20 Most Recent Maytag Bravos 7.0 Cu. Ft. Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity and accurate names of parts. Question moved from Cars and Trucks to Maytag Bravos. Sometimes you will find a circuit diagram in a plastic bag hidden in the machine somewhere.. They are not normally available online. The video should show you the replacement of all your parts. Pause to see the wiring. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHWWTrL3VjI https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+bravos+medb835dc4+service+manual ..

maytag bravos dryer codes error c0?

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Here is one test. Start the dryer on an air dry only cycle (no heat, air fluff) after about 30 seconds open the dryer to see if there is any heat. If so, your heating element is grounded and you will need a new heat element.

Hello Shawn. Glad to see you got it sorted out. Maybe you place a "how to.." tip for a wider audience. PS- while reading your added comment / update re the fix, the 'comment' block suddenly vanished as I exited from it! Not sure what happened there.. ;[ Maybe try retyping it? Regards, Clive.

Pull the back of the dryer off and see if the thermal fuse near the dryer tumbler motor is blown.

There is a safety fuse that blows and nothing will work. Check that your venting is clear and replace. If you don't know which one to replace call a technician. It's 240v you don't want to mess around.

Type Maytag Bravos 7.0 dryer cycle problem into YouTube and see if the video comes up, thanks!

Type Maytag Bravos door problem into YouTube and see if the video comes up, thanks!

If the vent output is clear and lint trap is clear, then there are a couple of more hidden spots that air can get backed up. First off, unplug the dryer before doing any of this. There's a lot of current to that plug, and getting killed is a really bad way to detect a bad wire or to identify where the heater coil inlet is.

1. Inlet to the heater area. Laundry rooms have lint in them. All the air that gets blown out the back has to come from somewhere. make sure you don't have a clump o dust bunnies on another section of the rear panel.
2. The blower motor itself. The lint filter can't get everything. The first time I took the back off my old Kenmore and opened up that area after the lint trap, it was like looking at a chalkboard eraser. Solid lint. The fins in the blower were packed tight with more lint. Cleaned it all out, and it ran better than it had in years.
3. If the wall/floor connector for the vent hose goes anywhere but straight through the wall to outside, look down the hose and clear what you can, then go outside to the outlet and make sure it's not blocked, jammed, frozen shut, or what have you. Clean what you can from that end too. Hope this helps!

Good Luck!

Maybe the latch is in a closed position already, unlatch it and try again.

Hi,There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not TurningDryer Repair - The dryer will not startheatman101

Annie, If your dryer is less than a year old, it is still under warranty and I would recommend calling wherever you purchased the dryer and find out how they handle warranty claims.

She's asking "HOW DO I TURN IT OFF" retards! You are all incapable of reading!

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs Hey GOD IS GOOD !!!!

Check for clogged or kinked vent line and then after that it could be the blower wheel. But need a model to answer more precisely

Test your Thermal Fuse

I would do a Puddle test on the Lint Screen. A Puddle Test is pour a handful of water onto the Lint Screen. If it Puddles Wash it out with Dish Soap and rinse with Hot Water, See we use Fabric Softener Sheets the Oils from the Sheets clog the little tiny holes an it's hard for the air to flow thru it, This should be done every 6 Months just maybe it's giving it a False reading, also maybe check the Door Gasket

Do you have heat in the Dryer still? If not and you have the smell the heating element probably blew a fuses due to lint build up. or the heating element itself is bad.