chests, unplug the unit, and open the doors for 8 hours to let any ice melt. Plug it back in and if it works properly, you have a defrost issue

Sounds like a probe fault. Probably waterlogged.

might need gas

Can you locate your model number inside the fresh food section around door frame? I believe you have the ice maker with the electronic eye and sounds like you need to follow these instructions so the ice maker works again. If I am wrong then please correct me by posting your model number that should look like this example=> 321.234567 Click Here=> Whirlpool Ice Maker Infrared Electronic Eye Technical Information I am here if you need to ask questions, Sea Breeze

Do the old 'KISS" thing first (keep it simple ......thing). Chances are that there are tiny calcium deposits in the ice tray which makes an ice cube stick in the tray. If one ice cube sticks, the water will overflow as it needs all the trays empty for the filling. The water will drip down into the freezer area causing chunky ice and stalagmites. The calcium deposits are very teeny in size but will hang up an ice cube from dropping. If more than one ice cube (basically all the ice cubes) didn't drop then the heater in that unit that initially gets the ice cubes to drop could be bad.

I've taken the ice cube assembly out and used vinegar with baking soda to dissolve the calcium and that worked. I left it in for a couple of days. "Do NOT" use anything like a knife or whatever to scrape the bottom of the tray as it will destroy the finish and keep the ice cubes sticking.

When I had the warranty service come out, the technician explained what happened to the tray (calcium). He replaced the tray but the next time it happened I used the vinegar and baking soda. I eventually bought a new tray for 1/2 the price on the internet when the problem happened later on in life.

The schematic should be under the kick plate grill. Remove grill and should either be in the grille or behind. Defrost thermostat is located on top of the evaporator behind back panel inside freezer

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/keith_6cb11225ab437567

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