Maytag Atlantis top-loading washer, purchased in 2002 or thereabouts....has a problem, I believe, with the temperature control board. Only fills with hot water, no cold....and when we did the test we learned about onlin, and switched the wire (I'm only vaguely remembering this...) on the control board, we could get only cold water. Is this good enough evidence to justify buying a new temperature control board?

SOURCE: Maytag Atlantis MAV200AWW Top Load

If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

SOURCE: Maytag washer

It sounds like you have the hot and cold water lines to the washer reversed.  Try turning off the tap for the hot water then setting the washer to just cold wash and then  hot washif you get nothing on the cold and cold water when set to hot they are probably reversed.  Typically if the auto-temp control is broken you will only get hot or cold coming out on any setting. 

SOURCE: washer's warm setting alternately fills hot and cold

Call for wty svc- the temp switch is bad; they had many of these built like that Please contact me if you need further help or leave feedback if appropriate as that is how I get paid. Thanks for letting me help you!

Archie Ferrarini

• 869 Answers
• Posted on Dec 02, 2008

SOURCE: Maytag Atlantis top-load washer won't fill with water, no power.

Not the lid switch>>>The water level switch ...unless you have forgot to turn the water on,Please Rate This !!!!

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Top Load FAV6800AWW -- tub/motor will not spin

Hey Cameron,
I saw you post today on another forum and did not have time to put my thoughts down before work. I agree not a clutch issue I had to :), you would be so lucky. I own the machine and can’t offer any more troubleshooting then what you have done, good job of that. Unfortunately the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM doesn’t have a whole lot of support for troubleshooting beyond what you have done for this issue. I found more info from the MAH3000 manual on the technical operation of the motor controller (slightly different controller). Both machines use the same troubleshooting paths. Remove JP4 which is;
P1 Motor Control common
P2 Torque (to Motor Controller) see page 1-11 MAH3000
P3 Motor Control Tach (to control board input)
My WAG is replace the Motor Controller 1st, then Control board 2nd and a possible tach issue related to the motor. That’s enough WAGing,…. but with troubleshooting not a complete WAG :).
Take a look at pages 2-5 thru 2-11, I keyed in on page 2-11 in the MAH3000, it may give you some additional insight, I know we are dealing with different machine designs but I think the designs are close regarding motor controller, the motor and what the Control Board is doing and looking for with input from the Motor Controller. I wish the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM gave this kind of detail for troubleshooting. There is a nice little troubleshooting table on 2-11.
I keyed in on this note;

The motor control monitors the signals and communicates this information to the machine control (control board). The purpose of this signal is to tell the motor when to energize each winding in the motor and to tell the machine control the actual motor speed.

Then this note;
Note: If the machine control board does not receive an input signal from the motor control/tachometer circuit (JP4 connector), the motor speed will rapidly accelerate for 5 seconds then shut down. The machine control will sense a "locked rotor" condition and the motor will stop. If the motor control does not receive an input signal from the motor, the motor will "****" for 5 seconds then shut down.

I don’t believe you have that condition. I have worked with a forum member who had an issue with the motor controller related to an Lr error, locked rotor error and replacing the Motor Controller fixed the issue. Form here I vote for an issue with the Motor Controller. Not having known good parts makes this a difficult job.
The control board is under warranty for 5 yrs from DOP, the Control Board is 2 yrs. Ebay is a good source 25001079

I would push Maytag CSV for both. I got them to send me a Control Board after discussing my troubleshooting and that I had a neighbor (me) that was a repair tech who would install. I also had to send them copy of my warranty not sure why they beeded that my machine was on file with them.
In your console you will find a Troubleshooting guide if you haven’t pulled it out already. It has the schematic for the machine which I find handy. If you want a soft PDF copy of the schematic I can e-mail you. Just ping me at [email protected]. I use that for one-way contact, just respond back on this post if you ping me, I don’t check the account for month’s at a time.
With my limited knowledge I will try to help you. Good luck. Rich

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