20 Most Recent Makita 10" Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw Questions & Answers

Try this ... http://www.constructionknowledge.net/public_domain_documents/Div_6_Woods_Plastics/Partial%20Carpentry%20pdfs/Finishing_Roofs_NAVEDTRA_14044.pdf

Hello stella....... There is a locking mechanism on the miter saw to lock it on whatever setting you require. loosen that locking mechanism and the saw should move for you. Here is a schematic of the parts so you can see exactly which parts are involved

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Makita-Parts/Saw-Parts/Model-LS1220/1339/0744300/P8100100/00002?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

Joe

Thanks for choosing Fixya!

I have changed the blade a few times, There is no need to remove the spring, etc. All you do is remove the bolt holding the guard and rotate it counter clockwise and it exposes the blade. I am looking for parts for this saw. Anyone know where to get them?

I'd contact a Makita dealer. I've had this saw for years without a single misfire on the trigger. Could be heat related, but that's a stretch. Here's their contact information: Makita Contact Us

there are 2 black screw caps on the outside of the tool that need to be removed. USE a good quality blade and right size to avoid chipping the caps. UNPLUG TOOL first and remove the old ones and replace with new and reassemble. They might arc for a short period of time depending on the commutator wear. Run at NO LOAD for about 10 minutes. Let me know if you still have a problem

Dave,The only thing i could offer would be try and look at one like that or a Bosch that ia all ready set up. of course there;s always the option of calling the company. I love those saws my 12 inchRigid takes up too much space.Good Luck.

linear bearing problemclean them with brake cleaner and compressed airthe balls should roll freely in the grooves inside bearingspush balls into the slots with compressed air to remove the dirt and then a little bit of oil and it should work.

The brake on saws like yours are controlled by the switch. They do go bad and are easily replaced if the parts are still available. Your heading says you have a Makita tool but you didn't give the model number. If you go to the Makita home site at:www.makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Home/Default.aspxyou can put your model number in the search box and get a parts breakdown and owner's manual if they are still available. Parts are available online at sites like www.ereplacementparts.com where you can also get a parts breakdown but not manuals.

my saw had this exact same problem, here's how i fixed mine. okay so here's a schematic of the saw http://www.toolpartspro.com/image/LS...-Makita-PB.pdf whether you have the exact same issue as my saw, in order to further investigate you need to get to the mechanism that locks the saw. To do this you need to take the turn base (140) off the foot base (156) . its really not too hard, just a little awkward setting the saw in different positions to remove the various parts. Specifically on mine I had issues with the threaded rod (118) not screwing into the stopper holder (135). You'll see this part when you flip the saw upside down. So to remove the turn base(140) from the foot base (156).... Remove the kerf board (108) and under you will see a big bolt, go ahead and remove this. Then there are 4 more bolts which take off the guide rule (117), this what your piece of wood is put against when making the cut. Once these 5 bolts are out, the turn base can now be separated from the feet. Now you'll have a better view of the mechanics and see what is or isn't happening when you screw the handle to lock the miter position. Part 136 (turn stopper) is what actually wedges to a pocket in the foot base which makes the saw lock. when you screw in the handle it actuates this part. make sure that is happening. I had to take out the threaded rod (118) and tighten it on a vice and work the stopper holder (135) deeper onto the threaded rod. use WD 40 to help it a long. You'll need to take off some other various parts to to get the rod out. this will be obvious once you have everything turned over. Now that everything is apart you can blast it with some WD40 or what you think is best here. I used lithium grease. You'll see its especially important to lube up the pivot post that the 2 bases center on, (where the big bolt under the kerf board goes). also the slide plates (153) may be rusty, they'll fall out when you separate the 2 base plates. clean those up and spray them and anything else which will help with smooth movement. the only important item to check once everything is put back together is the guide rule. this can be adjusted slightly in or out of square. Get a nice framing square and make sure your locked in at 90 (or actually 0 degrees on the saw) Sliding the saw the full distance of the cut on the square is ideal and maybe this was a good time to recalibrate that movement anyway. hope this works. Ben.

Set your saw square using a combination square if you have one. Then to to adjust the saw to stay square there should be a gold coloured nut that you can adjust on the right side below the lever you use to unlock the saw when setting what angles you want to cut. Either move it in or out to get the proper setting. Hopefully this answers your question.

just found the problem, if you haven't fixed it yet let me know. There is no good way to reinstall the spring but I have done it numerous times and can talk you thru it, but you will need a press of some sort.