Fisher & Payel washer wouldn't work

If you are right that the water is running out instead of filling then either the drain pump is bad and not forming a seal or the control panel is telling the drain pump to activate. BUT if you are not hearing the pump running then it is probably bad.

You can get a replacement pump at pcappliancerepair.com - part # 285990 - and a lifetime replacement warranty on the pump - for (at this time, July 2009) about $124 total.

However, before you do anything you can run the washer diagnostics by pressing the following key sequence to put the washer into the Automatic Service Diagnostic mode (make sure the washer is EMPTY of clothing when you do this):

Prewash Options --> Wash time --> Prewash Options --> Wash Time (also known as a "Key Dance"). You have to press the 4 keys within 5 seconds for the washer to enter the diagnostic mode.

The washer will start counting down from 99 on the LED display and will run through the following steps:

Display 99-81, Nutate & Fill (washer plate rocking motion is called Nutate), Cold Water, Drive Motor Speed 300
Display 80-61, Nutate & Recirculate, Cold Water, Fabric Softener Dispenser, Pump in Recirculate mode (wash), Drive Motor Speed 275
Display 60-41, Nutate, Fill & Drain, Hot and Cold water, Bleach Dispenser, Pump in Drain Mode - LISTEN FOR IT TO RUN, Drive Motor Speed 250
Display 40-21, Nutate, Fill & Drain, Hot Water, Detergent Dispenser, Pump in Drain Mode, Drive Motor Speed 225
Display 20-01, Spin & Drain, no water fill, no dispenser solenoids, Pump in Drain Mode, Drive Motor Spin Speed 500
Return to Standby at the end of the countdown.

You can press Cancel at any time.

Also, if you can get the washer drained, when you tip it on its side and open the bottom cover (unplug the AC power first and secure the water lines & drain), if you shine a bright flashlight up inside the outer case of the washer, look for a plastic sleeve with some paperwork in it.

If it is there, you will find the washer's Service Diagnostic Paperwork, a large fold-out sheet that shows all the keystrokes, like those documented above, for putting the washer through a bunch of diagnostics.

Hi, Check the drain hose to make sure it hasn't dropped lower than the water level in the washer.
Sometimes when working on the machine, the drain hose gets moved. Does the drain hose go into a sump pump?
PLEASE let me know if this helps or if I can assist you further.

Vic

The leaks in a washing machine could be coming from many different places in the washer.

The first place you need to check is behind the washer, check the two fill hoses and the water mixing valve.

The next thing to do is to remove the front panel, set the washer on the regular cycle and turn it on to start filling.

Use a drop light and check all the hoses under the washer as the washer is filling. Make sure to keep your hands away from any moving parts.

If the hoses are ok, check the pump for leaks. When the bearings in the pump wear out, that is when the pump will get noisy and that could cause your Maytag top load washing machine water leaks.

Another place that the washer could leak water from, is the stem & seal on the holding tank. When washer leaks water from the stem & seal, the water leaks down the center of the transmission.

When the stem & seal need to be replace, the tub bearing has to be replace at the same time. This is an expensive repair if you have to pay someone to do it. If you do it yourself it will cost you about $110

The CCU board is likely at fault see one of my discussions on this here
these boards have intermittent failures that will drive you wacky.

http://www.fixya.com/support/t364216-whirlpool_duet_ht_ghw9400pl0