Maytag MHWZ400T Front Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Why won't it turn on

no it is not normal and there so be no reasonable excuse for bad vibrations and shaking on a new machine ,if the setting up instructions and leveling procedures were carried out. at six months it should be still under warranty so have it fixed under the warranty

I think you have to check your water supply pressure, your filters. Your machine is taking time to drain and fill in water. Otherwise, you might have a problem with your heaters not warming up easily which means your heater controls have a problem or your heater is busted.

Clean the drain pump while the machine is off. There is a small door on the bottom front panel of the machine. Open this. You will see a jar cover like thing that you can unscrew. Unscrew this. A lot of water will gush out.... be careful..... Clean this and put the filter and cap back. If same thing happens again when you run the machine, you will have to replace the drain pump. Chances are, you are trying to run a 50 hertz machine on a 60 hertz line.

shiela,you have a blocked pump or a bad pump,i wrote to you already on how to clean out the pump and you'll be fine.

you have to clean the pump or you have a bad pump,unplug it,remove the bottom panel,get a shop vac,the center of the pump spins out counterclockwise,have vac ready,turn center cap and vac out water as it comes out,first if there\'s water in the tub suck that out first then go to the pump,when water stops coming out pull out the center of pump and clean it out,usually coins and other lovely smelly stuff in there,go here and look at part number 15 this is the part you want to removehttp://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Maytag-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-MHWZ400TB00/3048/0153200/W0803074/00005?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=if you have anymore questions i\'m here and good luck,this is an easy repair and these pumps usually can take a pounding

The most common place for a front load washer to leak is in the bellow. This is the rubber piece right inside the door. Pull the rubber piece back and check for tears or holes. If there are not any holes then there is probably a hole in the hose that runs from the tub to the pump. Sometimes stupid things like bra underwire and bobbi pins get in here and tear them

Hi.

When the washer is control locked you get Loc on display. In your case the washer is probably stuck because there is water inside the drum.

Try first disconnecting power for two minutes by either tripping the circuit breaker or by disconnecting the power cord. After reconnecting run a short cycle (e.g. spin only).

If that does not work the water must be removed through the drain filter in front of the machine. In that case do the following:

Disconnect power.
Remove the trim panel at the base of the machine.
Locate the drain filter access at one side.
Remove drain filter cap.
Collect water using containers (have them ready, a lot of water will flow out).
Put back cap and trim and reapply power.

See the picture below showing how to remove the panel at the base of the machine:



Here the drain filter:



That is usually enough to solve the problem. If that does not work the machine must be partly disassembled to reach the inside of door lock pulling the emergency access cable. The emergency access can be reached removing the drain filter or removing the top panel. Power must be off and the operation should be done by a technician.

Disconnecting power and emptying the water through the drain filter is usually enough to unlock the door and to put the machine back at work.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
OR is there water still left inside because the drainage system is not able to operate efficiently?

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

'I also disconnected the power to see if an inlet valve was stuck open but the water continued to run.'

You do have a stuck open valve, then. Sorry but it needs replacing ;-0(

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

F-21 on this washer means long drain which mean s the drain isnt working properly open the lower panel and open the drian sump (might gush water) and make sure that no objects are stuck if you find anything remove it and try the drain and spin option if it does not help or if you dont find anythin replace the drain pump, hope that helps

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

(no promises but it's worth carrying this out anyway!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

"F20" is a "No Water Detect" error code. This usually means you have very little water entering the machine, or no water at all. The following link explains the error code in more detail and steps necessary to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608632-f20_error_code

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.


NOTE: Each one of thes washers comes with a technical data sheet inside. The tech sheet lists all error codes, troubleshooting information, wiring diagrams, diagnostics procedures and illustrations. To access, you need to remove the lower toe panel directly below the door. The screws are located under the bottom front edge. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down and can be removed. If the tech sheet is not located directly behind the toe panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. I mention the tech sheet, because you may need to refer to it in order to accurately troubleshoot. If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this information is helpful to you

Unplug the dryer or disconnect power then remove the three screws attaching the bottom of the lower front access panel and pull the panel down and off. Once the panel is off, you'll find the drain filter attached to the drain pump.

Place a container or a piece of towel underneath the filter to catch spillage. You may need to drain the water from the machine by putting the end of the drain hose over a container on the floor. Position the container as low as possible to extract as much water.

Remove the filter by turning the knob counterclockwise and clean it. Also take a moment to inspect the drain pump impeller by reaching it in with your finger and turning it. The impeller should turn freely. Otherwise, replace the drain pump.

This Maytag machine is made by Whirlpool and therefore troubleshooting are basically the same. Click on link below for more detailed drain problem troubleshooting.

Drain Problem Troubleshooting on Whirlpool-made Front Load Washing Machines

Hi,

Remove the three screws on the lower front panel. The panel will slide down and out of the way. Next twist the filter handle and pull the filter out of position. Clean the filter and run a test cycle. That should fix your washer friend, good luck.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. You may need a new seal there. Are there any cracks on the seal? Dents?

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

F21 error is displayed when the washer is unable to drain, press PAUSE/CANCEL button twice to clear the display. After this please check the drain hose and drain pump filter for any blockages and make sure it is not clogged with foreign particles. You can also check the drain pump to verify that its working. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

QUIT using this machine,I just had one similar to it and the inner tub was off center,I removed the whole inner basket and center shaft to the rear from the belt drive pulley and found that the aluminum spider that holds the inner tub had shattered due to moisture and detergent ROT, get the unit apart and check for this problem,because when it spins out it can or could fly apart inside the outer tub,this was a General Electric front load washer unit,but all the issues you have are identical to this one,by the way,the customer filed a claim with G.E. and after fighting with them got a brand new washer with a FULL warranty at no charge............check it carefully and then go after the company

Hi

Please check this bellow link to remove the F-24 error code:-

http://maytag.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2885/~/display-shows-an-error-code---front-load-washer

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

Thank you for contacting fixya.com

F28 is a serial communication error between the motor control and the machine control board. Check all connections between the boards - if everything looks good 95% of the time the board that is bad is the machine control board and NOT the motor control board. Replace and access this part by taking the top panel off - it is held in by a few screws coming in from the back holding on the top of the unit. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514