LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

indicates a bad or clogged pump or sump?

not just yet? still need to check other items? the timer, the push start? etc buying a new board may not solve ur issue less ur sure of the cause, the door actuator may be stuck closed however cant see how it would effect the start staying continually on so I would check both out at the least

LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE; LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights. THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it. THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS, THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced. The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs. A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket. In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions. If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced. Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel. All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair. Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well. If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it. Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good! GRINDING NOISES: The plastic drive is known as a splutch (splined clutch). One problem with these washers has been loosening of the nut that locks the pulley to the agitator input shaft. If it gets loose, the pulley drops and the teeth no longer have good contact with the teeth of the splutch basket drive gear in spin mode. The solution is application of blue locktite to the threads of the input shaft. There have also been a lot of failures of the actuator that operates the cam ring of the splutch which raises and lowers the basket drive gear. It is raised for agitate mode and lowered for spin. There is a spring between the basket drive gear and the gearcase housing that maintains pressure on the basket drive gear. There are cams on the cam ring that ride up and down on cams in the splutch cam (housing) as it is rotated by the actuator thus raising and lowering the basket drive gear. The gearcase has a planetary gear set in it.

Washer fills with water then drains: The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch) If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design. If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more. Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning. Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine. Try raising the hose and see what happens. Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit. Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation. Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS. And in some modern washers that come with THERMISTORS: One symptom of a washing machine that thinks it's overheating and thus fills and drains at same time ( possibly because of a faulty thermistor) is if it's filling with cold water and pumping out at the same time. This is covered in this articleWashing machine fills and drains at same timealthough the same symptom can be caused by other faults. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

No spin, or lite spin try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Or try the hand test: If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day. - put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand - turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin - if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand - if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage. next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer. Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

If you have a beeper button on your washing machine, you can press it a number of times to increase, or decrease the volume level.

It sounds like a serious fault if there is no power the fuse has gone or some item has burnt out . You will have to arrange for a service engineer to look at it more closely.

Two things might be wrong with this unit.  One problem is there is a blockage inside the hose that sends water into drum.  Make sure that's clear.  The other problem is the dispenser assembly may have a leaking problem and will spray water at an angle that will cause it to leak through the dispenser drawer.  My recommendation is to have the dispenser assembly inspected and possibly replaced.

More than likely it did not get reinstalled right after the move. All four of the leveling legs must be firmly touching the floor. If one is even the thickness of a piece of paper off the floor it will start to rock during spin and the problem just amplifies itself. Make sure it's perfectly level and that all the feet are firmly on the floor.

It is not uncommon for items that get loose in the washer (paper clips, coins, etc.) to slip underneath the "paddles" and then make noise as the drum turns. While an annoyance, it is not anything to be overly concerned about. Eventually the item(s) will come back out.

No agitation? if when clothes in it but spins with no clothes, I d say a bad motor with bad windings? OTHERWISE first use a meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good. now take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphram to not open. If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler or belt if belt driven.check with a multi meter for continuity the door switch, and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator. No spin, try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

check ur water inlet valve ur water pressure switch and even ur control board

is it belt driven? or direct drive? belt or motor coupler, tub or tranny bearings

no error codes?? i would check the motor position sensor(the hall sensor). its easy to look at. just back access panel off. then remove 17mm bolt. remove motor disc. remove 5 bolts, remove stator. look at sensor to see if in place. check out how to do on appliancepartspros.com, repairclinic.com, or youtube.com.

Insufficient water entering washer. Clogged filter. Water not fully turned on. There is a filter in back of water line where hose connects to washer. You might also have a filter where hose connects to faucet.

http://www.lg.com/us/support-product/lg-WM2277HW I don't see it, make them earn their money.

never herd of it

replace with a new one

check pump for any blockage

2 screws back top corners