LG LRBC22544 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Take off the back panel and cut the insullation as in the photo and this will never happen again. What happens is the water gets trapped and then ice forms and builds up and causes the blockage.

Sgt 48

This is I think a test path used by Kenmore, what I think it does is to change from test to normal operation, there is a small button on the back of the refrigerator on the main control board, in order to get access there, you will need to unscrew the 3 bolts holding the board rectangle cover, once you get access there, you will see something like what is on the picture attached here. hit the button twice to get to test, the display will show 8888 and all settings on the display will illuminate, press the button twice again and this will change to normal operation, press it twice again and it will change to 2222 again and so on. Let me know if this helps, it worked on mine, however mine has a different fault, it does not cool only freezes. Regards!

The thermal fuse, sometimes called a "thermister" is a device that is usually located behind the rear panel in the freezer. It looks like a wire with a small thing on the end that is secured to the coils behind the rear panel. You will need to remove all the contents of the freezer and remove the rear panel in the freezer...You most likely are going to need to replace it, so getting a new one before you start taking everything apart will be a good idea..You'll need the model # of the fridge etc. Find an appliance parts dealer to acquire the new part which should be fairly inexpensive.. Search "refrigerator thermal fuse" on YouTube and you should find a few video's on what to do and what to look for..Good luck!

FF STANDS FOR FREEZER FAN

It is ER IF and indicates that the ice maker fan is not working. The fan is probably frozen. If you can remove the fan duct and housing at the back of the freezer you may be able to defrost the ice in the fan enclosure. The fan may have frozen because of hight humidity or because the defrost cycle is not working.

I had the same problem. I can tell you that simply unplugging the fridge and letting it defrost isn't going to work. You need to get take it apart.

I had the Er FF code about 2 months ago and let the freezer defrost for a couple hours and it started working again. Then two days ago I got the error again. This time I decided to get inside there.

First and foremost, UNPLUG the fridge and TURN OFF the water!

Next empty everything out of the freezer and start taking it apart. You have to get everything out of it to get that back panel off. This includes the ice maker and the rails that the drawers slide on.

Now that the freezer is completely empty there are two screws that hole the back panel on. In my freezer one is a white screw high in the center and one was a gold screw in the little panel that the ice maker hooked up to.

Next grab the back panel by the little fins on the top of it in the middle. Give it a good firm pull, but take care not to yank it too far... it's still connected by wires back there. When I pulled my panel out I found a HUGE chunk of ice on the top of the panel just to the right of the fan that feeds cold are to the fridge. Get that thing off of there taking care not to damage the foam insulation and watch those shiny metal fins that are behind the panel.

While you're putting it back together try to dry everything off as much as possible (I tried see the bright side of the whole evolution and realized I could really clean my freezer).

Once it's all put back together plug that baby in, turn on the water, and enjoy the next four hours as it gets back to being cold.

I'd say you need moderate tinkering skill to do this. If you only own one screwdriver and you never use it you should probably call someone.

Hope this helps!

You need to replace the hinge. call the appropriate supplier in your area , anything else won't work.

probably heating element in freezer is broken. Remove power and defrost. Remove wall panels in back of freezer to Check heater element behind panels With ohm meter should read 20 ohms or less. You could remove it and bring it to a local repair shop and have them test it and if required order you a new one. If this does not work it may be the control board

You will need to replace the thermister which controls the inside temp.Here is a link to the part you need.

Try to Change its BULB

Don't forget that your dual water control valve has two sides. One side is for the ice maker and other side is for water dispenser. The water dispenser side may have recently failed causing water to not enter water filter area or dispenser, Thanks Sea Breeze5220JA2013A Water Inlet Valve

yep, it looks like a frozen drain pipe. to solve it , defrost your frig for 24 hours. if that doesn't help, see the following page for details how to fix it. http://www.schneordesign.com/Avi/LG/LG819_fix.htm good luck Avi

I found another post that suggested the following. Did it and found wires/connections frozen with a huge piece of ice.

Make sure unit is unpluged!

Removed baskets (2), unscrewed back panel of freezer. A little tricky to get out. There will be electrical connections attached to the panel but you can disconnect/reconnect these. Mine were on the top, left corner. I used a blow dryer to melt the ice chunck. Dried up all the water, replaced back, baskets.

I then took the panel off the very back of the unit as the melted ice had drained into the drip pan. I cleaned the drain pan of water, dust. They don't make this an easy task for the homeowner. Replaced the back, plugged it back in and all is working again. Don't know for how long until this happens again. But....no more LG products for this homeowner.

We remodeled the kitchen 2 years ago and went stainless steel. My 16 year old Kitchenaide is still running in the garage. Guess I'll go back to that model when the LG bits the dust.

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

Check the door switch is operational by pressing it with your hand. When you press it, it should turn off the light. If it does that, then check the door if the door braket is worn or loose or is not hitting the door switch when closing.

I have had the same problem. In my case, its the little water tank behind the left crisper. The tank has cracked (twice now) which means replacement (again). The water leakage gets so bad that it leaks into the freezer causing ice up problems in the rear.

You have a bad iceing fan replace it.

is there ice or frost forming on the back wall.

dh means defrost problem.replace defrost control and element,behind freezer panel.dont forget to unplug fridge before you work on it

the ff error code means freezer failure.you need to replace the defrost control assembly in the freezer compartment behind the back panel..and the evaporator fan may be out also..mark at [email protected] or 503-406-7179