20 Most Recent Dewalt DC925B Heavy Duty Xrp 18V Cordless Hammerdrill/Drill/Driver Bare Tool - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Let it soak in wd 40 for a few hours and put on vise, and get some vise grips and un stick it.

Bad Battery

yes,, Travis, please be more specific...

Your switch is having a problem it can be caused by excessive load on the motor. The motor must be sounds not shrill and must have power , the most people think on the batteries but in more case by switch problems its the motor there is a field effect transistor inside the switch behind the cooling brass plate thats shorted and that is for the variable rpm . Replace switch and if the motor sounds good then the problem should solved. if also the motor is bad go for a new replacement body ask your dealer.

Take it back

You'll have to contact Dewalt for that info--this is a reach---also I was unaware that there was a circuit board inside a 18V lithium ion batt---GL

ROUTER????you should have two wrenches or one with a locking mechanisms on shaft----loosen nut----push bit in then pull out!!! if doesn't work take the nut off and check the holding collar---possibly spray it with penetrate---tap it a few times & it should come out------GL

If you look at the end of the shaft on the drill after it unscrews, there will be a hole with threads inside--if not the screw may have broken off---your missing screw that holds the chuck on--it's a left handed threaded screw---it's head may be slotted--philips---torx---or allen---this is available at your Dewalt dealer or tool repair---all that needed is the size/model number of unit---screw the chuck back on tightly then open chuck jaws all the way then put the holding screw in---tighten it down---REMEMBER IT'S LEFT HANDED----GL

In order to to give an accurate answer, the model and voltage of your drill would be reqired

you can find it here- https://www.manualslib.com/manual/633550/Dewalt-Dw625e.html

Bad cord, bad trigger switch most likely.

There are a few common issues that cause this: 1) Check your brushes(#44) - this tool has auto-stop brushes so when they reach a certain level the controller knows they are low, a little further and the auto stop springs push out preventing the brushes from contacting the armature. 2) It sounds crazy, but the fan (#46) can also be the problem. Inside the fan is a magnet that gets picked up by a sensor letting it know what rpm the motor is spinning. If the magnet is missing or broken the tool won't run or won't run to full speed. DeWALT D25701 Type 1 Hammer Parts

The switch is about the only thing that controls the speed of the tool. If you post the model number I can get you the correct part#

These are known for the spring in the nose (#12) to fail. Using an o-ring pick or small screwdriver remove the hog ring on the end of the bit holder (#17). Slide the washer, spring, and sleeve off (Be careful not to lose the small lock ball) The spring that pushes the lock ball forward (#12) is usually the culprit. Reassemble in reverse order DeWALT DCF886D2 20V Impact Driver Parts

Curious if you have tested the switch to make sure it is the problem? Also, have you checked the armature & brushes (make sure the brushes move freely in the brush tubes and squarely contact the armature)? The DW708 is prone to bearing issues and the field is not uncommon either. It would be unlikely to have a new switch fail that soon unless there is another issue causing it.

type what you want in google but click images instead of web they have loads different diagrams on there you may be lucky.

Worn out hammers?