How do you remove the rotor from the crank.. I remove the center bolt, is the rotor pressed on or does it screw off? 10 hp briggs 5000w power mate

most briggs ive seen have two small screws on center hub that also double as hold downs for debris shield (screen)

Can be a bit fun to remove. Some use a jacking screw in place of the center retaining bolt and others it is to loosen the center bolt.

The loosening of the center bolt but not the removal prevent armature (rotor) from completely off as you loosed it. To loosen place a wooden 2x4 against the side of the rotor and give it good smack with a heavy hammer to jar the rotor off the tapered motor crankshaft. Once loosen then of course you remove the center bolt to remove the rotor.

DO NOT OPERATE the generator without the center retaining bolt in place as serious injuries can occur as the rotor goes fly off.

Take the through bolt out of the end of the alternator / rotor shaft. it is a long bolt. The shaft from the engine is tapered and unlikely to just pop off. Find a bolt that will screw into the end of the rotor shaft (hardend) find a metal bar that will slide into the rotor long enough so the bolt tightens down on the bar, it will pop the alternator off the tapered shaft

Unbolt and slide the stator over the rotor exposing it. Then simply unscrew the one bolt holding it to the crank. In my experience you need an impact to get the bolt out with spinning the engine and the rotor may need some negotiation to get off. Try a rubber mallet or a sledge with a block of wood, also may need to use a puller as well. Some come off easy but remember you can only hit a magnet so many times before it begins to lose magnetism.

The shaft end has a tapered fit along with a key. The trick is to apply pressure outward on the flywheel while tapping on the end of the shaft with a brass-head hammer--it usually releases suddenly, so be prepared. Hope this helps!

I am assuming that you have removed the end bell with
field winding and the only obstacle is the rotor on the
crank of the engine. I am also assuming that you were
able to remove the long bolt thru rotor into crank. Now
you will need to apply penetrating oil to the shaft of
the engine to loosen the rust on the taper. It may take
several applications. Place a piece of hardwood against
metal to protect the rotor and firmly rap with hammer on
both sides. You may need to use pry bar against engine
and rotor as you hammer hardwood. Repeat as necessary,
some rotors will be very stuck due to rust. Be very
carefull with hammer and or prybars not to damage
windings. Have patience and let oil work. Good luck.

I am assuming that you have removed the end bell with field winding and the only obstacle is the rotor on the crank of the engine.  I am also assuming that you were able to remove the long bolt thru rotor into crank. Now you will need to apply penetrating oil to the shaft of the engine to loosen the rust on the taper. It may take several applications. Place a piece of hardwood against metal  to protect the rotor and  firmly rap with hammer on both sides. You may need to use pry bar against engine and rotor as you hammer hardwood.  Repeat as necessary, some rotors will be very stuck due to rust. Good luck.   

A lot of these have a Woodruff key and are on a taper.

Some have success in seperating by putting a bolt in the end of the rotor shaft and pulling with a slide hammer to seperate. Make sure bolt has MANY threads engaged. Slide hammers are an autobody tool with a weighted handle that slides on a rod until it hit the end stop giving a sharp pulling force. Some have tried to fake this using a chain and a weight to give a yank on the bolt.

I can't be sure about yours however.

This is going to sound crazy but....with the bolt hole straight up fill the inside of the rotor shaft where the long mounting bolt passes through with oil. There should be a threaded area right at the bolt hole. Get a bolt to match the tread and then wrap the bolt with teflon pipe tape. Place a rag on the back of the engine and then start rotating the bolt. When it separates you will hear a BANG and the oil will drain onto the back of the motor where hopefully you put the rag. It really does get your attention when it pops loose.

Kelly

I would say, yes (given everything bolts up okay), but I wouldn't connect a full 5000-watt load to it.