Tip & How-To about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

Whirlpool Dryer Various Test Procedures - Part 1

TEST #1 Supply Connections
This test should only be done after confirming proper voltage at the outlet.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the cover plate from the back of the dryer.
3. Check that the power cord is firmly connected to the dryer’s wire harness.
4. Access the machine control electronics without disconnecting any wiring to the control board.
5. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the neutral (N) terminal of the plug and P8-3 (white wire) on the machine control board. If there is continuity, go to step 6. If there is no continuity, disconnect the white wire of the harness from the power cord. Test the continuity of the power cord neutral wire . If an open circuit is found,
replace the power cord. Otherwise, go to step 6.
6. In a similar way, check the continuity between the L1 terminal of the plug and P9- 2 (black wire) on the control board. If there is continuity, go to step 8. If there is no continuity, check the continuity of the power cord for power cord’s L1 wire. If an open circuit is found, replace the power cord. Otherwise, go to step 7.
7. Replace the main harness.
8. Visually check that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into the machine control electronics.
9. Visually check that the user interface assembly is properly inserted into the front console.
10. If both visual checks pass, replace the user interface assembly.
11. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
12. Perform the Console Buttons and Indicators Diagnostic test to verify repair.
13. If indicators still do not light, the machine control electronics has failed: Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
Replace the machine control electronics. Plug in dryer or reconnect power. Perform the Console Buttons and Indicators Diagnostic test to verify repair.

TEST #2 Machine Control Power Check
This test is used to determine if power is present at the machine control electronics.
NOTE: The drum light is controlled by the machine control on all models.
1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
2. Open the door.If the drum light illuminates, then power is present at the machine control, and it is functional. Go to TEST #6. If the drum light fails to illuminate, do not assume the machine control electronics needs replacement. Several conditions may cause the drum light not to illuminate, including a bad bulb. If the drum light does not illuminate, go to TEST #1.

TEST #3 Drive Motor Circuit
This test will check the wiring to the motor and the motor itself. The following items are part of this motor system:
Harness/connection Belt/belt switch Drive motor Centrifugal switch Door switch Machine control electronics
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the machine control electronics and measure the resistance across P8-4 and P9-1.
If resistance across P8-4 and P9-1 is in the range of 1 to 6 ohms, replace the machine control electronics.
Otherwise, go to step 3.
3. Check the wiring and components in the path between these measurement points by referring to the appropriate wiring diagram and strip circuit in Section 7.
4. Check the belt switch and drive motor. Access the belt switch and drive motor by removing the front panel/drum assembly. Slowly remove the drum belt from the spring-loaded belt switch tension pulley, gently letting the belt pulley down.
5. Remove the white connector from the drive motor switch.
6. Check for the resistance values of the motor’s Main and Start winding coils. NOTE: Main and Start winding coils must be checked at the motor.WINDING RESISTANCE ω CONTACT POINTS OF MEASUREMENT
MAIN 1.4–2.6 Blue wire in back at pin 4 and bare copper wire on pin 5 of black drive motor switch
START 1.4–2.8 Blue wire in back at pin 4 and bare copper wire on pin 3 of black drive motor switch. If the resistance at the motor is correct, there is an open circuit between the motor and machine control electronics.
Check for failed belt switch. If the Start winding resistance is much greater than 4 ohms, replace the motor.
7. Check the belt switch by measuring resistance between the two blue wires while pushing up the belt switch tension pulley.If the resistance reading goes from infinity to a few ohms as pulley arm closes the switch, belt switch is OK. If not, replace the belt switch. If belt switch is OK and there is still an open circuit, check and repair the wiring harness.
8. Door switch problems can be uncovered in the Door Switch Diagnostic Test; however, if this was not done, the following can be done without applying power to the dryer. Connect an ohmmeter across P8-3 (neutral, white wire) and P8-4 (door, tan wire).With the door properly closed, the ohmmeter should indicate a closed circuit
(0–2 ohms). If not, replace the door switch assembly.

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EHO message on Electrolux EDP2074PDW dryer

On Electrolux dryers, the EH0 (EHO) error indicates a problem with the incoming voltage at the power supply. This can be due to a problem with the electrical outlet, the power supply or the circuit board.

First unplug the dryer or shut off the circuit breaker. Check if the outlet is working by plugging something else into the outlet and checking if it works. Leave the appliance off for 30 minutes or an hour to see if the error resets. If you recently had a power outage, this might clear an issue from an electrical surge. You may want an electrician to check your wiring.

After that, you will have to check if the power supply is working properly or if the circuit board is getting the incorrect voltage information. There should be an wiring diagram and test sheet tucked into the dryer. It's usually in a space accessed from the back of the dryer. Replace the faulty part. If the dryer is under warranty, contact Electrolux and have them service the problem.

I hope this. The parts diagram is available as a PDF here: https://spares.bigwarehouse.com.au/index.php?cPath=64689_77656_94810 .

Cindy Wells
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Dryer works but no heat, have a multimeter but need to know how to use and what to test

no heat at all? open front to access heater box, set meter to ohms. (unplug dryer), test for continuity across element connections. (disco at least one wire at each part to ensure accurate results for each check. then reconnect when done) some ohms is good here. if OL on meter then its open/bad. check each thermostat on side. they should all be 0 ohms. post results.
At terminal block in rear check voltage while plugged in. set meter to volts AC. each outside terminal to center should show 120 V approx. then together 240v. if 120 only on one side or one side significantly less than 120 then check outlet. Missing one phase/leg of supply can cause motor to run but no heat.
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I had no problem with my dryer until...We vacuumed out our dryer, including the exhaust hose. The dryer doesn't dry clothes. The automatic dry will run until its manually shut off. The Timer still works but the dryer never gets warm. What happened?

dear customer,
I recommend you to kindly follow the rouitne below before taking it to your dealer..
hope u find this useful. thank you.
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