Reset usually if it has it will be in owner manual---if you want to look in the factory service manual---google the model number "service manual" to see if you can find it there---9 of 10 times this answer is in the 'OWNER'S MANUAL" ---IF in doubt read that first.
I see so many here with no sound/nopicture issues:
1. IF sound main fuse/s are good. 2. If no power or standby check main fuse, standby power supply and any signsof damage you can see---burnt parts etc. 3. almost all these sets the troubleshooting involves checking voltages on the main power board to narrow down theproblem. 4. Be safe and if you do not know what you are doing don't open the set.
Answers to issues:
1. RE:fuses---if a blown fuse is found get a good replacement(not the genericones like Radio Shack). Many fuses are special even aside from amperage--Don'tput a higher rated amperage fuse in the set for any reason.
2. RE: power supply in set: if total dead aside from main fuse the set uses astandby power supply that runs 7/24 and a main supply (some are combined andsome not.
Here aside from checking fuses you want to examine all the filter caps on thepower/standby to see if any are puffed up or buldged up in some fashion--Iattach a photo of a good one---top should be silver metal and PERFECTLY flatand have no brown material coming out on top or bottom.
What happens in the standby area is they use caps with too low a voltage rating(saves money) which causes them to fail in a year or two---the standby runs7/24 and the heat dries out the caps and they fail.
3. Trouble shooting consists of the above and then at some point you have tobuy and try a board to see if it fixes it or not.
4. Safety first--no TV set is worth getting injured or even killed over.
Look for puffed up caps on the power supply board like these.
hello! the problem is display panel connectors or panel itself(bad case). To solve it, you must disassemble the set till the point, when you will be able to see t-con(display controller). It, usually have metal shield over it. you need to unscrew those tiny screws, may be remove sticking foil too. After you see the board itself, there are 1 or more flat ribbon cables connecting t-con board to display panel itself. Plugs have plastic locking, fragile! First, unlock the left side(opposite to your view) and pull cable out, then carefully reconnect it. If more, than one, repeat the procedure. got working? assemble everything back. Still have the problem: try to do the same with the other end of the ribbon(s). those, what connect display's boards. You may have insufficient space to reach plug's locks. Invent something to accomplish the task: use tweezers or metal picks. Try not to break anything. In most cases this problem caused by dust/dirt accumulation at those connectors. If nothing helps, I've seen the panels itself doing that. that's the end of DIY project, may be TV itself, unless you purchased extended replacement plan. cost of the panel will void any reasonable repair! good luck, thanks, Alex.
First of all, thank you for consulting Fixya.com regarding on your LCD TV problem.
The symptoms you've described is one of the common problem not only on LCD TV's but almost all types of TV's including the LED, Plasma, DLP, and CRT. This is caused by faulty (leaky/dried) electrolytic capacitor in the power supply board. Leaky/dried electrolytic capacitor will dropped the normal operating output voltage of the power supply board and will disable the unit. In the first stage of the symptoms, warm-up will make itself stable like leaving it plugged to the outlet, wait a few minutes/hour, hitting the power button key several times before it will power up but the symptoms will get worst as time goes by, the unit will not react at all once the leaky/dried electrolytic capacitor is totally faulty.
Electrolytic capacitor act like a power reservoir, the unit will work fine once the capacitor reach(charged) to minimum power requirements needed by the circuitry that's why you need it to warm-up (if the capacitor is partially faulty) or else the circuitry will not work.
Leaky electrolytic capacitor has a physical indication of fault like bulged, dome at the top and can be easily identify through visual inspection. See sample picture below.
Open the back cover of your TV and then inspect the power supply board (this is where the power cord's directly connected). Once you found capacitor with bulged or dome at the top, replaced it with same capacitance and working voltage that is printed on its body. Watch the video below for more info on electrolytic capacitor.
Dried electrolytic capacitor has no physical indication of fault. You must have a capacitor checker/tester to determine its condition.
If you don't have necessary tools and test instrument and can't troubleshoot the unit yourself, I would advice you to replaced the entire power supply board. It is more convenient if you are going to DIY because no troubleshooting and soldering required. All you have to do is to unplug the TV from the outlet overnight, take off the rear cover, pull-out all connectors to the power supply board, unscrew the board, put in the new board, re-insert the connectors and you can now try the unit.
You may obtain the board online, try to check the board on ebay.com or shopjimmy.com. Just type TV's model no. on their search engine to view the available boards. The power supply board has a part no. that is printed on the board itself, I would advice you to check it to ensure you will get the exact replacement online.
Watch the video below for more info regarding on the symptoms you've encountered right now.
Sound very much like a faulty LCD controller problem. However I would like to be sure before I suggest replacing any parts. If you can just take a picture of it and upload it here that would help me confirm the source of the problem. While posting your comment click on the camera button on the lower right corner of this text box, browse for the image on your hard-drive and upload it.
I'm sorry that the TV is displaying vertical lines on the screen. Please follow the troubleshooting steps and check the operation:
Please make sure that the connections are secure and proper.
Try connecting a different video source like DVD player or VCR and check the operation. If it works with another device, the issue might be with the input device currently.
Also try connecting the device to a different port in the TV if no other devices are available.
If the issue persists, try with a different cable.
Perform a power resetting and check the operation. To perform the power resetting, unplug the TV from wall outlet for more than 2 minutes and then reconnect it.
If the issue persists, after all above troubleshooting steps, service may be required. You can click hear to setup a service for the TV.
Also it would be good if you can come back with the model # of the TV to check whether the issue can be resolved with a firmware update.
Thanks for understanding. Please let me know if you require any clarifications/additional help.
Sir the problem of your unit is in the power supply it has already a bulging capacitor this bad capacitor is producing a low and unfiltered dc output.
If you see this bad capacitor replace it with same type and also try to observe the solder part of your pcb if there is a cold solder or loosed solder.
If you see this resolder it but be sure not to connect separated pins if accidentally solder may caused much damage to the unit. Note before doing this be sure to unplug the unit. Good day and best regards.
It's the problem of overheating in the power supply board of the TV.on the power supply board of the TV there are few capacitors and IC.any of this IC is got short or may be weak.so due to this when you start the TV the current passes from electric outlet to the power supply board of TV.but when the current passes from that weak/faulty part at that time current gets stopped or slow and the board overheats and TV shuts off. this is a common problem faced by many other users too.the possible option to solve this issue is to check the power supply board by a meter and continuity tester and replace the faulty component on the board which is short due to which power supply board is getting overheated.its bit technical job but yes its not at all a costly repair to do or get it done by the technician. for required parts it can be easily available from local electronic hardware shop.
The tv power supply board it is the causes and the problems.That the board where the tv power a/c cord plug into it.Tries websites like Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a whole new refurbish power supply board for the replacement.
I had the same problem with a 32HL67. (Your TV may use many of the same parts.) The TV would not come on, and the only way to stop the yellow blinking light was to pull the power.
Took the TV to a local repair shop, and we jointly decided the problem was either the power supply or the main video board (seine board). We decided to try the video board first. Ordered board PEO249A, part number V28A000320A1 from www.discount-merchant.com (49.95 plus shipping) and had it installed last week. This solved the problem. However, a new problem showed up. The TV now will not scan over the air for digital stations. This is not really critical since I use DirecTV; however, it is good to be able to get the locals over the air.
When the video board was replaced, we discovered that the original board in my TV was PEO361A, part number V28A00043601. This is Toshiba part 75007222. (This board is also available at the same vendor for the same price.) This difference in parts may be the reason my TV now will not scan for digital stations. It appears that replacing the video board with either of these new boards will likely solve the blinking yellow light problem; however, if you use the PEO249A, you may lose the ability to scan for stations. On the other hand, there may be an inherent problem in the PEO361A which may be causing the blinking yellow light problem. Who can say?