I have the same problem. It got progressively worse over time. The chuck did not want to tighten all the way at times and then got stuck open. There is a screw in the center to hold the chuck on. It is a left hand thread and I believe it loosened and the jaws became jammed on the loose screw. I tapped on the screw using a screwdriver and was able to tighten it a bit thus allowing the jaws to free. I removed the screw, put some thread locker on the threads and reassembled it. Seems fine now
Here's what you're looking at for possible parts:Motor and Pinion PN: 396505-22SV $40Brush and Holder PN: 603754-01 $6 (ea)VSR Switch PN: 152274-22 $55Depending on where you buy, plus shipping. Any or all of the above parts could have caused the drill to get hot enough to make a burning smell. You'll have to take it apart to see what's wrong then assess the repair cost vs. buying new.
The switch on these drills is notorious for doing exactly what you describe. One thing to check is the battery terminals on the bottom of the switch, they get bent or broken off easily. It could also be internal to the switch but the only fix is to replace it. You need Dewalt part number 152274-22 to repair the drill. It's a fairly easy repair but shop the internet, they cost from $55 to $75 plus shipping.
go to the tip section and I left detailed instructions on how to do this, or try and go to my profile page under tups. Let me know if you still need more help
It all depends on what is burning I'm afraid. When in use, run your hand around the back of the machine and handle area to see if anywhere in particular is getting hot. On the older versions of these (DW988) the leads leading from the switch to the brush holders would overheat and burn, also causing damage to the brush holders themselves. Is there any smoke coming from the rear vents, if so you wil probably find it is a motor problem and the smell would be the insulation burning off the armature. The only other thing to check would be to make sure the battery isn't shorting and getting hot, as this could also cause damage to the switch and vice versa.
if the chuck is rusted start with some WD-40 on the chuck body. Then what I would do is take a rag and wrap around the chuck collar and using a pair of channel locks grip the collar with enough pressure to hold but not break it and using the tool in the low position pull the trigger switch SLOWLY and see if that doesn't free up the chuck. Let me know if still stuck and I will come up with something else, but this usually works for me.
If you noticed this sound the first time you tried the drill, it is noise of the armature brake. This noise is normal and not a problem at all. Michael Mittelsdorf
Possible reasons for this behavior:
Blinks Long (Red Light): If your battery is too hot, the charger will blink the red light rapidly and for an extended duration. To prevent this, ensure that your battery is not exposed to direct sunlight or excessive heat. Give it some rest to cool down.
Blinks Short: If the battery is too cold, it will blink short and fast. This could be due to prolonged exposure to cold temperatures or the battery being idle for an extended period. Allow the battery to charge for a while or bring it to room temperature to resolve this issue.
Blinks Very Fast (Doesn't Go Away): If the light is blinking very fast and persists, it indicates that your battery has gone bad and needs replacement.
A photo would greatly help with your issue, are both wires still attached to the capacitor?? in not, the capacitor must be replaced with one of the same value,
if the capacitor is ok, look for a wire with solder on the end but nothing else attached to it, or a solder point on a card with a hole in it or a solder joint that has broken free from the card,,, if you can solder well, and have the equipment,. it is good at this point because You'll need to re-solder them back together,,
again a photo will help me greatly in telling you exactly how to fix
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNDgV_6k12E
Reverse and Forward Mode: Try putting the drill in reverse mode and hit the trigger, then forward mode. If that doesn't work, tap the tip on the driveway but don't slam it. It should release .
Use a Wrench: First, make sure that the chuck is in the locked position. Next, use an allen wrench to loosen the set screw on the side of the chuck. Finally, unscrew the drill bit from the chuck .
Remove Chuck Collar: Use a wrench or pliers to loosen the chuck collar and remove it from the chuck. Then, use a screwdriver or other tool to remove the chuck jaws and any other components that may be blocking access to the stuck drill bit. Once these components are removed, you should be able to access the drill bit and remove it from the chuck .
It's going to be a zener diode, that's the easy part, you will need to know the voltage as well, only way to know that is find a good charger and measure the voltage drop across the diode with a multimeter or find a schematic.
Here are the wire placements for the switch of a DeWalt DWD520 hammer drill:
The red wire from the motor goes to the top left terminal on the switch.
The black wire from the motor goes to the top right terminal on the switch.
The white wire from the power cord goes to the bottom left terminal on the switch.
The black wire from the power cord goes to the bottom right terminal on the switch.
It's always recommended to double-check the manual or contact DeWalt customer service for confirmation, as wire placement may vary depending on the specific model and year of manufacture.
