Water will not drain from tub after I switch to drain/spin. How can this be resolved?

check water pressure switch, and also check to see if drain line is set at proper level. somes when no water in spin rinse may be due to clogged sump or water pump .

Symptom Check
Click on underlined items for further information Washer does not work and makes no noise

• Check that the washer is plugged in securely
• Check the circuit breaker or fuse box
• Test the outlet for current
• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the filter screens
• Test for overheating
• Test the water level switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the lid switch
• Test the water inlet valve
• Inspect the water pump
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the motor

Washer does not work but it does make noise

• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the filter screens
• Test for overheating
• Inspect the water pump
• Test the water inlet valve
• Test the motor

No water is entering the wash tub
- or no hot water
- or no cold water

• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the water supply hoses for kinks
• Check the filter screens
• Test the water level switch
• Test the water temperature switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the water inlet valve

The water fills the wash tub too slowly

• Check that the water valves are turned on full
• Check the water pressure at the tap
• Check the filter screens
• Test the water inlet valve

The tub does not fill with enough water

• Test the water level switch
• Check that the drain hose is positioned roughly as high as the top of the inner tub

The water overflows the wash tub

• Test the timer control
• Test the water level switch
• Inspect the air tube for damage
• Test the water inlet valve

Water drains out during the wash or rinse cycle

• Check the drain control lever
• Test the drain control coils
• Check the cam bar
• Test the timer control

Wrong temperature of water is used

• Water supply hoses may be reversed
• Hot or cold water supply valve may be turned off
• Water supply hose may be kinked
• Check water inlet valve

Water drains out while it is filling

• Check the drain hose, it should be at least as high as the top of the wash tub, about 38 inches.
• The drain hose must sit loosely in the house drain. Do not seal the air gap around the drain hose or a siphon will occur.
• Check the drain control lever
• Test the drain control coils
• Check the cam bar

Water drips into the wash tub when the washer is off

• Replace the water inlet valve

Water does not drain out of the wash tub

• Inspect the drain hose for kinks
• Test the timer control
• Test the lid switch (some models)
• Inspect the water pump
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect the motor coupler

Water is leaking onto the ground

• Inspect the water supply connections
• Inspect the drain hose
• Inspect the water pump
• Inspect outer tub for cracks or corrosion
• Inspect the tub seal
• Inspect the tub bearing

Agitator does not move

• Test the lid switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission
• Inspect the agitator
• Inspect the pump coupling
• Test the water level switch

Agitator movement is weak or moves in only one direction

• Inspect the agitator
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission
• Inspect the pump coupling

Drum does not spin

• Test the lid switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the water level switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission

Clothes are too wet after spin cycle This may be a spin problem or a drain problem
Drain:

• Make sure the drain line is clear
• Check the drain hose for a partial blockage
• Inspect the water pump

Spin:

• Test the lid switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the water level switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission

Cycle does not advance

• If the washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer does not advance, the timer probably needs to be replaced
• If the timer does not advance while the washer is in a spin cycle, the timer probably needs to be replaced
• If the timer does not advance during the rinse cycle, check whether water has filled the tub, if not, it is likely cold water related. Check the cold water supply valve, check the supply hose for kinks, check the filter screen and check the water inlet valve

Burning or electrical smell

• Unplug the washer
• Locate the source of the odor then read the instructions in the related section

Foul or stale odor coming from washer or clothes

• Check that the drain line is clear
• Check the drain hose for kinks or blockages
• Check pump for blockages
• Check for build up of soap in the outer tub
• Check for article of clothing stuck in the outer tub

Noisy or vibrates too much

• General tips
• Balance the load
• Level the machine
• Inspect the water pump for a blockage
• Inspect the coupling
• Inspect the transmission
• Adjust the drive belt tension
• Check the motor bearings
• Check the drum brakes

Goes out of balance too often

• General tips
• Balance the load
• Level the machine
• Inspect the water pump

Clothing is damaged

• Inspect agitator for cracks or rough spots
• Inspect for rust spots

Sounds like timer needs replacing

SUDS DETECTION

During Drain Routine

During the Drain Routine, the water level is checked continuously. Normal drain will occur until the

pressure switch senses no water in the wash tub and there is no foam (suds). The drain pump will

operate an additional 15 seconds after the pressure switch reports no water or foam.

If the drain routine operates for four (4) minutes and the pressure switch senses any foam (suds) in

the wash tub, the Central Control Unit will start the "Kill-Foam" Routine. (See description of this

Routine below.) After the Kill-foam Routine is concluded, the Drain Routine will restart. If, after

four (4) minutes the pressure switch still senses foam in the wash tub, the Central Control Unit will

go into Failure Mode. The digital display will show, F02.

During Spin (Extract) Routine

During the Spin/Extract Routine the water level is checked continuously. If, during this routine, the

pressure switch senses the presence of foam (suds) in the wash tub, the Central Control Unit will

stop the drive motor and the basket will stop spinning. The electronic control will count the number

of spin repetitions that are attempted due to foam (suds). There are a maximum of three (3)

attempts for each Spin/Extract Routine.

Kill-Foam Routine

1. The Remaining Time counter is stopped.

2. The digital display shows Sud.

3. The Drain Pump is turned OFF.

4. The Central Control Unit will fill the wash tub with 1 gal. (4 L) of cold water.

5. While the tub is filling the basket will tumble 1 sec. ON/15 Sec. OFF.

6. Once the tub is filled, the drive motor will turn OFF and the basket will rest without any

movement for five (5) minutes.

7. After the five (5) minute rest, the remaining time counter will restart and the digital display

will show the remaining time left in the routine.

NOTE: If the Kill-Foam routine was initiated during a Spin/Extract Routine, the tumbling action

will be reduced to a cycle of 3 sec. ON/13 sec. OFF. If, at the end of either the Drain or Spin/

Extract Routines, a suds condition still remains, the digital display will show Sud.

Sud will also be displayed for a short period at the end of a cycle, if a Suds condition was

detected during the cycle. This will alert the consumer to reduce the amount of detergent in
subsequent uses.

Here's what I've seen. Water will be full, machine goes to spin/drain and expects the water to be pumped out as predicted. If pump is clogged, the pump cannnot pump out water quickly enough and the spinning causes the water to spill over the back of the tub, between the tub and balance ring. The balance ring is never sealed tightly to the tub so water will get through. Fill the basket with water, extra high, hold lid switch down, and see if it drains out fast enough so water doesn't spin out. If this is the case, pull pump, dislodge debris.

The most common cause of the problem you are experiencing is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare. If the model number you posted this question under is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 3949247.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.

The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

My Frigidaire front loader had the same problem. I spent $70 on a door latch/switch. It took about 30 minutes to do the swap. It was very easy. It fixed the problem. You can do it yourself with a square bit screwdriver. To get to the switch you remove the front bottom panel, then the front panel, then unscrew the switch. Swap wires one at a time from the old to the new switch. Then reverse everything. You'll want a helper to help with the panels. Good luck.

I could have saved money by buying online, but it ain't no fun when the washer is broke.

Hi


Thank You for using FixYa. If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump
If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.
To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.
Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.
If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.
It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.
It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:
If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.
If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.



Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

Below is a link to common solutions that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
It provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_11_1.asp#Level1_2

If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.

It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

• If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.
  
  
• If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.
  
  

It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
  
  
• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
  

If this doesn't help, post me back and I will do some more research to help resolve your issue.



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Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"