20 Most Recent Watts Onan Portable Generator - 5000 , Model# 6500 Questions & Answers


Alternately,



• Turn-off all lights first.

Run your pump or water start motor.



• When the motor is running,

Turn on the lights , one at a time.

Watts Onan... | Answered on Dec 28, 2018


12 V going to the pump, but is it turning (do you hear it running). If not change it.

Watts Onan... | Answered on Feb 12, 2015


You have voltage,but not Amps.Voltage plus Amps = Power
Charge the Battery .
No amps, low power,its why makes only clicking sounds.

Watts Onan... | Answered on Sep 03, 2014


I don't understand your question. Are you asking if 147 VOLTS is too much at the receptacle? If so, yes - that's too much. Are you asking if 147 amps is too much to expect from your generator? If so, yes, that's far too much.

Watts Onan... | Answered on Jul 27, 2014


There are many possible reasons from stator output voltage to sensing, to fuel to control boards. A good place to start (as the unit does run) would be with the fuel system, if it has sat a long time it won't help. Also the fuel filter. try conencting to an external fuel tank versus the vehicles, as sometimes pick up tubes in main tanks can be an issue. Also check the correct oil level and viscosity / and oil pressure switch. Failing that I recommend a service center, as there really are so many causes, I cannot list all on here.

Watts Onan... | Answered on Nov 16, 2013


This generator has a built in transfer switch. If you do not have an external source of 240 volts going in to the unit (utility power), the transfer switch will show a fault or "abnormal" reading. If you do have utility power going in to the transfer switch, and the generator is on then you have a faulty transfer switch. It is time to warranty or get a replacement switch.

Watts Onan... | Answered on Oct 18, 2013


This is called hunting and it is because the load sensor is not working

Watts Onan... | Answered on May 19, 2013


ONANS ARE PRETTY QUIRKY AS IT IS NOT CONSUMER FRIENDLY. THE GENSET IS DESIGNED FOR ROUTINE AND SIMPLE MAINTENANCE PERFORMED BY THE OWNER, AFTER THAT, U WILL NEED TO TAKE IT TO THE NEAREST DEALER OR CUMMINS DIESEL REPAIR SHOP.

Watts Onan... | Answered on May 08, 2013


Steve,

The microwave alone shouldn't cause a problem for the generator as even the most powerful models run about 1200 watts or about 10 amps. An air conditioner on the other hand, can draw considerably more power to run depending on BTU size; 15 amps and up is not uncommon (and even twice as much as that though only briefly when starting).

If these were the only things connected and on, the generator should be able to handle them - again depending on the BTU size of the AC unit. Generators state their capacity in Watts, but must of the devices we connect are in Amps. Calculating Watts in an AC circuit is complicated, but pretty close to the much easier Watts in a DC circuit for most residential settings. Here's how it's done:

Watts = volts x amps. Pretty simple stuff. Your generator is rated at 5500 watts. The microwave is say, 120 volts / 10 amps - which equals 1200 watts. The generator has 4300 capacity available now. Suppose your air conditioner is rated at 120 volts / 15 amps - which equals 1800 watts. 4300watts - 1800watts = 2400watts capacity is left. But, the starting current for the AC is as much as 25 amps for a few seconds (and once started drops back to 15 amps) - which means there's only 1200 watts capacity left. Add up the rest of the appliances you're running at the same time (TV set, Cable / Satellite box, stereo, toaster, lights, computer, etc.- you get the idea), and you can see how you might have exceeded the 5500 watts capacity of the generator for a few seconds. It's at these times that your hear / see the generator speed falter and sputter, lights dim, etc.. If this is happening a lot, you may need a larger or additional generator.

I hope this helps and good luck!

Watts Onan... | Answered on Apr 23, 2013


Are you getting any kind of voltage output at all?

Watts Onan... | Answered on Feb 11, 2013


Right here you go. www.cumminsonan.com/www/pdf/specsheets/a-1509.pdf

Watts Onan... | Answered on Aug 13, 2012


To determine if it is from the breaker use a

Tong Tester


These would indicate what current is being consumed by the load.

Watts Onan... | Answered on Jul 30, 2012


Have you replaced the solinoid too? If not, maybe the solinoid is staying engaged, which keeps your starter, well starting. If the starter stays energised the flywheel WILL tear up the starter gear.


hope this helps

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matt_8dbc24bf722649ac

Watts Onan... | Answered on Apr 12, 2012


Sounds like a flat battery.

Watts Onan... | Answered on Apr 12, 2012


I would need some more information that you list the complete model & serial numbers of the unit you are asking for information about, so I can help with you the correct answers. Serial number should be on the name plate of the engine for the engine.

Watts Onan... | Answered on Dec 08, 2011


Hi ever34f..

Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and cranking the engine over and watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
Take a picture for later reference for reassembly.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor, I would also recommend that you take a picture of the linkage for reference.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
If the generator is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.

Watts Onan... | Answered on Sep 19, 2011


Here are the most common reasons for your condition.

CHECK IF ENGINE KEEPS RUNNING The most common complaint is that the engine starts but will not keep running when the START switch is released. This happens because the control board will not allow the engine to continue running if the generator is not producing voltage or if the oil pressure signal is not present. See CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING on the Troubleshooting Chart for your model. If the engine will not keep running, do the following:
A1. Generator AC Output Check the generator AC output voltage as soon as the engine starts. Models showing "B1-B2 Volts" or "L1 AC Volts" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING need this AC voltage to keep running. Read between the points shown on the Troubleshooting Chart. If the AC voltage readings are good, proceed to "B" below.
A2. Field Flash If there is no AC, check for 10-12 VDC at the FIELD FLASH pin of the control board during cranking. If the field flash voltage is not present, the control board is defective. If the field flash voltage is present, the wiring or regulator may be defective. To eliminate the wiring, check continuity between the FIELD FLASH pin of the control board and pin 7 of the regulator. If the continuity is good, either the regulator or the field circuit (rotor and brushes) may be the problem.
A3 Field Circuit Check the field circuit by unplugging the regulator and measuring the resistance between pins 9 and 10 of the regulator’s mating plug. This reading should be 22 to 28 ohms. If this reading is too high, check the brushes and/or clean the slip rings (use the Slick Stick, or a similar tool). If this reading is too low, there may be a short in the rotor. Also, check the resistance from pins 9 and 10 to ground. This reading should be very high or infinity. If not, there is likely a ground in the rotor. If these readings are all good, the regulator is likely defective.
3
A4 External Excitation To confirm that the regulator is defective, turn off the generator’s AC circuit breaker(s), reconnect the regulator and apply 12 volts through a diode to pin 9 of the regulator plug (see illustration) while attempting to start the engine. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt this without the diode. If you do, there will be fireworks! Remove the 12 volts within 1-2 seconds after the engine starts. If the genset now continues to run and produces normal AC voltage, the generator is OK and the regulator is defective. If the genset does not continue to run but produces about 40% of normal AC voltage, again the generator is OK and the regulator is defective. If no AC voltage is produced, the generator may have a problem that is beyond the scope of this guide. Re-check all wiring for security and signs of damage. It may be necessary to take the unit to a qualified repair shop.
B. Check the oil pressure switch as soon as the engine starts. Models showing "LOP to GND" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING need the oil pressure switch to be closed to ground when running. If the voltage on the LOL/LOP SW pin of the control does not go to near zero, the switch is not closing. These switches sometimes stick open if the generator has not been used or exercised often enough. Multiple start/stop cycles and/or tapping on the oil pressure switch will sometimes fix it. It may be necessary to temporarily jumper the switch to ground to keep the engine running. This can be done at the switch or at the OIL LOL/LOP SW pin on the control board. Models showing "LOP Open" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING have electronic governors and require the low oil pressure switch to be closed at starting but open during running. When the switch opens, the governor module places a ground on the oil pressure input of the control board (P1-5). It is OK to temporarily ground P1-5 on this model to keep the engine running. NOTE: See chart for oil pressure and oil level switch locations.
C. If there is AC voltage present on B1-B2 or L1 AC, as applicable, and the correct oil pressure/level signal is present at the OIL LOL/LOP SW input of the control board, and the engine will not keep running, the control board is defective.

This should help you get it going.

Kelly

Watts Onan... | Answered on Sep 16, 2011


Do you have an air filter on that thing? Sounds like it's straving for air.

Watts Onan... | Answered on Sep 06, 2011


red and black are power or hot wires white is netrual and green ground need a little more input ,good luck

Watts Onan... | Answered on Aug 27, 2011

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