Top 20 Asko WL6511W Front Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Faulty washer control timer.

Check the lid switch. These are usually made of plastic, and they break easily. They are often the ;problem.

go to the manufactures website and download the user guide to locate the problem cause eric

not sure if this link will help you find it but have a look. user manual asko front loader washing machine W6011 Google Search

What model number is the machine? That error is related to the amount of time it is taking to drain. There could be something blocking the pump on the intake side. It could also be the pump itself.

See page 14 Spin speed / No spin / No draining http://www.washingmachine-manual.com/manuals/asko/Asko_W6342.pdf

if you've replace the brushes, and smells... are you sure you got the correct brushes. If too close, especially if there were already some bad windings... could have physically caught some. Burning smell very bad in DC motor. The internal windings could be melting, which means the end of that motor. I would either look for another motor if you're so inclined... or new washer time. However in looking at the model you reference, it would seem you got a very good run out of that unit. If you can afford it, it might be time to say goodbye to the old friend and move on. Sorry, I hope I'm wrong! Good luck

Why would you want to try and fix it when it under warranty. Call for warranty service.

Sounds like your machine need a "new timer".

No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller. Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, motor coupler, brake assembly, transmission, and mode shifter or actuator. one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Or try the hand test: If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day. - put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand - turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin - if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand - if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage. LID SWITCH TEST- next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer. Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN By the way my advice is free cuz God is good! Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in Whirlpool Kenmore...

Replace door lock switch

circuit breaker,post one question only

We do not sell parts here but you can try www.searspartsdirect.com or another website called the repairclinic.com

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Washing-Machine-Repair-Help

WASHER WILL NOT START: Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary. Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch.. If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start. Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself. Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly. Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on. The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good! All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced Lastly CONTROL BOARD If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures. https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Washing-Machine-Repair-Help http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Washer/Will-Not-Start/ http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Washer/Will-Not-Start Washing Machine Repair Help

Try lifting up on the outer bottom corner when shutting the door, if it shuts that way then there is probably a loose screw on the hinges that needs tightening.

You have unplugged it and it still is stuck

Hi dear, F10 error related to OVER FILL. Follow the things below,see how it works.Thanks. Troubleshooting Error messages If an error occurs during the program, a message is shown on the display. To exit the message after taking action, turn the machine off and then back on. The error messages that may be shown in the display are: F10 Overfilling 1. Shut off the water tap. 2. See "Drainage error". F11 Drainage error Check: • that no objects are stuck in the drainage hose outlet. • that the drain pump is not blocked by foreign objects. Clean the pump. See the "Care and maintenance instructions" chapter. • that there are no kinks in the drainage hose After taking action, run the Drain program or press the Door Opening button (key symbol) to empty the machine. If this does not resolve the problem, call the Customer Care Center.

Stop using it. You are risking a fire or electrocution. Since parts have been melted, I would suggest replacing the whole machine.

Hi dear, As I know it happens to other Asko washer models as well. From 800 rpm going up to 12-14 or 1600 rpm. That sounds happens due to vibration generated from motor. I do not thing you can do much about it unless changing motor,which is costly remedy. Thanks.