20 Most Recent Boston Acoustics Duo-i Horizon Clock Radio Questions & Answers

thank you soooooo much!!!
it worked :)

That means that if too much power is going to the speaker or extraneous signals are being picked up by the wiring, it can come through the speakers as static. Stopping static requires finding and eliminating that extra electricity from transmitting through your speakers. If you're still hearing distortion, turn down the volume on your amplifier until the distortion goes away. If the volume is too low to be easily heard, the problem may be that your amplifier produces too much power for your speakers to handle or that your amp and speakers have different impedance ratings.

In my case the blue LEDs were dead. It is pretty difficult to replace them by new SMD-LEDs but I managed it. Open the front, take out the board from the front part (5 screws). On one side of the LCD-screen you can see a white stripe with 3 resistors 101 (100 ohms). You must free this stripe form the plastic body on the left and right side (eg. by soldering iron). Solder out this stripe, on the other side you will find 3 very small smd-leds. Break them out and solder 3 new leds onto the board (left side = K). For control you can put 3 Volts to the Anode (A=+) and the Kathode (K=-) of this stripeboard before fixing it on the frontboard by soldering.

UNPLUG the radio. Once you have gotten to the volume control spray contact cleaner, available at most radio shack or other electronic stores, into the switch. WD40 will also work. Clean up any excess liquid before plugging radio back in

Remove 2 speaker grills. I use a dental pick for this and the next step. Remove all 8 rubber retainers for the speaker grill posts as there are 8 screws underneath that a #2 Philips screwdriver can be used to remove. Next pull the center volume control knob off and set it aside. Now for the hard part, pull the protective panel which is held on with double-sided tape off of the LCD display. You should now see a single screw which you remove with a #0 Philips screwdriver. The front is now ready to be removed but don't pull too hard as there are many wires that can be damaged if pulled too far. You may need to pry the front off with a straight blade screwdriver. I recommend 4 colors of Sharpie markers to label plugs and ribbon cables as you remove them and some type of support for the front that will not stick to the double-sided tape. I use plastic TV dinner trays for this and also to hold screws and various other parts. Once you separate the speaker wires and all the front board connectors you should be able to lay the front piece containing the speakers and display PCB down on your plastic tray or other non-stick surface to pull the (5) #1 Philips screws out of the display board. Once this is done you can remove the other 2 knobs from the front and you'll see the leaky/cracked memory cap on the front side of the display board. On the amplifier board you'll see the yellow glue that turns brown and becomes a conductor. If you don't believe me stick some multi-meter probes in it and measure the resistance.

If you are lucky, it only went in protection mode and after disconnecting the power for a little while and reconnecting things could come back. But if the system did not have an overload protection, a fuse can be blown, or worse the power supply or power amp can be blown to pieces. There is one thing semiconductors don't like is work over their limit.

If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

Control micro is damaged due to leaky memory cap, .33F/5.5v on display board. Yellow glue used on these units turns brown and becomes both conductive and corrosive to the circuit board traces. built in obsolescence in my opinion to get you to buy new.

Bull, the cap is leaking all over the board and has damaged the control microprocessor. Good luck fixing that yourself. No parts available, sorry.

Front board micro and backlight of LCD screen failure. Memory cap failure. No parts available, sorry.

This isn't really a solution, but it does work. Mine does the same thing, and I found on another forum, some one suggested that once the power is off and it starts to hum. Smack the back left top (as your are facing it) and it will stop the buzzing. I was hesitant at first, but after many fruitless searches, I gave it a try. It does work, but you have to hit it fairly hard and it may take a couple tries to get it to stop. I still can't believe no one has found a solution to this, it seems to be a common problem. If someone is a tech person, please way in on this, I am willing to take this thing apart, I just don't know what to look for. It appears that they use relays to delay the time for powering on and off the amp, once the 2-3 second delay is over after powering off, the speakers buzz loudly with a static noise.