Electronic frost-free fridge ices up about once every ten days

The evaporator will frost over if the fan is not working. Replace the fan
APPLIANCE 911

This answer will be somewhat long, but in order to understand the "fix" for your problem you need to understand how a refrigerator-freezer works.

Most units have ONE COMPRESSOR which usually cools the FREEZER. Then, to cool the fridge area, there is a DUCT or ducts between the freezer and the fridge area to move some small amount of very cold freezer air into the fridge section. In the old days this occurred by convection, but most newer units have a small fan in the duct to more dependably move the air.

The run time of the compressor, and thus the temperature of the freezer is usually controlled by a THERMOSTAT [usually with numbers on the dial]. A second control [usually with the letters A, B, C, and sometimes even D] operates either a DAMPER in the duct, or controls the duration of fan operation in order to control the temperature in the fridge section.

Under certain conditions of higher humidity, FROST [fine ice crystals] can build up in the duct, and on the fan if there is one, reducing or totally blocking the cold air flow from the freezer to the fridge section.

From your description of the freezer working well, but the fridge section being "warm" suggests that blockage of the duct is what has happened. However, there are a couple of other possibilities:

1. You inadvertantly moved the fridge control to a warmer setting,
2. You inadvertantly placed something in the freezer and/or fridge which BLOCKED the entrance or exit of the duct,

IF one of the above are the cause, a "manual" defrost of a few hours with the freezer and fridge doors open to allow warmer air in should melt out any frost/ice from the duct and allow the system to work properly. Depending on the severity of the frost/ice buildup, it could take a couple of days to fully melt all the frost/ice.

During the manual defrost ALL frozen and perishable foods should be temporary stored in an ice chest or cooler of some kind.

One more thing, in addition to heavy humidity, frost/ice buildup can also be caused by a defective automatic DEFROST TIMER. IF the system does not do its regular defrost cycle [usually an hour or two once in each 24 hours], then frost/ice buildup can occur even with "normal" humidities.

So, once you have the system back in operation, watch for the normal cycling of the defrost program, and if the problem continues, contact a qualified refrigeration repair technician to repair or replace the defrost TIMER.

This is what is happening. All "frost free" refrigerators are not truly frost free. The cooling comparment elements frost up with moisture from the air. Every 6 or 8 hours or so the fridge shuts down. then . small electric heaters fitted into these cooling elements melt the frost away. The water goes down a tube into what is called a drip pan mounted underneath the fridge. If the drain tube clogs with a piece of paper, or food or algae. The water from the frost melting stays in the pan because the drain is clogged. So each time the fridge defrosts, it builds up ICE not frost and eventually it completely clogs with a block of ice.
The other thing that can happen, is that the timer that controls this cycle fails and the heating elements never turn on. The the fridge then clogs with frost. The fridge will clog with frost if any of the following parts fail. The defrost thermostat which opens up the heater circuit when the coils reach
around 40-50 degrees, the defrost heaters mounted in the cooling coils, or the defrost timer fails.
If your fridge works normally after this, then the drain hole was clogged and you unclogged it. If it gets colder and colder again. Then the timer, defrost thermostat, or the defrost heaters have failed.
Hope this helps. You are welcome to write back to me and tell me what is happening with your fridge. I hope this helps, Best Regards, Mark

The fridge need to be devrosted open up freezer door take back of and look if all ice gone from freezing rods restart if same prob it looks like fan not going or heating element not workingon

It should still be covered under the warranty.

How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes:
1. low refrigerant
2. no fan
3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals
4. the condensate drain tube is clogged

if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s).

no air, no fan. Replace

if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional.

defrost solutions:
unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help. Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

Has this thing a separate frezer and cooler compartment.
Have tried to completely defrost and clean that thing.
At times like in airco's the pinch valve for the cooling process to effect (expansion) is stuck frozen, or very seldom broke.

My Bosch Frost Free Fridge Freezer did the same thing - Ice forming in the bottom of the freezer area after a few days.

It was caused by a blocked drain pipe - When the freezer does the de-frosting cycle, the melted ice drips into a tray and tehn runs into a dish on top of teh compressor, through a pipe.

If this pipe gets blocked, the de frosted ice overflows from the tray and overflows into the bottom of the freezer and then re-freezes !

To fix, pull the freezer away form the wall, locate the pipe that runs to the dish on top of the compressor and blow through it - This should clear it. Alternatively, from inside the freezer compartment, pull off the cover at the back, but the clips holding it on will probably break off, as mine did ! You can sort of push the cover back on and re-fit the food draws.

If the fan is running you more than likely have a defrost problem.
look at the back wall of the freezer section if it is frosted up. it's not defrosting.
There three components in this system. The defrost heater, the defrost termination stat., and the defrost timer. Newer refrigerators do not have a timer per say it is build into a electronic board usually mounted on the back of the refrigerator under a metal plate. The termination stat is the cheapest part @ $ 25.00. The heater should run @ 50.00 to 70.00. The board could be as much as 200.00 or more. If the refrigerator is over 10 years old you may wish to look into getting a replacement. Appliances are designed to start failing after 10 years old.
My opinion.
If you unplug the refrigerator let it defrost then plug it back in. it will work properly about 3 days before it frosts back up.