20 Most Recent Jl Audio E1200 Car Audio Amplifier Questions & Answers

It is a plug located to the left of the RCA inputs on the opposite end of the amp where the power and speaker outputs are. You will need a plug with pigtails (most likely available from JL AudioCheckout this link for a picture.:http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=2789&picture_id=111453

Could be many reasons, Start from the top, disconnect all wires from your amp, then connect ground first, then live, power up amp and see if amp is on. then connect remote, then test, then speaker wires then test, doing this can rule out bad connections and usually find were your fault lies. dissconnect live from battery first before doing this, or if you have an inline fuse on your live check and remove that first.

Sounds like you are showing too low of an impedance load to the amp. The E1200 is only stable as low as 2 ohms. If your subs are wired to show lower than a 2 ohm load then the amp will go into protection mode as the volume or gains are turned up

its a good idea get vom and start from power ant coming from head unit ussually 13.80 volts to the trigger of amp also check battery power to be present on power terminal (13 volts)positive. also getting a good ground connection , again digital or analog volmiter get the difference.

there is short circuit check the transformer and big capasitor for tanrsformer

Definately. Just set your amplifier so that you dont damage either. In actual fact you are more likely to damage the amp before you mess up the speaker!

is it wired wright and if it is what gauge wire are you using let me know

what is the impedance of your woofers it will be a number with an Omega symbol. Looks like a horseshoe next to your woofer . Like this JL Audio 10W1v3 8ohm. Please, Please tell me you bought 8 ohm woofers JR?? Because if not, it ain't gunna happen.. If you did buy 8 ohm woofers than wire them in parrellel which means all the +'s together and all the -'s together giving you a final impedance of 2 ohms and your amp will think your a car audio GOD... But if not be ready to smell plastic burning where your amp used to be.... let me know i can walk you thru the wiring but let me know what you have. ok. mark

its probably wires touchin or the ground not connected well with fat enough wire. i would try to rewire and do everything all over again because one wire or fuse is messing up i had t he same probelm. its the red light on the amp is ur amp shut off or ur warning light?

Try disconnecting the power supply and ground completely and reconnecting it starting with the ground then power and then the remote lead- Ihad a kenwood that was picky like that and if you hooked it up in the wrong sequence it wouldnt go -but once i figured that out- i never had a problem with it again-till someone stole it-.haha good luck-why did you pull the fuse to bridge your amp?thats odd-any particular reason?

your audio wires from the head unit have been pinched or discontected or the head unit is not putting out a signal

Protection mode; follow this link to get a manual for the amplifier: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=439

Below information is from the manual:

Status Indicator Lights / Protection Circuitry
There are three status indicator lights on the top of the amplifier. These are as follows:1) "Power" (Green): lights to indicate that the amplifier is turned on and operating normally.
2) "Thermal" (Red): lights to indicate that the amplifier has exceeded its safe operating temperature, putting the amplifier into a self-protection mode, which reduces the power output of the amplifier. The red light will shut off and the amplifier will return to normal, full-power operating mode if the heat sink temperature drops back to a safe level.
3) "Low ω" (Amber): lights to indicate that the impedance of the speaker load connected to the amplifier is lower than the optimum impedance load range for the amplifier. When this light is on, a protection circuit engages and reduces the power output of the amplifier. The amber indicator will also light when a short-circuit is detected in the speaker wiring (this can be a short between the positive and negative speaker wires or between either speaker wire and the vehicle chassis).
There is only one condition that will shut down an undamaged 500/1v2 completely… If battery voltage drops below 10 volts, the entire amplifier will shut itself off. The green "Power" indicator on the top of the amplifier will turn off when this occurs. The amplifier will turn back on when voltage climbs back above 10 volts. This may happen in a rapid cycle when bass-heavy program material causes a weak charging system to dip below 10 volts momentarily. If this is happening in your system, have your charging system inspected to make sure it is working properly.
For information on troubleshooting this amplifier, refer to Appendix E (page 21).

check your groud make sure theres contact and check your rca's

for that amp u need a compasitor to mantain the amps the amp draws the amp is being choked when the car is off and when its running its killing the cars charging system

yes a 1200 watt amp will do the trick.. the problem would be in the box the 12w3v2 sub needs a good size box and you should have one made for your car. and yes you will get the bass you want

jl audio is a good name to stand by for amps kickers amps sound good at a high vol but not at a low vol

could be low current ,disconnect all power including ground for 20min N.B most amps will seem to be shorted at output but this is normal due to damping ratio.