My machine still works great, but the pan's gasket? in the center has deteriorated and has a hole with metal showing. I haven't used it since noticing this for fear of leakage. I waited 3 months for Breadman to send me a replacement pan, but they say now that there is none available and will refund my charge.

Check with your local parts store. They used to make an oil plug that would rethread itself, but i'm not sure if they still do. I haven't had that problem for years. If they don't, I would try and find an oil pan at an auto wrecker if it was mine. Good luck.

• A complete flush should be performed every 50,000 miles. Sp3 fluid should be used or shuttering can be a result.
• Yes there is a filter and gasket under the pan.

• To change the pan gasket/filter

1. Jack the car up a bit.
2. Get a big drain pan.
3. Remove the bolts to the transmission pan.
4. Now you will see a little bracket holding the filter. Go ahead and remove the screws holding it in place.
5. Now remove the bracket.
6. Now pull the filter strait down. This will release a bit of fluid so be prepared for that.
7. Now look to make sure the rubber gasket from where the filter was removed came out with the filter. Failure to check for this will result in the inability of the new filter to be installed. If you don't see it then look up in the hole and dig it out if you have to.
8. Now make sure the gasket matches the layout of the pan. Gaskets and pans often come as a kit.
9. Now install the new filter and bracket.
10. Now clean off all the old gasket off the transmission and pan till all is metal. No gasket pieces should be left.
11. Now lay the gasket on the pan and set it against the transmission and finger screw some of the bolts in. You don't need a fancy torque wrench. You just want to get the bolts snug. If the gasket comes pushing out the gasket is to tight.
12. Tighten the bolts in a criss crossing fashion.
13. Now add 2.5 qts of SP3 transmission fluid.
14. This is just a start.
15. Turn the engine over and look for leaks right away. If no leaks then get in the car, put your foot on the brake, and run through all the gears two times. All the way up and down. This fills all the pockets.
16. Now put the e-brake on and check the level.
17. Add a little if the dipstick shows the level a little low.
18. Clean up and your done.

• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Mellisia, the problem very well may be, that the drain pan hole under the unit, on the outside may be clogged. When that happens, water backs up and leaks out the front of the unit.The drain hole should be near one of the corners of the drain pan. And with Fedders, it may be on the edge/lip of the drain pan. The clog, may appear to be part of the drain pan and that's why you haven't noticed it.

Inspect the drain pan closely. If you can't find it. You can create one, by CAREFULLY drilling a hole at one of the corners of the drain pan. It doesn't have to be a large hole 1/8" to 1/4" should do.Be sure the unit is OFF and unplugged from the wall, before attempting this. Also, once the drill bit penetrates the drain pan STOP. You don''t want the drill bit to pierce the coils on the back of the unit.

Hope this helped you. Please let me know. Thanks.

Most transmission pans do not have a drain plug. To drain the transmission the velicle will have to be raised. I usually set a large drain pan-several quarts in size-under a rear corner of the transmission pan. I loosen about three bolts on the corner so the transmission fluid will drain. When drained, I remove the rest of the bolts-all 32 or more of them. With the pan off check the color of the fluid look for burnt looking fluid. See if the fluid smells burnt. If so you may have other transmission problems. Look for metal pieces in the transmission pan another indicator of other problems. Clean all the old gasket from the pan and transmission housing-be careful not to gouge either the pan or housing. I use my finger or thumbnail if possible. Gouging either of these places will cause leaks. If you're going to replace the screen do so now. Place the new pan gasket on the pan. Check with the manufacturer's specs before using any permatex or other silicones to hold the pan gasket. I always slide a bolt or two through the pan and gasket holes, lift the pan, and start the bolts. Go slow. Make sure each bolt is going through the gasket hole before tightening it to the transmission housing. Replace the bolts and tighten to a snug using a criss-cross pattern. Go back and forth across the pan tightening each bolt a few turns until all are tight. Don't overtighten the bolts. Doing so will damage the pan gasket, When all bolts are tight, refill the transmisson slowly checking for leaks. Fill the transmission to manufacturer's specifications.

hi sonotim, Here is website that shows the pan that would replace yours as the first item. I think locating just the little gasket would be difficult. It looks like the site will probably redirect you to ebay. There are a lot of parts for bread machines on ebay. If you feel this is helpful please rate/rank/vote for me on fixya....Thanks!

http://www.bizrate.com/breadmakers/sunbeam-bread-machine-parts/

it depends what your skills are. working with cars Yes is a job that you can do, there is few steps that you have to follow to do the job right first make sure that the part your removing is the one your going to fix locate the problem to remove trans pan bolts start from the sides and finish on the center of the pan mean, unscrew bolts from bth side of the pan and the last ones to unscrew should be on the center ones of the pan(do not use any silicone on the gasket, gasket only.) when bolted back start from the center of the pan and finish on the ends of the pan on cross maner and if you know the torque spec would be great if not well can i say, dont go too hard on the bolts. Hope this will help you

Possible causes and solutions:

1. Poor Ventilation, make sure macerator is properly vent. From top of lid there is a separate 1 1/2" ventilation pipe make sure it's installed and pipe/fittings are undamaged, fittings are all tight and secure. Vent is free of debris.
2. Leaking Seals. Inspect lid Gasket for damage and deterioration, Replace with new gasket if damaged or deteriorated.
3. Check all connection to ensure tightness, Lid tightly, Pan Gasket, hose/pipe fittings tight and secure.

I hope this helps in solving your problem, please rate the helpfulness of the answer. Good Luck and have a great week. Jeff

TAKE IT APART AGAIN AND CHECK THAT THE PAN IS NOT BENT,ALSO SOME GASKETS HAVE METAL COLLARS IN THE GASKET AT THE BOLT HOLES,MAYBE YOU HAVE ONE THAT STUCK TO THE PAN

have the engine cleaned of all oil then recheck, an oil pan gasket doesn't leak in a manner you are discribing.

To change the transmission fluid make sure you have purchased: 1. filter with the o-ring 2. MOPAR ATF + 3 Type 7176, p/n 05010124AA fluid (I believe it took 6 quarts?) You are not changing the torque converter fluid so there will not be 12 quarts needed.). 3. Pan gasket. You should receive the new neoprene reusable pan gasket. This is because the recommendation is to change the transmission fluid every 25,000 miles. 4. There is a fluid additive to prevent foaming? Use it.


Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Remove the pan bolts. Remove the old gasket material with a plastic scraper. There could be metal transfer if you use a metal scraper. Clean the pan carefully. Clean the magnet that sits in the pan as it collects the minute metal shavings. If you see an excess of larger particles, you really should have the transmission inspected at a shop. Replace the filter carefully looking at its arrangement before removing. It took a second look to install a new filter because I did not watch how it was situated before removing. Use a thin coat of transmission fluid on the new pan gasket. Orient reusable gasket properly with bolt holes and assemble oil pan and gasket to transmission case. Tighten oil pan bolts to 19 Nm (165 in lbs.). CAUTION: DO NOT OVERFILL TRANSAXLE. DO NOT ADD OIL IF LEVEL IS BETWEEN: LOWER HOLES FOR WARM OIL (100?F). UPPER HOLES FOR HOT OIL (180?F.).