20 Most Recent Behringer Pmp3000 16 Channel Audio Mixer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

It is not clear what your configuration is. The monitor OUTPUTS are monaural. For recording you should be using the MAINS OUTPUTS and those NEED to use the the MAIN1 IF you are using TRS balanced lines, else if you record with unbalanced cables you need to use the MAIN2 outputs...

Monitor outputs are intended for stage monitors and vary ONLY with the monitor controls at each channel and the monitor sliders and do NOT vary with the sliders.

Sorry, the fan is thermally controlled and USUALLY will run at low speed when unit is lightly loaded. In hot weather or driven hard it will run faster and louder.

Whatever you do, do NOT block airflow... these are a dual 400 Watt continuous amp (600 a side peak) and they need to breathe !!!

If you can duct cool air to it, that will help. You could also try sound absorbing baffles while maintaining adequate clearance for airflow.

Do you mean the SPEAKER mono output or the top mounted 1/4 inch jacks?

The A side power amp is used to drive monitor speakers and the B side the mains.

All other connnections of speakers require amplifier OR powered/active speakers.

You can add extra amps driving ADDITIONAL speakers... you CANNOT parallel amps driving the same speakers.

Drive these seperate amps from the MAINS OUT connnectors using TRS and balanced lines to those external amps.

The unit should drive 400 Watts RMS into a 4 ohm load per side.

The amount of sound power you get will VASTLY depend on speaker efficiency. You would likely use at least 15 inch speakers with the unit.

Th TOP221P chip is available but I can almost guarantee you have other damage as well. I assume it is pin 5 that burned. D7 and C16 would certainly be destroyed. IF IT IS ANY OTHER pin, you will find many other parts destroyed. D7 is a common 1N4007 and C16 is 4.7mfd/450VDC. Remember to carve out any burned baord material as it is conductive.

For the chip you can procure it here:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&WT.z_homepage_link=hp_go_button&KeyWords=top221p

You did a lot of damage, and replacing the fuse and trying it has caused much more.

There will be about seven blown parts on the amp and a dozen on the power supply. To give you an idea of the extent, the WHOLESALE parts cost is roughly $50, including the main power supply switchers IGBT's which cost nearly $20 for the pair by themselves.

I have repaired several of these and the larger cousin the PMP5000. It is a lot of skilled work to repair these.

The cause is a marginal insulation between layers of the multi-layer amplifier board. Usually the rearmost amp arcs between the layers. This fries three big switching transistors followed sometimes by a metering resistor and two small surface mounted transistors. A zener diode often goes. The cancer and burned area has to be ground out with a dental drill and new wire replaces the blown circuit traces.

If you are under warranty, take the unit for replacement.

The thing that can arc the amp is if speaker leads are marginal or get pulled out while under power. Excessive volume, especially pulses at high level can break down the insulaton causing the arc and failure. The black smoke is likely from the metering resistor.

If the fuse blew do NOT replace it till the unit is serviced or you will burn up more components. These units will blow out from a minimum of three to 30 components when they blow.

There is weak insulation between layers of the power amp circuit board and the arcing destroys a minimum of three transistors and often many more components on the power supply board as well.

I have repaired several of these and it is a lot of work. The power amp module can be had for about $175 but it often takes out the power supply as well.

The power amp blew... There is a marginal insulation in a circuit board that wipes out the rear-most power amplifier. Usually accompanied by sparks and smoke.

If the lights still come on for the effects window, then the power supply is OK and you are VERY lucky... have the unit serviced immediately.

If no lights come on now, the the power supply is toast as well. There will be about 20 components fried.

I know as I have repaired 4 of these... no fun, believe me!

You may be having early stages of arc over in the main amp. This leads to catastrophic failure of the power amp section (usually the rearward one) and sometimes the power supply.

Facing the back of theunit, usually the left speakon connector is the one that connects to the section that fails.

The arcing is between two layers of a multi-layer board.

Note, if you smell smoke or pop a fuse DO NOT continue to use the device but get immediate servicing.

Try Mouser electronics. Their website mouser.com is easy to navigate. The will ship just the one fuse if you need it. If you know the size and type of fuse they are usually the cheapest. You can also try Radio Shack. They also carry a large selection of fuses.

Hi, first get a battery and a wire to comfirm if the speakers are still working.
If the speakers work that means one of your connecting cables is bad and it needs to be replaced.

You can just do a general troubleshooting of all the cable for connecting.

Good luck.

Manual is available online:

http://www.behringer.com/EN/downloads/pdf/PMP1000_P0566_M_EN.pdf

Note: this manual covers three different units.

Set you PAN controls to 12 o'clock. Set the slide switch for MAIN A MAIN B clear up.

If one side is still dead, you MAY have a failure and continued use can cause further damage.

Whatever you do, DON'T change speaker leads when unit is on !!!!!!! I have been repairing these units.

The speakers are 8 ohm so you can probably get near the 400 Watt per side when connected to this mixer. You don't need bridge mode to get this and I would recommend not using it anyway. Whatever you do make sure the speakers don't get disconnected when running at high volumes as you will arc out the amp in the mixer... I know this as I fix them... I have two PMP5000's that I repaired. Lots of work to repair...

The feedback is NOT the fault of the mixer or speakers but instead of something picking up sound from the speakers and sending back to the mixer.

The mic must be well in back of the speakers (say at least 10 feet) to avoid this or you need to use anti-feedback hardware to avoid the problem or highly directional close talking mics. Reverberation off walls can also get back to mics and cause problem. I was able to use a wireless Peavey mic which seemed to disrupt the phase enough to never get into an oscillation even when in front of the speakers.

This is likely a power supply problem...

Be very careful to use an isolation transfprmer when working on the supply in this as there are lethal voltages.

Hello, The problem can be in diverse form but the hints to used is as follows . Check the XLR or JACK connecting cables used for connection , if they are okay , and if they are okay , check for the volume of the mixer and other audio appliances connected to it

The circuitry is a bit complex for that PFL light. The LED is driven by a transistor T38 type BC846 to turn it OFF by grounding out the current coming by way of teh MUTE LED or the MUTE switch (SW14) horts out the MUTE LED. There is a 1K limiting resistor from +15 volts feeding the two LEDS in series.

IF transistor T38 is open the PFL will be on. HOWEVER T38 will also be turned off if transistor T44 (BC846 type NPN) or if capcitor C90 2ufd/50v is shorted OR if resistor R253 is open OR is switch SW8 (PFL DPST )is not contacting the ground side of of the half tied to R247. If R247 is open that will also cause the PFL LED to illuminate...

AND if the signal coming in is at clippling level the PFL LED will light.

All that circuitry serves as a clip detector plus the PFL function.

Verify you are not sending clipping level into the channel first... turn the trim off. If not, you are in for major surgery as all the knobs for that section of the circuit board and the screws for the XLR's and the 1/4 inch jacks must come off as well as some support screws IF it is necessary to access the top side of the board... Maybe you will get lucky and the bad component MIGHT be on the bottom of the board.

I just fix this unit,
1 Nch IRF140N
1 Pch IRF9140N
1 0.1 ohm 3w resistor at one of the mosfets
1 47 ohm 1/4w
1 220ohm 1/4w

It sounds like you need just the fuse carrier...

This is as close as I can find:

http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Schurter/62002300/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1TUPJeFpwblxZ%252bgbqW48rbR6t5kzh87o%3d

The only way to get exact is to go through Behringer or get an exact part number and manufacturer.

Disassembling your unit to get at the part would be a lot of work. I have repaired three of these and am familiar with the unit.

DO NOT REPLACE THE FUSE !!! You will do more damage.

I just repaired one of these. A small ceramic surface mounted cap very near where the +/- 85 volt connectors plug onto the board blew up.

This left a sputtered mess on the insulating material at the right rear corner of the power supply.

The net parts list of parts I had to replace:

1. Main IGBT transistors on heat sinks. You have to remove the heat sinks to get at the mounting screws. 1MBK50D or equivalent. I used DigKey part APT28GA60BD15

2. One 1N4148 surface mount diode that is for gate drive speedup. D24 and D25. (don't remember which one was shorted)

3. All four driver transistors for the gate of the IGBT's. @ each 2SA1020 (PNP) and 2SC2655 (NPN). These are tall TO92-like transistors and I believe that at least one of these I had to get from Mouser.

4. Transistor T9, suface mount BC856B (PNP)

5. Replaced all four surface mount caps, one had exploded.
C50, C51,C54,C56. Replace with 0.01mfd/200 Volt 1206 style surface mount caps Digikey 478-1511-6

6.Replaced ceramic wire wound 10 Watt stand up resistors that were blown open. Replaced with 20 ohm design change. These slowly charge the main input filter caps and when supply is stable, a relay shorts them out. If you have replaced the fuse, you LIKELY blew them out. Original value was 10 ohms on some units. This was a Mouser part. 280-PRM10-20-RC

7. The 2153 switching reg chip IC1. This chip shorts. It is made by International Rectifier and I believe the full number is something like IRF2153. I had these in stock and not sure of which source I had procured them from... It was from one or the other.

Lots of destruction and one really needs a desoldering station to work this. Removal of the blown IGBT's is especially tough. All solder must be removed from the transistor leads AND the thermistor on one of the heat sinks. Once you have verified the leads are loose, one has to rock the heat sinks to get the tabs free. The tabs are NOT soldered! Be careful when restoring to get the thermistor leads started in their holes.

Note: ALL these repair parts were procured from DigiKey.com and Mouser.com. Neither of these places had all, I had to order from both. Mouser had the ceramic resistors.

When restarting this, leave outputs disconnected until it is running again. USE a series 75 watt light bulb in the 120 volt input. ONLY work on the unit using an isolation transformer as a large portion of this is connected right to the power line.

There is a small 15 volt switching supply that comes on first that runs the relay to short out the inrush limiting resistors. With the 2153 shorted as usual, this auxilary supply can't reach voltage enough to turn on the relay. The power for this is supplied through the ceramic resistors.