LG Direct Drive bearing replacement
The following guide is written to help you assess if
replacing the bearings is a job you can undertake and complete. This is
not written to be specific to any particular direct drive model but it
will help in all cases.
Must do's
Before commencing work on an electrical appliance:
1) Unplug the appliance from the wall socket, ensure the appliance on/off switch is in the off position.
2) Turn off the inlet water at the isolation valves and disconnect the inlet hoses from the appliance.
3) Clear a space and plan where you are going to put items you remove from the appliance.
4) Have pen and paper handy for making notes, a digital
camera is ideal for taking a picture of wiring connections for future
reference (**PHOTO**)
Strip down
1) Remove the worktop by undoing 2 screws at the rear, slide backwards and lift off.
2) FROM THE BACK.....Remove the back panel (4 screws)
giving access to the rear of the tub unit. Disconnect the wiring to the
motor, thermostat and heater, disconnect earth wires, (**PHOTO**). The
drum pulley, which is the ROTOR of the direct drive system has a single
bolt to undo. Slacken this bolt a turn or two, DO not remove
completely. Gently tap the bolt with a soft faced hammer or drift, this
will assist in the removal of the Rotor. Remove the bolt and remove the
rotor, careful as it has a series of magnets around its inner
circumference. The stator of the direct drive system is now in front of
you, there are 6 bolts holding it in place. Remove these and very
carefully remove the stator without damaging it, its very expensive,
look after it. Depending on your model there could be a spacer between
the stator and the tub unit, if so remove this also.
3) FROM THE FRONT.....Open the filter door (left side
of kick plate) if there is a small drain hose, remove stopper and drain
off any water in there. There is 1 screw to remove which is at the side
of the filter, then slide the kick plate sideways should release the
plinth from the cabinet. Open the door, the seal clamp band that
secures the door gasket to the cabinet should be removed. If the door
seal has a further hose attached, remove it.
4)
Read all of this paragraph, there are 2 versions.....Remove
3 screws holding the lower edge of the front panel to the cabinet.
Remove the soap drawer, remove 2 screws in the control panel that
secure the soap box, depending on model there could be a third in the
lower right hand corner, if there is, remove it. If there isn't read on
further.. Carefully slide the front panel downwards about 20mm and it
will disengage from the cabinet, carefully look behind it and
disconnect the door lock wiring to allow complete removal. If there was
not a third screw (lower right hand corner of the control panel) then
the control panel will have to be removed. From the top remove the clip
retaining the hose that goes into the top of the tub unit, remove the
clip holding the large hose on the left, slide the soap box backwards
slightly and hang over the back of the cabinet, all the hoses still
connected. To remove the control panel look under the top frame and
release the two lugs whilst easing the panel away from the cabinet.
disconnect the wiring and remove away completely.
5) From the bottom remove the sump hose from the tub,
the screw that secures the pressure bottle to the tub. Remove the
suspension pins from the top position of the legs and push the legs
clear of the tub unit. The tub unit will now be hanging from the top
springs. Using strong wire or rope, loop the hook of the spring, lift
clear of the cabinet and lower the tub unit to the floor. Repeat this
on the other spring which then allows the tub unit to be lifted through
the front of the cabinet.
6) Place the tub unit door seal up, remove the screws
that secure tub front 1/2 to the rear 1/2. This allows the inner drum
to be removed, if its tight use soft faced hammer, DO NOT damage the
drum shaft.
Inspect the drum shaft collar, the collar is located
at the base of the shaft and is the surface that the oil seal mates to.
Look for indents or circular ruts where the previous seal has worn the
collar away
if damaged you will need a new spider unit. Do not
clean up using abrasive cloth, try the green pan scrubber from the
kitchen instead. If damaged and you don't replace it the bearing
replacement will fail prematurely as the oil seal fails to keep the
wash water away.
There are several different kits, comprising of 2
bearings and 1 oil seal. To obtain the correct kit you will need the
model number of your appliance, eg
WM1480FHD or
WM1485FHD or
WM16225FD
all use bearing kit 1
available here other kits are available for other models including belt drives and washer dryers
The bearings can now be removed, the seats cleaned and
made ready for the new bearings and water seal. A light cover of grease
can be smeared on the inner edge of the seal.
7) There is a tub seal which fits in the recess between
the front and rear 1/2's of the tub unit, it is adviseable to renew
that seal before rebuild is commenced.
8) Rebuild is a reversal of the above, at every step
double check electrical and hose connections and before you refit the
cabinet front.
Hope you find this guide useful, some paragraphs can be applied to the belt drives also.