20 Most Recent Ford 8N Tractor - Page 3 Questions & Answers

The point gap on the 8N is 0.015".

The issue is spark yes/no. The color is not really relevant. Any spark will usually fire the mixture.

the manual said its the starter

In order of probability, you have a blown head gasket, a cracked cylinder head, or a cracked block. Pray it is the first.

A manual transmission jumping out of gear is a sign of excessive gear lash. Your transmission bearings need to be replaced before the gears are damaged. This is a BIG job.

A 12 volt system will have an alternator instead of a generator, a 12 volt ignition coil, and most importantly a 12 volt battery.

The ignition point gap is 0.015" and the spark plug gap is 0.025". More specs here: http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/2/223-ford-8n-engine.html

The problem is the carburetor is not being choked. This tractor most likely has a manual choke. Do you see a knob which you would pull to choke the carburetor ?

Are you pulling the knob when you crank the engine ? If you are pulling knob and the engine doesn't start, the choke most likley has a broken or disconnected cable.

Charlie

replace the coil

Check timing ,plugs and if it's getting gas.

The Ford 8N? Sometime between 1947 and 1954.

Hi,

Is a heavy job for even men.anyway,u have guts to do it I will guide u.
First lock all safety locks place the bucket on a proper platform for safety.lash up the lift cylinder and tilt cylinders.
This is to avoid the buckets from falling down when u drain out the hydraulic oil.
Now your know where the hydraulic tank is right.?
Just squart down and you will find a drainage ****.
Now use the proper spanner and turn it anti clockwise to unlock and u can drain it out.It will take around 30 minutes to completely be drained.
Now remove the hydraulic Filter too.Pour some new hydraulic into the tank and let it flush out the remaining contaminated hydraulic oil.
Please slowly drain out the lift cylinders and tilt cylinders.(the bottom hose on the cylinders)Then tighten hoses.
After draining out completely,u fix the drainage **** and tighten,fix a new hydraulic filter.check the grade of oil used.
It should be hyd68.anyway check the manual if you have.
Pour in about 15 to 17 liters of hydraulic into the tank.check the level and it should be slightly higher than full.
Now start the tractor engine and let the pump run with new hydraulic for 1 minute.Check whether the arms are working when levers are shifted.be careful not to break the lashings.
Now stop the engine and check the level of hydraulic.
Do not run with low hydraulic oil,this will damage the hyd.pump.Lookout for leaks and arrest the leaks.
If hud oil is in level,u can start the engine now and slow operate until your lashings become slack.
hold it there in position and remove the lashings.
Once lashings removed,u can operate the tractor.

Take extra precautions when u are doing it first time.Keep a helper or a mechanic with you to assist in locking and lashings.etc.

Check the v belting too.if loose or bad tighten or change it


ensure that you drain the milky hydraulic in a good Jerry can and dispose it in a proper area.


take care.

Starter wiring on these are pretty easy, here are the following steps...

First, disconnect the battery first before attempting any wiring repair or replacement of electrical system components. I assume the old starter has been removed, so here are the steps to wiring on the new one.
First trace the generator wire (generally a 10 or 12 guage) wire from the generator. this wire along with your positive terminal cable from the battery and a wire which runs to the "light" pull switch all connect to the left side of the starter solenoid which i on top of the starter housing. This solenoid has "2" sides. With the bracket at the rear (towards passenger seat) the left side holds the three wires discussed above. The other side should be connected to the starter itself that has a bolt on the outside. This is a ground wire. If your starter didn't come with a new start solenoid, then this ground wire from the starter will go on the right side of the solenoid. Lastly, there will be a place to mount another wire to the top of the solenoid housing. This wire will run to the push button start near the gear shift on transmission housing. After all these connection have been completed, then reattach wires to the battery, and the tractor should start. If the tractor has been stored a while, may want to drain gas and replace with new for best start, and also check all the fluids such as water, oil, and the trans/pto/and hydraulic lift fluids.

Let me know if you need anything else!

Chip

have u checkd ur point gap? And have u cleaned the needle an seat? Do u have an oil bath air cleaner, have u cleaned it lately and doesnit haventhe rite viscosity of oil in it?

They say you can use the same starter

Most oil pans have a (cork) gasket between the block and the oil pan. The gasket gets hard and sticks to both surfaces. Begin the separation with a putty knife or a gasket knife, which is more sturdy. You will need to remove all traces of the old gasket from pan and block. Maybe even use a fine sand paper or (better) emory cloth. Then you will need a new gasket. Hope this is what you needed.

Do you have a Sherman Hi/lo conversion installed on your 8n? Was curious is if you do and was wondering if it could have been inadvertenly shifted into "neutral" .? The Sherman units were installed between the engine and transmission and the only indication of their existence is a small lever located on the left hand side of the transmission housing just under the battery.

http://www.ntractorclub.com/ The link above is just one of a dozen or more very helpful websites for Ford 8n tractors. The original 8n tractor had a six volt battery with positive ground (this is different than most automobiles that have a negative ground). The starter solenoid is energized via the ignition switch and the large starter button in front of the gear shift, the small wires going to the solenoid energize a coil which "pulls in" and completes a circuit that then provides 6 volts directly to the starter motor through a large, heavy gauge wire. The smaller wires connect to the two terminals on the top of the solenoid and the heavy wire goes to the larger post on the solenoid and originates from the negative post of the battery... Hope this helps. There are many, many schematics and pictures available on the "net" The Ford 8n community is very large and extremely helpful....Good Luck

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/atrp/specs/ford.htm The above link is an excellent site for help. Can you see if the shaft is turning when you try to shift the Sherman Hi/Lo transmission.? The Sherman units are installed inside the housing between the engine and Ford transmission and I believe you would have to "split" the tractor to access actual Sherman unit. It sounds like either the Hi/lo lever is slipping on the shaft or has broken internally....good luck. Try doing a search for ( Sherman transmission Ford 8n tractor help) there are a lot of Old timer experts out there and this was a very popular addition to the 8n's

.015 for 2N, 8N & 9N The 8N also had problems with ignition switch causing several troubles, cheap and easy to replace....Below link is an excellent site. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/atrp/specs/ford.htm