20 Most Recent Maytag 21.1 Cu. Ft. White Refrigerator - M1BXXGMYW - Page 5 Questions & Answers

That will happen if the ice is not used for a while especially in humid weather.

The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) Test Mode.

First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.

In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.


Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.

If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

A helpful schematic of the wiring can be found at the following website link http://www.applianceaid.com/images/mayadaptive-defrost.JPG

The control board will look something like this picture =>
http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/MaytagAdaptive.jpg

This is all happening in the fresh food compartment, up top which is where you will find it. It is very failure-prone, so you are definitely not the first, the relay in it is usually the failure. Be sure to unplug the fridge before disassembling or you could get a nasty shock. Been there, done that.

If you don't defrost the fridge manually, then you should let it defrost on its own by turning it off and leaving the freezer door open. Usually, I take apart the freezer and defrost the evaporator. But, if you can get by without it for a few days, just let the fridge defrost on its own.



Benjamin

It is possible that the door was not closed tighly, so the humidity built up in the duct line and the low temperature from the freezer make it turned into ice causing the clogging. The Buzzing noise turns on due to the sensorsomewhre along the disigne path. Unplug the fridge for a day and a half so the the ice in the duct line could melt down then when you turn on the sensor won't turn on the buzzing any more. Good luck.

Kindly check the following

Wiring

Thermostat

Defrost timer

Compressor

If you can hear some sound of a fan then the compressor is working..As for the other devices you have check for open circuits. You may need an assistance from a repair person.

Check also this link and it might help:

http://apwagner.wordpress.com/2008/05/22/5-common-freezer-problems/

Hope it helps and have a great day!

HI, your Temperature Control Module has failed. it controls the air flow and vent(damper) action. replacing the temp control mod will fix this issue you are having at this time.

Yes order it at www.bcaparts.com

if the freezer is cold and the fridge is not then it can be several things. The freezer could have a bunrt out defrost heater, defrost timer faulty, fan not working in the freezer??. all of these things will stop your fridge getting cold, but your freezer will still be around minus 9 deg c. you wont get any air into the fridge as the coil in the freezer is prob all iced over. Dont worry about the heat on the door frame as it is only the anti sweat heater

Dont know this model but it may have two compressors and only one working.

Check for excessive frost build up in the freezer on the back panel. This would indicate that you have a defrost problem. One of 3 things cause a ref not to defrost. Defrost timer may not be advancing to the defrost position on the timer...The defrost thermostat, located on the evaporator in the freezer, measures open (bad)...or you have a bad defrost heater. If you have an electronic defrost control,which is used on most Maytag, Jenair, or Amana units, this could be your problem. If you turn the unit off for 24 hours to let it defrost manually then it will last for about 2 weeks before freeze up again.

I'm not sure if this will help but the freezer that is located on the bottom of my refrigerator started forming ice on the back part where the cold air was supposed to be coming out. I kept hearing a hissing sound like water dripping on a hot surface. I called the repair man in and he had to replace the defrost timer. Once he did that it worked like a charm.

I am not an expert by any means although removing ice from a frost-free freezer is a pain and this took care of the problem for me. Good luck!

buying parts from Appliancezone.com. there is live chat to help find the right part.

All question need full 'make model (what it is)', first 3 words. Google make model wiring diagram. Brown or Red is normally power and blue is return. https://www.google.com/search?q=Freezer+with+loose+red+and+blue+cables ..

you do not leave them alone they may have refrigerant flowing through them. look in your owners manual/instructions for more info.

Yes

Question edited for clarity and add CAPS. It seems to be a common occurrence on that model due to bad design. https://www.fixya.com/support/t17110008-norfrost_c6aew_chest_freezer_compressor Norfrost is owned by Ebac. Contact their customer service. https://www.johnogroat-journal.co.uk/news/caithness-freezer-name-lives-on-in-england-170710/ https://www.ebac.com/support/customer-service Another way would be to study the wiring as it is pretty standard. The video may help. https://www.google.com/search?q=freezer+wiring+diagram You may be able to freeze this video to note the wiring, although this only shows the thermostat wiring and is a bit fuzzy. Also an refrigeration appliance technician would know the wiring by heart and take 20 minutes maximum to work it out.

Hey. I dont suppose you figured out where the wires went all all? I've done the same thing ????

Question edited to add maker! All questions need 'make model (what it is) as first three words. That is an overheating fault. Replace the fluff with no fluff. Make sure the condenser coils are free of dust and there is good airflow Or It is low on refrigerant gas and you need a service tech.. ..

The Frigidaire FFC13K2CW1 chest freezer has a capacity of 12.8 cubic feet. More info: https://www.partselect.com/Models/FFC13K2CW1/

Question edited for clarity. Duplicate question deleted. Refresh page to see you question. This is not a make I know. Things like drawers are usually readily available. This link may work better where you are located. https://www.google.com/search?q=BRADA+MF-305+parts Generic Drawer replacements https://www.google.ca/search?q=freezer+drawer+replacement&sca_esv=580628691&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AM9HkKk2I1HuWqUimTZskQkh3tRH3AJ6rA:1699481832834&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiZ0MqXt7WCAxUwL1kFHUrtBG0Q_AUoAnoECAIQBA&biw=1920&bih=919&dpr=1 ..