Washer wont spin

Yes, change the pulleys too. You can buy a kit

Make sure the lid is closed. There is a switch inside that completes the connection. Your washer may not spin or agitate if this connection is not completed. Make sure that the speed selector switch is not between speeds. Verify that the washer is not in a soak cycle. You can also reset the water level up or down to make sure that the water level control switch isn't stuck. If you hear a humming sound when the washer is full of water, you may have something stuck in the drain pump.
If one of these is not the problem, check the belt. The main drive motor has two distinct functions. The first function is to spin the basket; the second function is to reciprocate your agitator. Inside your washer's transmission is a crank type gear and connecting rods that are used to agitate the washer, with the spinning coming from the washer motor itself. This usually entails some sort of clutch mechanism. Some things to check if your washer is not agitating and/or spinning are:
If you notice weak or no agitation, the splines connecting the agitator to the drive shaft may be stripped and need to be replaced.
After a lot of use, belts can become worn or damaged. Replace any worn or damaged belts immediately. If you have a broken belt, replace it and check the pulley to make sure it's not seized.
Sometimes the drive pulley can wear out and it won't turn the drive belt. Look for wear marks, pits, or uneven spots. It's best to just replace it with a new pulley.
Many washers use a reversing motor. Sometimes it will continue to work in one direction even if it won't spin in the other direction. If your washer has a drive motor issue, you probably need to replace the motor with a new one. Call a professional appliance repair person to verify this first.
The lid switch is a safety device that's there to protect you from sticking your hands into a spinning washer. If this switch goes bad, the washer will not work. You will have to replace it. It is inside the main housing for the washer, and located near the door frame.
The coupler connects the motor to the transmission. After lengthy use, this plastic and rubber coupler can wear out. If this happens, you need to replace it.
Transmission and clutch assemblies can cause agitator and spinning problems They are fairly complex, so if you suspect you have transmission or clutch issues it's probably in your best interest to call a professional appliance repair person.

Probably the motor or belt needs to be changed

SOUNSS LIKE A BAD CLUTCH IF DIRECT DRIVE AND IF BELT DRIVEN I WOULD CHECK FOR A WORN LOOSE BELT

Hello there:
It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these: If the motor is running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it. A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it. The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle.

Hi, Most possible causes are:-
1.Make sure the lid is closed. There is a switch inside that completes the connection. Your washer may not spin or agitate if this connection is not completed. Make sure that the speed selector switch is not between speeds. Verify that the washer is not in a soak cycle. You can also reset the water level up or down to make sure that the water level control switch isn't stuck. If you hear a humming sound when the washer is full of water, you may have something stuck in the drain pump.

2.If one of these is not the problem, check the belt. The main drive motor has two distinct functions. The first function is to spin the basket; the second function is to reciprocate your agitator. Inside your washer's transmission is a crank type gear and connecting rods that are used to agitate the washer, with the spinning coming from the washer motor itself. This usually entails some sort of clutch mechanism. Some things to check if your washer is not agitating and/or spinning are:

3.If you notice weak or no agitation, the splines connecting the agitator to the drive shaft may be stripped and need to be replaced.

4.After a lot of use, belts can become worn or damaged. Replace any worn or damaged belts immediately. If you have a broken belt, replace it and check the pulley to make sure it's not seized.

5.Sometimes the drive pulley can wear out and it won't turn the drive belt. Look for wear marks, pits, or uneven spots. It's best to just replace it with a new pulley.

6.Many washers use a reversing motor. Sometimes it will continue to work in one direction even if it won't spin in the other direction. If your washer has a drive motor issue, you probably need to replace the motor with a new one.
7.The lid switch is a safety device that's there to protect you from sticking your hands into a spinning washer. If this switch goes bad, the washer will not work. You will have to replace it. It is inside the main housing for the washer, and located near the door frame.

8.The coupler connects the motor to the transmission. After lengthy use, this plastic and rubber coupler can wear out. If this happens, you need to replace it.

9.Transmission and clutch assemblies can cause agitator and spinning problems They are fairly complex.
Regards, mannu_rakesh

Hi,
The most possible causes are:-

1. Make sure the lid is closed. There is a switch inside that completes the connection. Your washer may not spin or agitate if this connection is not completed. Make sure that the speed selector switch is not between speeds. Verify that the washer is not in a soak cycle. You can also reset the water level up or down to make sure that the water level control switch isn't stuck. If you hear a humming sound when the washer is full of water, you may have something stuck in the drain pump.
   
   2. If one of these is not the problem, check the belt. The main drive motor has two distinct functions. The first function is to spin the basket; the second function is to reciprocate your agitator. Inside your washer's transmission is a crank type gear and connecting rods that are used to agitate the washer, with the spinning coming from the washer motor itself. This usually entails some sort of clutch mechanism. Some things to check if your washer is not agitating and/or spinning are:
   
   3.If you notice weak or no agitation, the splines connecting the agitator to the drive shaft may be stripped and need to be replaced.
   
   4. After a lot of use, belts can become worn or damaged. Replace any worn or damaged belts immediately. If you have a broken belt, replace it and check the pulley to make sure it's not seized.
   
   5. Sometimes the drive pulley can wear out and it won't turn the drive belt. Look for wear marks, pits, or uneven spots. It's best to just replace it with a new pulley.
   
   6. Many washers use a reversing motor. Sometimes it will continue to work in one direction even if it won't spin in the other direction. If your washer has a drive motor issue, you probably need to replace the motor with a new one.

7. The lid switch is a safety device that's there to protect you from sticking your hands into a spinning washer. If this switch goes bad, the washer will not work. You will have to replace it. It is inside the main housing for the washer, and located near the door frame.

8. The coupler connects the motor to the transmission. After lengthy use, this plastic and rubber coupler can wear out. If this happens, you need to replace it.

9. Transmission and clutch assemblies can cause agitator and spinning problems they are fairly complex.


Thank you for contacting Fixya.com

Dear customer,                 
        we recommend u to do the follwoing checks on ur washer 

1. Inspect the drain hose for kinks
   
2. Test the timer control
   
3. Test the lid switch (some models)
   
4. Inspect the water pump
   
5. Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
   
6. Inspect the motor coupler

these are usually performed wen water doesnt drain out and for the agitator not spinning the problem's root can be known by..

1. Test the lid switch
   
2. Inspect the motor coupler
   
3. Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
   
4. Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
   
5. Test the motor
   
6. Inspect the pulley
   
7. Test the transmission
   
8. Inspect the agitator
   
9. Inspect the pump coupling
   
10. Test the water level switch
    

plz rate this solution.. for more details on self check try http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/washer/washer.php  good luck..

If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

You don't list model number so this will be a bit generic for Hotpoint top loader. If the motor spins but the belt is not moving: With power off, manually turn the large pulley the belt goes around, just a revolution is enough. Spin is CCW, but you may have to try CW (agitation). Now set turn the washer on spin again. This may unlock your transmission, but unfortunately is usually only a temporary solution. If the machine was manufactured prior to 1-1-06 and still under five years old, the transmission may still be covered under warranty. Check the back pages of your owner's manual. (labor would not be covered) If too old / not covered, I'd invest in a new front loading washer. The LG's are #1 rated in Consumer Reports and are direct drive (with a 7 year warranty on the motor) so there is no transmission, clutch, belt, or pulleys. You don't have to get the top of the line model, all LG's are direct drive and very good. Other front load machines, although not DD, will also use much less water than your hotpoint and spin out twice as fast or more, reducing dry time and dry cost. I know this wasn't what you really wanted to hear (bad news), so don't bother rating this "solution". (don't want my rating to go down just because I told someone bad news about there machine.)