1996 golf gas. coils has stong spark. number one wire has stong spark. 2, 3 and four wires no spark. used test lead at 2,3 and 4 cap terminals and no spark. all leads work when conected to no. one terminal. replaced cap and rotor with new ones. no luck. if the hall sensor goes there should be no spark at all. is the computer causing this or is there another sensor affecting this. this is a first for me

The coil pack wiring is relatively straightforward though the exact wiring, colours and suchlike will vary a little from car to car.

A 4 cylinder engine will have a coilpack containing four individual ignition coils - one for each cylinder, but they are likely to be wired as if there is only two. This is to simplify the wiring and to cut a little unnecessary complication from the ECU.
Effectively those four coils are two pairs of coils - the primary windings of coils one and four are wired in series and similarly the primary windings of coils two and three.

When cylinder number one fires a spark is also generated by coil number four but causes no effect as that cylinder is at the top of the exhause stroke. This is called the wasted spark principle.

The same effect can be obtained by using a single coil per two cylinders of a type which has a single secondary winding which is completely isolated or not grounded in any way. One end feeds one spark plug and the other end is also terminated in a spark plug wire and terminal.

This simplification means the coil pack (4 cylinder example) is fed by only three or four wires (usually four).

I hope this helps.

With the vehicle in 'Park'[Auto] or 'Neutral' and hand brake on [Manual], open the bonnet and locate the ignition coil.
1. Ensure the lead is fully engaged [and that all wiring connections are tightened and free from dirt and corrosion] then follow it to the distributor cap and check that the other end is properly connected and the plug leads are also.
2. Remove a spark plug lead at the plug then remove the plug.
3. Connect the removed plug to it's lead and while holding the threaded portion of the plug in positive contact with bare metal on the engine [exhaust manifold] have someone turn the ignition key to crank the engine.
WARNING: Be careful if the engine is hot and wear gloves and use pliers with insulated handles when holding the test plug.
4. As the engine is turning over inspect the spark plug electrodes for any sign of sparking. A blue spark is what you want to see. Orange spark or none at all is bad news for the coil which needs to be replaced.
5. When you're done, replace everything properly, account for all tools and remember a clean engine is a serviceable engine.

Is this for a ignition coil output stage open circuit? If so you need to rerun the ground wire. Just but the wire close enough to the coil that you can still get to the wire and splice another wire to it. Just splice a wire to the brown wire and run the rest of the wire to a ground lug under the battery. You will need to remove the battery and the tray. Also when you hook the battery back up make sure the key is on. This will reset alarm and radio. Remember, you are grounding the coil so the wire should go from the coil to ground. Hope this helps

Have a 95 Accord 4 cyl. I cleaned the battery terminals and changed the high voltage coil as well as two of the four plugs.

1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be 0 or nearly 0 ohms . If not replace the coil.
2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite resistance or out of specification.

All tests included below.

The symptoms of a defective component within the HEI system are exactly the same as those you would encounter in a conventional system. Some of these symptoms are:


Hard or No Starting Rough Idle Poor Fuel Economy Engine misses under load or while accelerating.
If you suspect a problem in your ignition system, there are certain preliminary checks which you should carry out before you begin to check the electronic portions of the system. First, it is extremely important to make sure the vehicle battery is in a good state of charge. A defective or poorly charged battery will cause the various components of the ignition system to read incorrectly when they are being tested. Second, make sure all wiring connections are clean and tight, not only at the battery, but also at the distributor cap, ignition coil, and at the electronic control module.
Instruments designed specifically for testing HEI systems are available from several tool manufacturers. Some of these will even test the module itself. However, the tests given in this section will require only an ohmmeter and a voltmeter.

CAUTION The HEI ignition system can generate voltage of 30,000-50,000 volts. When testing the system, DO NOT hold a spark plug wire while the engine is running or cranking. Personal injury and or damage to the ignition system may result if this caution is not followed.
Since the only change between electronic and conventional ignition systems is in the distributor component area, it is imperative to check the secondary ignition circuit first. If the secondary circuit checks out properly, then the engine condition is probably not the fault of the ignition system.
If the engine won't start, perform this test. This will narrow the problem area down considerably.

1. Remove one of the plug wires and insert a HEI spark tester tool in the plug socket.
2. Ground the spark tester to the block and crank the engine. DO NOT touch the spark plug wire while the engine is cranking.
3. The spark should be crisp and bright blue in color. If a normal spark occurs, try each spark plug wire until a no spark condition or a weak orange color spark is found. If all sparks are good, the problem is probably not in the ignition system. Check for fuel system problems, or fouled spark plugs.

If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery (BAT) terminal in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the ON position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end to the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage to the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly. Go on to the distributor components test section.


If the engine runs, but runs roughly or cuts out, make sure the plug wires are in good shape first. There should be no obvious cracks or breaks. You can check the plug wires with an ohmmeter, but do not pierce the wires with a probe.
If the plug wires are OK, remove the cap assembly and check for moisture, cracks, chips, carbon tracks, or any other high voltage leaks or failures. Replace the cap if any defects are found. Make sure the timer wheel rotates when the engine is cranked. If everything is all right so far, go on to the distributor components test section.
DISTRIBUTOR COMPONENTS TESTINGSee Figures 2 and 3
If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed and the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.

1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be 0&omega or nearly 0&omega . If not replace the coil.
2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000&omega. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite resistance or out of specification.

Fig. Fig. 2: Checking coil resistance. Ohmmeter 1 shows primary test. Ohmmeter 2 shows secondary test.
These resistance checks will not disclose shorted coil windings. This condition can only be detected with scope analysis or a suitably designed coil tester. If these instruments are unavailable, replace the coil with a known good coil as a final coil test.

1. To test the pick-up coil, first disconnect the white and green module leads. Set the ohmmeter on the high scale and connect it between a ground and either the white or green lead. Any resistance measurement less than infinite requires replacement of the pick-up coil.
2. Pick-up coil continuity is tested by connecting the ohmmeter (on low range) between the white and green leads. Normal resistance is between 650 and 850&omega, or 500 and 1,500&omega on 1977 and later models. Move the vacuum advance arm while performing this test (early models). This will detect any break in coil continuity. Such a condition can cause intermittent misfiring. Replace the pick-up coil if the reading is outside the specified limits.
3. If no defects have been found at this time, and you still have a problem, then the module will have to be checked. If you do not have access to a module tester, the only possible alternative is a substitution test. If the module fails the substitution test, replace it.

Fig. Fig. 3: Pick-up coil testing

This has a coil pack and four spark plug wires, correct? If so and you have replaced the spark plug wires and you don't have any spark out number four but you have spark on number one than you have a bad coil. You can remove the number four wire from the coil start the engine. Use. Test light connected to ground and place it near the opening in the coil that the spark plug wire goes into. You should see a sharp strong snappy spark. You may find that you have to hold the test light really close to the metal part inside the oil tower to see any spark. If this is the case you have a bad coil. Be careful when checking for spark. There is between 30 - 40 thousand volts generated but the merge is extremely low. If you get zapped it's going to tickle. Bit but it won't kill you. Good luck and let me know what you find.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Engine Fails To Start

The "Checking For Spark'' test should be performed prior to this test.

This is a basic test of the ignition system that systematically examines the battery, the coil, the engine controller, and its wiring harness and connections; the most likely culprits in a no-start condition at this stage.

Fabricate this special jumper with a 0.33 MF capacitor in-line to test the ignition coil
Click to Enlarge

1. Unplug the ignition coil harness connector at the coil.
   
2. Connect a set of small jumper wires (18 gauge or smaller) between the disconnected harness terminals and the ignition coil terminals.
   

Terminal locations on the engine controller 14-way connector-1989 models
Click to Enlarge

Engine controller 60-way connector-relevant terminals for testing are shown numbered
Click to Enlarge

1. Attach one lead of a a voltmeter to the positive (12V) jumper wire. Attach the negative side of the voltmeter to a good ground. Measure the voltage at the battery and confirm that enough current is available to operate the starting and ignition systems.
   
2. Crank the engine for five seconds while monitoring the voltage at the coil positive terminal:
   
   1. If the voltage remains at zero, diagnosis of the fuel system should be performed. Also check the engine controller and auto shutdown relay.
      
   2. If voltage is at or near battery voltage and then drops to zero after one or two seconds of engine cranking, check the engine control module circuit.
      

WARNING

The ignition must be turned OFF prior to unplugging the engine controller connector. If it is not, electrical surging could occur causing damage to the unit or other electrical components in the vehicle.

1. If the voltage remains at or near battery voltage during the entire five seconds, turn the ignition key OFF. Remove the 14-way connector on 1989 models, or the 60-way connector on 1990-96 models at the engine controller. Check the 14-way or 60-way connector for any spread terminals.
   

1. Remove the test lead from the coil positive terminal. Connect an 18 gauge jumper wire between the battery positive terminal and the coil positive terminal.
   
2. Make a special jumper cable (see illustration). Using the jumper MOMENTARILY ground terminal 12 on the 14-way connector (1989), or terminal 19 (see illustration) of the 1990-96 60-way connector. A spark should be generated at the coil wire when the ground is removed.
   
   1. If a spark is generated, replace the engine controller computer.
      
   2. If no spark is seen, use the special jumper to ground the coil negative terminal directly. If spark is produced, repair the wiring harness for an open circuit condition. If spark is not produced, replace the ignition coil
      
   this is for distributor ignition
   

THIS IS TESTING OF DISTRIBUTORLESS IGN
Testing

This procedure requires an ohmmeter to test the coil packs for primary and secondary resistance (specifications are given for an ambient temperature of 70-80°F/21-27°C).

The two coil packs contain five independent coils, which fire paired cylinders (shown numbered)
Click to Enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Determine the manufacturer of the coil. It should be labeled either a Diamond or Toyodenso.
   

Location of critical terminals for checking the coil primary resistance-V10 engine front coils
Click to Enlarge

Location of critical terminals for checking the coil primary resistance-V10 engine rear coils
Click to Enlarge

1. Check the secondary resistance of each individual paired coil by connecting an ohmmeter across the coil towers. This must be done between the correct cylinder pairs: 3/2, 7/4, 1/6, 9/8, or 5/10. Resistance for a Diamond coil should be 11,300-15,300 ohms. For a Toyodenso manufactured coil pack, resistance should be 11,300-13,300 ohms.
   

Use an ohmmeter to check secondary resistance as shown

1. Check the primary resistance of the front coil pack by attaching an ohmmeter between the B+ coil terminal and either the right (cylinders 3/2), center (cylinder 7/4), or left coil (cylinders 1/6) terminals. Resistance for a Diamond coil should be 0.97-1.18 ohms. Resistance for a Toyodenso coil should be 0.95-1.20 ohms.
   
2. To test the primary resistance of the rear coil pack, attach an ohmmeter between the B+ coil terminal (see illustration) and either the right (cylinders 9/8), or left (cylinders 5/10) coil terminals. Resistance for a Diamond coil should be 0.97-1.18 ohms. Resistance for a Toyodenso coil should be 0.95-1.20 ohms.
   

i hope this helps any more questions repl if help at all plz vote or comment me

Toyota Camry 1983-1996 Repair Guide Ignition Module - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

External
All engines, except the 2S-ELC, have an external igniter.

1. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Separate the wiring harness connections.
3. Unbolt the igniter.
4. Loosen the nut holding the wire lead onto the coil.
5. Tag and disconnect the wire lead.
6. Lift the igniter off its mount.

To install:

1. Mount the igniter to the bracket.
2. Attach the wire lead to the coil.
3. Connect the harness.
4. Connect the negative battery cable. Reset any digital equipment such as radio memory and the clock if necessary.

Internal
REMOVING IGNITER WITH DISTRIBUTOR
See Figure 1
The internal igniter is only applicable to 2S-ELC engine Camry models. All other engines are equipped with an external igniter assembly.
Review the complete service procedure before this repair. Note position, color of wire and routing of all internal distributor assembly wiring.

1. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal.
2. Remove the number one spark plug. Place a finger over the spark plug hole and rotate the crankshaft clockwise to top dead center. When there is pressure felt on the finger at the spark plug hole, this will be top dead center of the compression stroke on number one cylinder. If not, repeat the procedure. Install the number one spark plug.
3. Mark the position of the distributor flange in relation to the camshaft housing. Remove the IIA distributor assembly.
4. Remove the distributor cap with the wires attached, and remove the packing. Mark the position of the rotor relative to the housing and pull the rotor straight up and off the shaft. The distributor cap is held to the housing with three retaining screws.
5. Remove the ignition coil dust cover.
6. Remove the two nuts and spring washers and disconnect the four wires from the terminals on the side of the ignition coil. The wires are color coded yellow, blue, brown and red.
7. Remove the four retaining screws and remove the ignition coil and packing.
8. Remove the nuts and disconnect the pink, white and black wires from the igniter terminals. Remove the two igniter retaining screws and remove the igniter.

To install:

1. Attach the new igniter with the two retaining screws. Connect the pink, black and white wires to their respective terminals and install the nuts. Make sure that the pick-up coil wires are secured in their clips and that there is slack in the wires.
2. Install the ignition coil and attach it with the four retaining screws.
3. Connect the four ignition coil wires to their respective terminals and install the two nuts and spring washers.
4. Install the coil dust cover and push the rotor onto the shaft.
5. Place the distributor cap and wires into position. Install and tighten the retaining screws.
6. Install the distributor assembly and connect the negative battery cable.
7. Connect a tachometer and timing light to the engine and adjust the ignition timing.
   

Fig. 1: Make sure you remember where the colored wires attach for installation-2S-ELC engine

1. Reset any digital equipment such as radio memory and the clock if necessary.

REMOVING IGNITER WITHOUT REMOVING DISTRIBUTOR

1. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and di-electric insulator covers. Disconnect the red and yellow wires from the coil and the pink, white and black wires from the igniter.
2. Remove the igniter. It may be necessary to mark and rotate the distributor to gain access to the igniter retaining screws. The timing should be checked after the distributor is returned to the mark.

To install:

1. Install the new igniter using the two new retaining screws.
2. Twist the pick-up coil wires together, install the white wire first then pink and black wires to their original locations. Make sure the wires do not touch the housing generator or advance plate.
3. Route the red and yellow wires from the igniter so they do not contact moving parts. Connect the red wire to the right coil terminal (with the brown wire) and the yellow wire to the left terminal (with the blue wire). Replace the covers, rotor and cap.
4. Connect a tachometer and timing light to the engine and adjust the ignition timing.

Hope this helped (remember comment and rated this).

I beleive your firing order is 1 3 4 2. 1 and 4 are companion cylinders-meaning the piston is up or down at the same time i.e. compression and exhaust stroke both pistons are up and even on the exhaust stroke the ignition fires in order to burn unburnt fuel/ h ve you checked your trigger. There is a good coil testing tool that is placed over the coil and has a magnetic pickup that allows you to see if the coil is being triggered-just because you have power doesn't mean that you will have spark. I would replace your ignition wires and look at your wiring harness very carefully- if it is very brittle and you see bare wires exposed that is your most likley problem because the trigger is working for 1 and 3 and has the crank senser input for all for spark plugs and the cam senser is used for ignition advance and your fuel injection system. try wiggling your harness and see if your coils start to work. wireharnesses are a major problem on mercedes benz vehicles of that era. I hope I have been helpful

Hello darren625, the firing order will be 1-3-4-2, #1 will be at the front of the block,I am not familiar with volks wagon but you can disconnect the power (to be safe) turn the engine over by hand with plugs out for ease use a piece of stiff wire or small screwdriver in the #1 plug hole and you will feel the piston come up make sure it is on the compression stroke (you will feel air escape) when it is at the top before it starts to travel down that will be tdc (top dead center) the rotor will now be in line with #1 connect wires as per firing order and you should be good to go,hope this helps, good luck