20 Most Recent Samsung RS2578BB Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Sounds like your Samsung RS21 has devoloped a known fault.
Your frdige will be cold in the drawers but not cold above this? Also there is ice around the pipe behind the drawers. it is the ice hitting the fan that is the noise and eventually stops the fan which pushes the cold air around the frdige.Samsung have extended their warranty to 5 years to cover for this.
You need to call the Samsung customer care team 0845 7267864 and should be repaired free of charge. - mine was. When you call, you need the full model number and serial number. my serial number was on the outside left hand side of the fridge. The engineer comes out within a day or 2.

Fridge FAN CONTINUALLY STAYS ON OR SHUTS OFF WHEN DOOR IS OPENED: NORMALLY WHEN THIS HAPPENS U EITHER HAVE A DOOR CONTINUALLY OPEN ISSUE OR A BAD DOOR SEAL LETTING AIR IN AND CAUSING FAN TO OVERWORK ITSELF. ANOTHER CAUSE CAN BE DIRTY COILS AND CONDENSER AND LASTLY NOT TO COMMON IS A SHORT IN THE FAN SYSTEM ITSELF. A MORE PROBABLE CAUSE COULD BE BAD THERMISTORS OR EVEN COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT ( WHEN THE THERMISTORS OR THERMOSTAT DO NOT GET/GIVE A PROPER READING, THEY CAN CAUSE THE FAN TO CONTINUE TO OPERATE AS THEY FAIL TO RECOGNIZE OR REGULATE THE PROPER TEMPERATURE. Ice Maker Doesn't Turn Off If your ice maker keeps making ice, even when it is full: 1Lift the bail wireto shut off the ice maker, and remove the ice bin. Then, using a screwdriver if necessary, remove the ice maker, clean it thoroughly, and then reinstall it. 2If the problem persists,consider removing and replace the entire ice maker and valve. With this type of problem, you can have it repaired, but it's often wiser and less expensive in the long run to replace the unit entirely. Ice Maker Is Frozen Up This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out: 1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker. 2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip). 3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts. 4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube. On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks. How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker. Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up.

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.

remove cube tray from ice maker. clean with limeaway adn rinse. Spray with a light coating of PAM cooking spray. wipe dry and reinstall. be careful not to damage the sensor ( in center of tray)

DO NOT tell samsung you had the power outage they will void your warranty just happened to me, I have a code 34 blinking also

Not cooling is probably dirty coil. Try cleaning the coil with a long thin paintbrush and vacuum. Be sure to unplug fridge first.

in fresh food side or freezer. please describe.

I'm sorry to say , you have to remove the door inner skin to get to it it's a real pain but it's the only way. Undo all the screws you can feel and see, once you have done that gently remove the skin from the rubber gasket. Once you replaced it put it all back and all should be good.