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I need a carb for model pm52-2000 carb is broken by one of bolts thats screws it to generator head

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I also have a PM52-2000. Since I keep the generator outside, I have ruined more than one carburetor over the years by letting water get into it. I have found perfectly good replacement carburetors for it on eBay by simply searching for Tecumseh 5 HP Carburetor. Today, I searched on eBay and found 142 of them, all new, some costing as little as $18.00. I just finished installing a carb I bought off eBay last year. It fit perfectly, adjusted easily, and runs perfectly.

Posted on Aug 27, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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To remove the tanks, first remove the seat and the dash cover. With this off, you can get to the bolts that hold the tanks on. There are two bolts at the front and one at the rear of each tank. The tanks are connected by a fuel line at the bottom and a vent line at the top. You'll have to drain the fuel from the tanks but you won't be able to get it all out. When you take the "fuel crossover line" loose at the bottom of the tanks, gasoline will go everywhere.

To get the carb off, loosen the two cables and disconnect them from the carb. Disconnect the vacuum line for the VOES and the petcock from the back of the carb. Loosen the nut that holds the enricher cable to the bracket on the left side of the bike. The enricher cable stays with the carb. Pull the carb out of the intake manifold.

Now, remove the two bolts from each head that holds the intake on and it will come off.

To reinstall the intake simply reverse the procedure. However there are a few things to watch for. The intake flanges that bolt to the heads are marked "F" front and "R" rear. Do not mix them up. The beveled side goes towards the head and the gasket goes on the intake to match the bevel.

When you put the intake back on, leave it loose because it must be lined up. With the intake loosely bolted to the heads, stick the carb back into the intake manifold and bolt the air filter backing plate back up using the three screws for the carb and the two large bolts that screw into the heads. This aligns the intake manifold with the rest of the induction system. Failure to properly align all the induction components could result in a vacuum leak even with the new gaskets. If you have to push the carb in any direction to get it to bolt up with the air filter, something is wrong. Once you get everything aligned, tighten the four bolts that hold the intake to the heads.

Before starting the engine, make certain that the throttle cables are operating the carb correctly. You don't want to start the engine with the throttle wide open. Lift the slide and verify that the throttle plate is closed in the carb. When you open the throttle wide open and let go of the throttle grip, the carb should "snap" shut. If it doesn't, you've got something wrong. Make sure the throttle works properly. Failure to do so can cause serious injury or death.

Good Luck
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It is rather the oil switch or its level sensor, because the carb should not let it start.

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You didn't post what model / manufacturer you are working on, so the following will be generalized.

Most generator heads fit onto a tapered shaft, and may also use an adapter plate. Since the shaft it tapered, the fit will be tight (press fit), shaft will likely be keyed as well. There may be holes in the adapter plate to put bolts through that will, when incremently and evenly tightened, will push the generator head off the shaft. Others may require the use of a puller. In both cases, it may be necessary to separate the housing of the generator head. Sometimes, a torch may be needed to heat up the adapter sleeve to help get it off, but that is rarely used due to high potential of damage to seals, temper, and such.

If you can't find a way to get it off externally, then time to take the alternator apart (generator head) and see what you figure out internally.

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Oct 08, 2008 | Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W...

1 Answer

Carb bowl


The first thing I want to say is this.

If you have a chance to dump this Robin/Subaru Genset please do so!

I say this because the Manual docs for these R/S engines and/or Gensets are so poorly written in comparison to say Briggs & Stratton or Honda engines that it's like DAY and NIGHT in comparison.

My personal GENERAC 5500 Genset (that uses a B&S 10HP engine) Users Manual is like a Chilton Auto Manual in comparison to the R/S literature. No offense, but it's the truth!

It would be nice to have the WHOLE engine model # for starters, but seeings it's a 10hp Robin/Subaru it no doubt doesn't even have the TORX head style Carb bolts/studs requiring Torx sockets.

If it does by chance - then I'm not sure what size they normally are, as I don't have the exact model #, so I guess you're on your own there and will have to find a set of Torx sockets first.

If the Float Bowl has no Main Jet external adjustment screw assy at the bottom of the Float Bowl, or retainer bolt/nut, then the Float Bowl is screw threaded on in a CW direction.

You may have to use a rubber sleeve (like a 2" cut piece of rubber inner tubing from an old bike tire) and slip it over the bowl to help unscrew it. A smaller rubber band type wrench will work also, but I would hand tighten it so as not to damage anything.

It shouldn't be tightened on that tight to begin with. Be very careful replacing it and the seal gasket (or sometimes an O-ring) making sure the threads are lined up exactly right otherwise you will cross-thread the Bowl or the Carb Body!!

I can't be any more help then that, as that's all I have to work with here.

Let me know if that does it?

Post a reply here please.

Thx and best regards,

Frank

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