Bike Extreme Lite Youth Shoulder Pad - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

start with the seatpost itself, most of them have the size stamped on them below the minimum insertion hash marks. It is almost always measured in metric, millimeters usually, like: 25.4mm (which is 1 inch). If the size is not stamped on the seatpost (it was most likely cut off or scratched beyond recognition) then you can measure the diameter in inches, multiply by 2.54 to get the metric measurement in centimeters, multiply that by .10 to get millimeters and then call your local bike shop for a replacement. Dyno bikes are made by GT, it was there "budget" brand of BMX bikes, so you can google GT bikes and find a local dealer or you may be able to order direct from GT. From the year of your model, most likely the bike is steel (cro-moly or hi-ten) and these bikes normally have a smaller seatpost size, like the above mentioned 25.4mm. Aluminum frames usually have larger diameter tubes with thinner wall thickness and will require a larger diameter seatpost.

I'm going to assume you that when you say, "bike seat stem" you mean "seat post". I'm also going to assume that the bike frame is made of steel and the seat post is most likely chromed steel. What most likely is the problem (absent of more details) is that the seat post has rusted to the inside of the frame. If the bike is stored outside this is a very common problem on less expensive bikes. I have never heard of a bike manufacturer putting any kind of paint or other anti-corrosion inside of the bike frame to prevent rust. You can try spraying a little "Liquid Wrench" or WD40 oil on the seat post where it inserts into the frame. Let it sit over night and then tap it with a mallet to try to break the rust free. Use a pair of Channel Lock pliers to get a bite on it and see if you can twist it out. On a steel bike the very last resort to use, if you by all means have to have that seat post out, is to apply heat to it, with a propane or oxy-acetylene torch. This will probably destroy the paint job and weaken the seat post. If the bike frame is aluminum, you can get something similar to galvanic corrosion and this can seize the seat post in the frame. The remedy is the same as with the steel frame (but excessive heat and easily melt aluminum very quickly and leave a puddle of molten metal on the garage floor). If the frame is carbon fiber and the seat post is aluminum, carbon and aluminum don't like to touch each other and they will start a natural chemical reaction of corrosion which could cause the two to stick together (don't ever use a flame on a carbon fiber bike, it would be the end of the bike and just plain stupid). Anytime aluminum touches carbon or titanium an anti-seize compound should be applied to the parts. Once you have the seat post removed, use your finger to wipe grease inside the seat tube and on the seat post before reinserting it and you won't have this problem again.

That sounds like a manufacturing defect without seeing it. You may consider returning to where you purchased it. New bikes generally come with a one year warranty against manufacturing defects and materials, so if it is new then they should be able to give you a new part. Most professional bike shops have a set of what are called "H" tools that are designed to align dropouts on front forks and the rear drop outs. If a bike mechanic has been properly trained and has the experience then he/she will know how to use them. However these tools are not recommended for use on front shock drop outs. Most shocks have the sliders with the drop outs cast into them. They are usually cast out of aluminum. Cast aluminum has a very low yield point and will easily break and snap in two if they are bent. The "H" tools mentioned above are designed to be used on forks and drop outs made from steel, which has a much higher modulus of elasticity or yield point, and they can be bent, tweaked and coaxed back into alignment without compromising the metal. Front shock lower sliders are held together and aligned at the factory with a "U" type brace that goes over the tire. This allows the two legs of the shocks to travel in unison. Most front shocks have these two sliders and the U brace cast as one piece to eliminate the need for manual alignment of the drop outs. So if one of your drop outs is tweaked so that the wheel doesn't fit, then it most likely got damaged in shipping and I would have to assume that you did not purchase it assembled from a local (to you) bike shop. You may need to take it up with the shipping company or with where you originally purchased the bike to get this rectified.

first off, there are two kinds of disk brakes on bicycles; cable actuated and hydraulic. Your adjustment will be very different depending upon which type you have. If you don't know what type you have it is easy to tell, there will be a brake cable sticking out the end of the caliper if they are cable actuated. If they are hydraulic, you won't see any cables on the calipers. I can tell you now if you have hydraulic brakes you may not want to attempt this at home. They require a special bleeding kit specific to the particular brand and model that you might have. You will also need special brake fluid depending upon the brand of brakes, they are not universal, some use mineral oil others use particular DOT fluids. Additionally if you have hydraulic brakes and the levers are going all the way to the handlebars, then it sounds like you may have a bigger problem and have air in the lines and need a brake bleed job. If you have cable actuated disc brakes then you can easily adjust them yourself with only a 5mm Allen wench. First, run out the cable barrel adjuster on your brake lever until it is almost out. Second, using the 5mm Allen wrench, loosen (don't remove) the cable clamp at the caliper. Now hold the cable end in one hand and push the actuating lever up until the pads contact the rotor. It is spring loaded so you will have to hold it in place with one, pull the cable through and then tighten the cable clamp. Third, go back to the brake lever and you should not have any "play" in the lever or very little. Turn the cable barrel adjuster back into the brake lever and this will ease the brake pads off the rotor and allow the wheel to turn freely. Often it will take several minute cable adjustments to get it right. If the rotor is rubbing on the inner brake pad, you can adjust that pad in or out using the 5mm Allen wrench. The inner pad is "fixed" and doesn't move when the brakes are applied. You can access the Allen head bolt through the spokes with the long end of the wrench and make minor adjustments of 1/4 turn at a time. It could be tight, so you might need to put a box end wrench on the end of the Allen wrench to turn it. Hope this helps and post any further questions.

1) Replace the chain. 2) Adjust the travel of the front and rear derailer. 3) Make sure the rear wheel is set properly in the rear fork.

You have to remove the entire wheel from the bike. Then change it just like you'd change a front tire... remove oneside of the tire from the rim, pull out bad tube, clean rim, put in new tube, put tire back on rim, inflat tube... good to go. There are 1,000,000 videos on YouTube to show you this process.

You usually need a pedal wrench. They are thin and easily slid on the pedal nut. 17mm or 19mm typically, depending on bike/pedal size.

Why is laptop battery not holding a charge?maybe the article will give you some help

Hydrolic: Set the tappet at its lowest point by rolling the rear wheel with the bike in gear (on a stand of course.) Adjust the push rod until there is no shake. Load the tappet 4 full turns. The push rod will be tight. Wait at least 15 minutes before moving to the next one to allow the pressure to dissapate. Don't want to bend a pushrod or valve. Repeat for all 4 push rods.

Solids: Same as above but push rod should spin freely without any up/down slop. No need to wait for the bleed off. Go right on to the next one.

I have a Vital Fitness RB-350 as well. I suggest going to your local Radio Shack and purchasing an AC/DC Adaptor from them. The original Adaptor is 120V AC 60Hz Input and the Output is 6V DC at 500mA current.

I don't know how to get the Original Replacement Adaptor from Vital Fitness. I recently moved and could not find my adaptor, then finally found it. In the process I tried to find info on the co online, attempted to call their defunct cust. svc number, called the store where I purchased the Bike to no avail, BBB.com does not give any relevant info on them. Through reading online I see that they were part of a Spain group. Any way... I could not find any parts avail from their Spain Site. I guess if you contacted that firm, possibly they could give you the info you need to get an Original Replacement Adaptor. If you did not want to take my word for it, you could dis-assemble, partially, your unit, so that you could see the motor. On the motor, it should indicate it's Voltage and Current demands. I have not disassembled mine, but that is the standard in the US... dunno if the US somehow allows china to skip on those standards or not. I don't think so. Pardon my ignorance on this point. I imagine that they also have to abide by UL standards.

Lay it on the ground, gently pull the hoop and turn the screw.

Hi Linda, i have the same 1983 Travelaire motorhome Econoline F-350 26ft and are in search of the Shop/owners manual ... Do you know where to find one ? I am located in BC Canada Reg 250-379-2971 [email protected] if you can contact me ?

This website has a fabulous guide to picking out a tennis racket!http://www.wilson.com/en-us/tennis/rackets/racket-selector/

English only on Fixya please.

Ozark Trail Tent User Manuals Download

ManualsLib https://www.manualslib.com > ... > Ozark Trail Manuals Download 66 Ozark Trail Tent PDF manuals. User manuals, Ozark Trail Tent Operating guides and Service manuals. https://www.google.com/search?q=Ozark+Trail+HK-5100+tent+instructions ..

Good day are you referring to the human body, if so the femur is located in the thigh.

It sounds like a controller error. Contact the maker for warranty support. https://www.google.com/search?q=Hover+1+Journey+foldable+scooter ..

Help in the link, but nothing specific to yours. They all work to a theme and there is full instructions for Spiniflex Albany and contains their contact details.

spinifex - Anaconda

anacondastores.com https://www.anacondastores.com > medias > Spi... PDF Read all instructions before set up. Select a level site clear of rocks, branches, and other hard or sharp objects, to install your tent. https://www.google.com/search?q=spinifex+huon+tent+instructions ..

Go to an auto parts store and buy a fiberglass kit. Resin, hardener and cloth. Clean and rough the area. apply a coating of mixed resin, then a layer of cloth. Let it dry and repeat a couple of times. After you are satisfied with that get a gallon of Elastomeric, you will find it at Lowes/Home depot. Clean the entire top and apply 2 coats with a brush or roller about 24 hours apart. No rain or moisture for a couple of days. Project complete, water proof roof.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ni-trac7+cross+trainer+user%27s+manual ..

I am also looking for the 161-17225 manual. Did you finally find it ?