Top 20 LG WM-1832C Front Load Washer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

your valve is not closing or your cycle isn't reading correctly. there should have been a diagnostic read process that should have came with the machine. if not you may have to end up buying a new drian assembly

It is best to re-install the four shipping bolts in the back of the machine during the move. If you don't have them, contact a dealer. Please don't rate, as anything but a Fix-Ya lowers my score. Thanks.

LE is a locked motor error. Not to worry as 95% of the time it is just a bad hall sensor (the motor position sensor). For your model the part number is 6501KW2002A.

You can order parts by your location by CLICKING HERE

your drain hose is in the drain tube to far, pull out the hose and only put it in about four inches into the pipe. when you drain line is in to far the hose get a syhpon effect from your sewer.

This can be caused by pushing the washer in place which can slightly bend the front panel inward (the fix would be to remove the outer clamp, outer tub seal, pull the panel slightly out, and reinstall the seal and clamp) or it might be cured with simply moving the spring part of the clamp from the bottom (6 O'clock position) to the hinge side (9 O'clock position).

you should ( ifyou have, reinstalla the origianl shipping brackets) thiswill preventthe machine from bouncingaround internally

I had this problem with another model LG washer dryer and the problem was just the tiny switch (6mm x 6mm) on the circuit board had worn out. They cost about 30 pence on eBay and are very easy to remove and re-solder onto the circuit board as there are only 2 pins. This saved a huge amount of money for a new control board.

i checked you have a defective door latch,,replace

You should have access to the sides of the drum. Attatch foam to the either the drum or he outside casing.
The problem is caused by the drum moving too much (because of the defective dampers).
This is a cheaper fix than replacement dampers.

Hi,
This is fairly easy to do, although you need to find some suitable foam - two pieces about 8" square and probably 3" - 4" thick.
You will also need a suitable adhesive, which could be spray carpet adhesive, copydex, or silicone sealant.

Turn off and unplug the machine, "walking" it out slowly if it's under a counter. Do not strain the water hoses too much.
Undo the few screws along the top at the back that holds the lid on, then slide the lid back an inch and lift off.

There should be some foam buffers in there already - but may have fallen off. Retrieve them if they have, but fit your bigger ones instead to leave maybe a finger width gap each side of the drum.

Make sure any springs on the top you can see are ok while you're there.

Once fitted, refit the lid and screw back, then push back the machine from very low down - check hoses are not squashed, and the outlet hose is ok.

Turn on again.

Mike, you don't need to yse any glue cause it is a press fit bearing. I had to do the same thing. I was able to go to my local bearing supply for replacements. And it was much cheaper that going to an online place to buy them. It pay s to search.

Jim

I am having the same problem with my washer. Go to this web site below it has a free troubleshooting guide. I narrowed my washer machine down to two parts. Stator assy or Main PWB assy.


http://136.166.4.200/contents/Laundry/WM2042/WM2042xx_Service_Manual.pdf

The brand of your front loader is not that material on this issue. What is happening is that your old top load washer may have used as much as 45 gallons of water per cycle, while some front loaders use as little as 12. Because of the low water use, you must cut back on the additives you are using. Use only 1 tablespoon of HE detergent (even less if 2x or 3x detergent) per load. If you use fabric softener, use only 1 teaspoon per load. Odor on clothes after wash is indicating that the detergent and or softener has not been fully rinsed out. If you throw a load of washed towels into your machine and start a cycle without any soap, then stop the cycle, you should not see any suds. If you do, there is obviously soap left in the clothes. With bath towels, the towels are used to absorb clean water off a clean body. They do not need soap when you wash them, and never use fabric softener on towels.
If your washer is a LG WM-1832 it has a assessable filter behind the access door on the lower left front of the machine. Clean that out first, and if it has a tub clean or sanitary cycle use that cycle (if not, use hottest longest cycle available) with 3 Affresh tablets or use whirlaway to clean out the washer outer tub (the not visible tub that holds the water). You might want to use another cycle like that with bleach to head off mold or mildew growth. Use of proper amount of detergent and fabric softener should really help the clothes odor issue from then on. Also check the tub seal at the bottom of the door area to clean out any lint from drain hole areas to help prevent water from remaining in the tub seal area.

Hi, I don't know if this is much help to you now as it has been a while since you posted your problem. I had the exact same problem and after a lot of swearing and 2 days and no help what so ever from LG I took matters into my own hands.

I took the top off the the machine and removed the small steel plate, you will know what I am talking about after you have done the same.

I had my hubby hold the tub back as far as possible and used a screw driver to release the latch which is at the front of the machine about half way down. You will see a small silver steel knobby looking thing. After the machine was finally opened I unscrewed the screws on the inside of the door and used a flat screw driver to prise the housing apart. Be careful not to drop the glass window as when the housings start coming apart the window is no longer secure.

I found that a small piece of plastic on the handle had perished and broken not allowing the correct function. A phone call to Sunstate spare parts got the new handle to me within a few days at a cost of $20.95.

My only problem now is putting the bloody thing back together. I have been at it for 3 days with no sucess. If you manage to work out how to put yours together please let me know. I hope this has helped and hasnt come too late.
Cherie.

Sounds like the water inlet valve is trying to let water into machine, but the screen inside the vavle, right where the hose screws onto the machine, is blocked. Take cold water hose off machine and pull out screen inside valve. Clean, reinstall. Check that your hose does not have a plugged screened hose washer in either end while you're at it.

I bought a switch in Portugal by €7,5 and ...nothing. I bought a drain pump €18 and still not working. I have consult one tecnical expert by phone were i bought the pices and he said tha could be the pwc board (€75). Here in Portugal they quote €25 to come and €30 per first hour...I decided and I bought a new Lg with direct drive but I stored the old Lg (6 years old, without problems, and working 2 times per week)...if you try... and it works tell me ok ? Good Luck.

If you haven't gotten a solution yet, I did this myself. It is pretty hard to remove the spring that is holding the gasket in place. Once you do that, just replace the gasket and reattach the ring w/spring.

I have the LG WM3988HWA, which is a washer and dryer in one. The way it works on ours is that you press and hold the Spinsense button for 3 seconds before you start a wash, or while a wash is paused. When Spinsense is on, the LCD will say "Spinsense" on the right-hand side when the machine is running. Nothing happens with the light on the Spinsense button.

Spinsense makes a huge difference as the machine is on the second floor of our old wooden house. I don't even notice the spin cycle with Spinsense on.

Problems:
1. We need to turn it on for every load. This is just annoying.
2. Spinsense will not turn on when you've the Dryer option activated. This means we have to do two trips to the machine for each load, or have our house feel like it's shaking to pieces. There's no good reason that the Spinsense/Dryer shouldn't work.

Usually, the door will not unlock because there is water still inside the unit.  You will need to get the water out of the tub to get the door to open.  On the bottom left corner, there is a small door.  Inside the door is a small rubber drain hose.  This will empty out the water inside.  After awhile, the machine will unlock the door.

The washer is not leveled correctly.  You will need to adjust the front feet to level the machine.  Run a load of clothes in the washer.  When it gets to the spin mode, check the level of the machine by pushing the front left corner and the front right corner.  If the noise quiets down on either corner of the machine, adjust the legs on that side.