20 Most Recent Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W Portable Generator - Page 8 Questions & Answers

There are many different models of Briggs used however simple methed is to find the governor shaft. Attached to the small shaft will be a lever with the governor spring and linkage that connects to the throttle. One end of the governor spring attaches to the lever and other is attached to either an adjustment screw with locknut or metal tab that can be bent. Increasing the pull of the governor spring on the lever will cause the engine rpm to increase. Bend the tab to allow for greater pull or adjusting the bolt with locknut. Make sure that the engine is not turning much more than 3600 rpm. Use a digital meter with Hz setting to set the output cycles at 60. When set at 60 cycles the engine should be turning about 3600 rpm which is where the engine develops max power.

remove recoil to accsess flywheel, use hammer to tap on cooling fins (back and forth) try not to break fins off.

I have a Briggs & Stratton GENPOWER 11 generator that is electric start. The electric start will not start the motor or ever turn it over. I can turn the key on and jump across the terminals on the starter and it will run only if I continue to squirt starter fluid in the carb. My question is, if the ignition switch is bad, could that be the reason it will not stay running. My only guess is if the ignition switch is bad, the motor thinks it is in the off position at all times. Thanks, R Ray

Your field has lost the residual magnetism. You need to flash the field. There are several ways to do this and the description is too long to write here. Best is to search google for flashing field generator. I would try the trick using a single speed drill motor first as it is a safe method. You must lock the drill on and it cannot be a type with a throttling trigger. Plug into the 110 receptacle and with breaker on give the drill a spin with your hand. This is with the generator running. More drastic steps using a battery need to be done with generator stopped.

to much air intake,check carburetor gaskets

try to clean out the carb first with auto parts carb cleaner, then you may need to buy a totally new carb for the unit, as this company will NOT sell parts for these carbs due to the carb setting is sealed & has to stay at a set level for voltage output and setting

As long as it's output voltage is 120VAC, your good.

The most common cause of back firing is un-burned gasoline in the cylinder. Make sure your air filter is clean and there are no spider webs in the air-intake manafold. Also, be sure your spark plug is clean (new). Finally, check that the spark plug wire is not damaged/cracked. Each of these can allow excess fuel to exist in the cylinder and cause back firing. This process does not always occur in the cylinder. Fuel can also build up in the muffler and burns/explodes once the muffler gets hot enough (but that is rare on such a small engine with a muffler that gets as hot as your generator should).Another issue is carbon buildup. This hot soot (carbon) on the piston and cylinder head to store heat from previous combustion cycles of the engine. This carbon eventually gets so hot that it can ignite the fuel/air mixture entering the cylinder BEFORE the spark plug ignites it. Having that fuel mixture explode when the exhaust valve is still closed makes the engine hemmorage and make strage noises once the exhaust valves to open. This is called pre-ignition. It is not as loud as a backfire but it is loud.In summary, clean your air filter, and air box, and have the carburator adjusted back to factory specs (if anyone tried to turn any screws on the carburator since it was new). If the unit has not been used much, it is likely the air filter. If it has been used heavily, then the soot/carbon build up is likely an issue.

My manual says 10w30 from 30 deg. F. to 100 deg. F.and 10w40 from 50 deg F. to 122 deg F. If you live in a moderate temp zone, I would use 30 wt non detergent and save the difference in cost. Good lucki

No special tool needed (usually). The armature is resting on a tapered part of the shaft. Assuming that you have removed the stator and have exposed the armature and have removed the center bolt. Apply penetrating oil to shaft so that the oil can enter between shaft and armature (wait for oil to work at least half hour). Hold piece of hardwood against metal part of armature (first one side then other) and rap very firmly with heavy hammer. Be careful not to hit metal directly or wiring. If the oil has done its work, the armature will come off with first couple of hits. If not add more oil and wait. Then try again. Good luck.

Hi,
If it has stopped producing power after only two hours then I would return it and get a replacement... there is no way I would be taking anything that new apart and trying to fix it...

You know that it did work so there is nothing that you are doing wrong...a part was weak and failed prematurely...probably a diode or voltage regulator...but also could be an internal winding problem..could also be a bad circuit breaker...

I am assuming that you reset circuit breakers or checked fuses...

heatman101

Try this! To excite it. Shut off the generator! Unplug everything,Then use the 12 volt battery to excite it per manual. Make sure the engine is NOT running and the breaker switch is in the on position. Now with the battery 12V removed restart the generator! This should fix it if the problem is that it lost its magnetism.