20 Most Recent Troy Bilt Tb70ss Gas Trimmer Questions & Answers

when you prime the bulb it sucks gas from the tank with the small tube, any excess gassed pumped will be fed back to the carb via the big tube leading to the tank. If you prime it and the bulb stays pushed down, then you have a clog or kink. To fix , pull the small tube out of the tank through the fill hole. Pull off the filter on the end and put the tube back in the tank. If it primes, your fuel filter was clogged. If it still wont prime check the hose going to the carb and make sure isnt clogged or kinked.(take of carb and blow in it). If that doesnt fix it take off the bulb from the carb with two screws. The bulb assembly will come off too(rectange metal thing) Take off the two black gaskets, be carefull with them. Take off hoses from carb and bulb asembly. Blow carb cleaner in all holes and over surface. Put back together. If the carb wont prime and the bulb isnt staying depressed. then you might have a bad bulb or carb gaskets. Make sure hoses are not cracked, cloged, or pinched.

it if has a bent drive shaft the head removes by undoing it RH (anti clock wise) if it has a straght shaft with a gear head at the line end, it will come off LH ( clock wise) there will be a hole to lock the head to undo it.

I had the same problem with a Troy Bilt tb65ss. It sat in my garage for a year until I decided to tear it apart. I pulled of the head, removed the debris shield with a Phillips screwdriver, then removed the upper head assembly from the shaft. The inner flex cable is shaped like a square and had wiggled up the shaft until it was no longer engaging. I pulled it down and reassembled the upper head assembly with it engaged. It was a simple fix and took less than 10 minutes. It looks like a terrible design and a repeat problem. If it happens to me again I'll probably jb weld the flex cable in place. Good luck! You can always call the manufacturer and haggle over warranty and haul your trimmer all over town to an authorized dealer who will put it at the back of their pile because you didn't buy it from them or you can fix it in 10 minutes!

Considering your experience, if I was in your position I would locate the cause of the persistent failure and contact the manufacturer who might be suitably grateful. I did that once with an inspection light that was bought in from China and brand engineered, as many goods are today, and I received a voucher and the company stopped buying that model. While it didn't help me much it would have helped others. I am not familiar with the Troy-bilt brand which must be an exclusively US brand. I have used a MAC-60A for 30 years without many problems, a model reckoned by repairers to be a short-lived cheap consumer model.

Is there a lot of fuel coming from plug hole when you pull starter? If so you have problem with carb. Flooding cylinder.

i hope before u replaced the gaskets you gave thecarb.a good cleaning because it is the trash in the carb. causing the problem .

you have a broken shafrt in rod

Sounds like you will need to clean your carburetor.
Sometimes you can get by with priming it a few times, and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple years old, then I also recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, You will first seat the jet screws and count the number of turns it takes to seat the jets from their original position.
That way when you go to put the jets back in, you know how many turns they were in/out.
Please do not forget to rate me,
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Good Luck,
I hope this helped

What does it say in the user manual? Or possibly you don't have one and haven't gone online to get one. Anyway, most of these spools are removed by pushing two lugs together while pulling the spool away from the housing. Replacement is by just positioning the spool and pushing it into the housing until it clicks into place.

these usually are threaded counter clockwise need a pair of channel locks to hold the flywheel then with the other hand crack nut open

check the fuel 'pick-up' filter in the tank to be sure it's not clogged or stuck inside where it's not in the fuel mix. check the fuel lines for clogs, debris, or fuel 'shellac-ing'. if the filter and lines are clear and secure, then check the seating of the fuel bulb. you may have a leak allowing air to be pumped rather than fuel.

1).Switch is off or defective. 2).Coil is defective. 3). Test spark with the proper tool !?!

to be honest, it would probably be less expensive and far less time consuming to replace the entire trimmer with a new/used timmer. If you are willing to invest the time, replace the magneto, the spark line and be certain the spark plug is clean and properly gapped.

The Metal Clamp referenced clamps directly on the end of the '2-Piece Gear Box Assembly'. The gear box assembly is an aluminum casting held together by 3 machine screws. The Metal Clamp does not actually lock the drive shaft housing into the gearbox assembly. The flexible drive shaft cable engages the engine output shaft, and the gear box assembly. This is a fixed length (non-adjustable) assembly.

First ensure that the drive shaft assembly is fully engaged at the quick connect fitting and that the "snap" is engaged. Then make sure the knob is fully tightened. The quick connect allows you to quickly switch between various attachments offered on this unit.

Now, based on your description, it sounds like the 'anti-rotation screw' 791-182519 has backed out or is gone. This will allow the entire cutting assembly (gearbox forward) to slip off of the drive shaft housing and disengage the flexible drive shaft. If your cutting assembly is attempting to rotate while in operation, or the drive is not engaged as you described.
Do not continue to operate the unit until you get this fixed as you could strip out the drive shaft end or cause other serious damage to the equipment or yourself.

If it is the anti-rotation screw, then make sure to push the drive shaft housing firmly into the gear box and ensure to align the holes in the drive shaft housing and the gear box. If the screw is lost, then find one similar sized, but be CERTAIN that it is not too long as it will actually engage the flexible drive shaft and prevent rotation, or cut the drive shaft.

Back to the clamp: If it is still wanting to move, then remove the lock nut and place slightly oversized washers on the bolt head and the lock nut. This will force more pressure (does not take much) on the clamp and will lock it down.

I just fixed mine today (071809) in fact and had to drill a new hole in the drive shaft housing as the original was completely wallowed out.

I hope this helps.

DROPNDEAL

Get a cheap spark checker at your local auto parts store.

Plugged fuel filter???