LG WM-3677HW Front Load Washer / Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

CD means cool down, press the pause start button, the door lock will open. It is an anti crease cycle. It mentions it in the owners manual, but it is hidden deep in the drying section.
Sgt 48

boards can be repaired,find any computer geek

check belt and motor windings

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When you press start button the signal is sent to the main board. The leak is from a bad bellow that rubber on you door, if your door is not damage. it's not sealing with the door.

becouse the water in drum machine not spining,,chek the drain motor,properly,,

water discharge drain $50 part, easy installation. google the lg model to locate part.

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

Check the heating element for continuity. Here is the part if you find it bad.

On the front at the bottom left is a rectangular panel that you pop off. (I use 1/2 a wooden laundry clip so as not to scratch finish.) Have a bowl or a bucket handy and perhaps a towel or two. There is a tube clipped to the washer. Detach from washer and unplug it and let water drain into your bowl. When water stops flowing, plug and reattach. Then (with towels ready) turn the the pump filter counter-clockwise (the circle to the right of the tube) until it comes out. More water will drain in this process. Clean the filter of any foreign objects. Replace and turn clockwise until it won't turn any more.

You will need to check the drain filter for obstuctions, bra wires,coins hair cilps etc. You will need a low tray to catch the water, there is a front flap that pulls open on the bottom front corner of machine. Find the small black rubber tube with a white stopper, unclip and gentally pull it out of machine, unplug and drain water into tray, this will take some time unless you can move the machine outside to drain,that means removing the knob next to the rubber tube, unscrew. anti clock wise, watch out for a flood of water . if something is jammed you may have too pull on the knob . Only goes back in one way. Reverse to put back together.

There are two philip-head screws that have to be removed from the back of the unit. One of these screws is on the left side and the other is on the right side.

Once these two screws have been removed, you will want to push/slide the washer's top panel backwards (towards the back of the unit). It might be a little hard to move at first, but it will slide backwards with a little bit of force. Once the top has move back about 6" to 10", you can lift the top off of the unit.

The dispenser is on the left side.

Water maybe stale and mold maybe building inside the seal for the door. Use bleach water and a washrag and clean the seal and run a just bleach and soap load through the washer on its hottest setting to kill anything you can reach or wipe down. Do this whenever you feel its not clean to your standards.

Is this a ventless dryer? I.e. a condensing dryer?
If so, there is a filter that filters the lint out of the water in the condensing unit. Check your owner's manual to find out how to service this. It is usually a little door on the front, bottom of the unit.
If it is not a ventless dryer, then the only filter I know is the lint screen.

Good Luck!

I had the same problem, I changed the water discharge pump and the drain problem was fixed. I still have the loud sound during the wash cycle but it does not coincide with the drum movement. I think a will pull the wash pump to check for lint buildup. people cleaning the lint trap will avoid alot of unnecessary headaches.

The pump seems to be a weak link as mine failed twice in 4 years (it's the drain pump, not the spray pump by the way). The impeller spins loose from the motor shaft and no longer pumps. The repair requires pulling the top, front and drum seal clamp (that was the toughest part) and r/r the pump. Part cost was about $40. I believe when the lint builds in the trap it causes a vacuum to build on the impeller and drags it loose. Keep a cleaning schedule on the lint plug and that should help.

My brand new one is doing it only after 1 week. I'm also interested in it. I'm thinking of pulling it apart and watching it and trying to find out where it's coming from exactly.

just give it a really good tug,it will open.

Had the same problem here today, the softener dispenser blue plastic piece was loose jamming the whole dispenser tray, to resolve remove top cover, two screws on top rear, slide the cover towards the back, you will then see the detergent dispenser, press the right clips and pull it off slightly at the back; do not put too much pressure and try to remove the cover completely, just pry the plastic cover a bit then pull the detergent tray it should come right out.

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