Trying to remove transmission, does not want to disengage from engine

I am going to assume an automatic tranny. Here is the long procedure.

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable(s).
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3. Remove the skidplate(s) if fitted.
4. Remove the skidplate support crossmember, if fitted.
5. Remove any exhaust pipes and crossover pipes that would interfere with transmission removal.
6. Disconnect the fluid cooler lines at the transmission.
7. Remove the starter motor.
8. On Ram: remove the engine-to-transmission struts, if fitted.
9. On Dakota and Durango:
   1. Support the engine with a suitable jack device and wooden block.
   2. Remove the bolts attaching the engine-to-transmission brackets to the transmission.
   3. Remove the bolt and nut securing each engine-to-transmission bracket to the motor mounts.
   4. Remove the engine-to-transmission brackets from the front axle, if fitted.
   5. Loosen the brackets on each side of the engine block.
10. Disconnect and remove the crankshaft position sensor. Retain the sensor attaching bolts.
11. Remove the torque converter access cover.
12. If the transmission is being removed for rebuilding, remove the oil pan and drain the fluid. Reinstall the pan before removing the unit to protect internal components.
13. Remove the fill tube bracket bolts and pull the tube out of the transmission. Retain the fill tube seal.
14. On 4x4 vehicles, remove the bolt attaching the transfer case vent tube to the converter housing.
15. Mark the torque converter and drive plate for assembly alignment. Note that the bolt holes in the crankshaft flange, drive plate, and torque converter all have one offset hole.
16. Rotate the crankshaft CW until the converter bolts are accessible. Then remove the bolts one at a time. Rotate the crankshaft with a socket wrench on the dampener bolt.
17. Matchmark the driveshaft(s) and yokes or flanges for assembly alignment, then disconnect and remove them. On 4x4 vehicles, remove the front driveshaft as well.
18. Disconnect the wires from the park/neutral position switch and the transmission solenoid.
19. Disconnect the gearshift rod and torque shaft assembly from the transmission.
20. Disconnect the throttle valve cable from the transmission bracket and throttle valve lever.
21. On 4x4 models, disconnect the shift rod from the transfer case shift lever.
22. Support the rear of the engine with safety stands or a heavy-duty jack.
23. Raise the transmission slightly with a service jack to relieve the load on the crossmember and supports.
24. Remove the bolts securing the rear support and cushion to transmission and crossmember.
25. Raise the transmission slightly, slide the exhaust hanger arm from the bracket and remove the rear support.
26. Remove the bolts attaching the crossmember to the frame. Remove the crossmember.
27. On 4x4 vehicles, remove the transfer case.
28. Attach a small C-clamp to the edge of the bell housing to hold the converter in place during transmission removal. Otherwise the front pump bushing might be damaged.
29. Remove the converter housing bolts.
30. Carefully work the transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off the engine block dowels.
31. Lower the transmission assembly and remove it from the vehicle.
32. To remove the torque converter, remove the C-clamp from the edge of the bell housing and carefully slide the torque converter out of the transmission.

why not login in to mitchell DIY, (goggle it ) and read.
or go to any online, 4L30 parts house and read.
lots of those, can all found easy using "GOOGLE"
here.
search, (4L30 parts)
3rd hit MAKCO
see the graphic there, click it.

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/4L30E.html

you need to remove the TC, bolts first
the bell housings bolts to the engine,
those come off, with tranny jack in place.
all the steps are in the service manual.
4wd.
quote (a wall of text, why not buy the book?)

& Transfer Case Automatic Transmission Transmission Removal 4L30-E Transmission

4L30-E Transmission(removal

Print
4L30-E Transmission
Disengage the oxygen sensor connector from the transmission wiring harness connector

Disengage the oxygen sensor connector from the transmission wiring harness connector
Detach the selector lever end of the shift lock cable from the lever assembly by loosening the adjusting nuts and sliding the end out of the bracket

Detach the selector lever end of the shift lock cable from the lever assembly by loosening the adjusting nuts and sliding the end out of the bracket

Disconnect the shift control rod from the selector lever lower lever arm

Disconnect the shift control rod from the selector lever lower lever arm

Remove the oil pipe clamp bracket from the engine stiffener

Remove the oil pipe clamp bracket from the engine stiffener
Make certain to tighten the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts to the proper amount of torque-the torque measurements are shown in parentheses

Make certain to tighten the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts to the proper amount of torque-the torque measurements are shown in parentheses


NOTE

The transfer case is an integral part of the transmission housing. Although the 2 cases can be separated, the transfer case should be removed with the transmission.

Use a felt-tipped marker to matchmark the hood to the hood hinges. Remove the hood.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Shift the transmission into the N position, and the transfer case into the 2H position.

Remove the air cleaner assembly.

Remove the transfer case shift knob. Remove the 4 transmission cover console retaining screws.

Remove the center console assembly and disengage the console switch wiring connectors.

Disconnect the shift lock cable and the shift control rod from the selector lever assembly.

Unbolt and remove the transfer case control lever.

Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.

Remove the transmission and transfer case skid plates.

Remove the exhaust pipe protectors.

Drain the transmission fluid. For more information servicing the transmission fluid pan and filter, refer to Section 1.

Label and detach the oxygen sensor connectors.

Remove the catalytic converter, center exhaust pipe and front exhaust pipe, as described in Section 3.

Matchmark the front and rear driveshafts to the differential and transfer case flanges.

Unbolt and remove the front and rear driveshafts, as described later in this section.

Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission. Plug the lines to prevent fluid loss and contamination.

Remove the brackets securing the oil cooler lines to the engine stiffener.

Remove the front suspension crossmember.

Remove the dipstick and tube. Disconnect the breather hoses from the tube.

Remove the 5 engine stiffener bracket bolts and the stiffener bracket.

Remove the heat protector.

Disengage the transmission harness connectors and the mode switch harness connector from the engine harness.

Disconnect the harness clamp from the clamp bracket.

Disconnect the ground cable from the engine.

Remove the starter motor, as described in Section 2.

Remove the flexplate inspection cover.

Remove the 3 bolts securing the flexplate to the torque converter. Turn the crankshaft to gain access to all 3 bolts.

NOTE

Remove the radiator upper fan shroud and the cooling fan to access the crankshaft center bolt to turn the crankshaft.

Place a suitable transmission jack under the transmission and transfer case unit for support.

Raise the transmission slightly and remove the 8 bolts securing the rear mount and the transmission crossmember.

NOTE

Make sure the engine and transmission assembly is properly supported before removing the rear mount and third crossmember.

Raise the engine slightly with an engine hoist and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts.

Separate the transmission from the engine and lower the transmission from the vehicle.
end removal quote

why not post symptoms first, (like, my clutch pedal is dead) or?
manual or automatic trans/ both have clutches.?????
metro ended in 97 and was then and a Chevrolet nameplate from 1998 to 2001
metro, is covered in all metro, FSM books
all metro forums
see vast links here
http://www.fixkick.com/swift.html

online:
and at alldata.com
mitchels.
dont know year, ?

my wild guess. on what is there, M/T stick shift car.

M/T stick

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Transmission assembly and matchmark the flywheel to the engine
   • Clutch pressure plate cover by slowly and evenly loosening the bolts until the spring tension is released
   • Clutch disc

Trans out,

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Drain the transmission fluid.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Both front wheels
   • Backup lamp switch electrical connector
   • Clutch release lever from the clutch release shaft
   • Clutch cable bracket and move it aside
   • Negative battery cable and hanger from the transmission
   • Gearshift guide case bolts and set the engine wire harness and bracket aside
   • Speedometer cable
   • Starter motor
   • Two right side upper case-to-engine bolts
4. Install an engine support fixture.
   • Both drive axles after properly supporting the transmission
   • Flywheel cover
   • Control joint shaft through bolt and separate the control shaft from the control joint
   • Gearshift control lever guide plate and separate the extension rod from the lever guide plate
5. Support the transmission.
   • Bolts from the rear transmission mount
   • Left side mounting bracket bolts
   • Right side case-to-engine mounting bolts
   • Transmission through the left side of the engine compartment and make certain that the input shaft clears the clutch pressure plate

the MUA box? NOT THE T5R, so why not just say it????


may be the Fly wheel pilot bearing is seized.?

my guess you got to step 12 (12 = 1 below)

1. Remove the slave cylinder heat protector. Unbolt and remove the slave cylinder. Don't disconnect the hydraulic line.
2. Remove the slave cylinder dust covers.
3. Matchmark the driveshafts at the flanges and remove them.
4. Disconnect the reverse light switch, 4WD indicator switch, 1-2 and 3-4 indicator switch harness connectors.
5. Disconnect the speed sensor harness connector.
6. Remove the 2 harness clamps from the transmission case.
7. Attach a chain hoist to the engine.
8. Using a transmission jack, raise the transmission slightly. Remove the 2 rear transmission mounting nuts.
9. Remove the center crossmember (8 bolts).

21 is for 4wd
1 below is 22

1. Remove the 3 flywheel inspection cover bolts.
2. Use clutch release bearing remover J-39207 or an equivalent pry tool to release the bearing from the pressure plate. Push the release fork toward the rear of the vehicle. Insert the tool between the release bearing and the pressure plate collar. Move the lever to the rear to pry.
3. Raise the engine slightly with a chain hoist and remove the bolts and nuts securing the transmission to the engine.
4. Carefully pull the transmission rearward. Lower the transmission from the vehicle.

I'd never do major work on any drive line with out the FSM at my side.
or a login acount at alldata.com
or fail big time, for $15 bucks, was it worth it, bet not.

Hi, do you have the Windstar or Econoline van? I assume this is a Windstar. The procedure is below.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
3. Recover and recycle the refrigerant from the A/C system.
4. Remove the cowl top vent panel.
5. Diconnect the wiring from the alternator.
6. Loosen the air cleaner outlet tube clamp at the throttle body and remove the engine air cleaner assembly.
7. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses and secure to engine.
8. Disconnect the heater water hoses and secure to body.
9. Disconnect and plug the A/C discharge and suction hoses and secure to engine.
10. Disconnect accelerator cable and speed control cable from the throttle body lever.
11. Remove the accelerator cable bracket from the throttle body.
12. Disconnect fuel supply and return lines from the fuel injection supply manifold.
13. Label and disconnect all engine wiring harnesses from the engine and secure to the body.
14. Label and disconnect all vacuum hoses from the engine.
15. Remove the gear shift cable from the transaxle.

Damage to the steering column air bag wiring cab result if the steering wheel is allowed to rotate freely. The wire is wound like a watch spring and can be overtightened and break of the steering wheel is rotated too far in either direction.

1. Lock the steering wheel with wheels in the straight ahead position by turning the ignition to the OFF position.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. Drain and recycle the engine oil.
5. Disconnect and plug the transaxle cooler lines at the transaxle. Secure the lines to the radiator.
6. Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor wiring harness.

Do not allow the flex connector of the duel converter Y-pipe to hang unsupported or damage to the flex joint will result.

1. Disconnect the dual converter Y-pipe and support to the body.

The routing of the battery ground cable to the cylinder block is critical. It should go between the transaxle and the bracket. Take note during disassembly.

1. Disconnect the starter motor wires and secure out of the way.
2. Remove the starter motor.
3. Remove the engine rear plate and torque converter-to-flywheel nuts.
4. Disconnect and plug the power steering cooler lines.
5. Remove the upper bolt from the sway bar links.
6. Remove the dust boot from the steering rack pinion support by gently spreading the integral tension ring and pushing upward.
7. Remove the steering coupling pinch bolt form the steering column intermediate shaft at the steering gear.
8. Remove the intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
9. Remove the front stabilizer bar links.
10. Separate the front suspension lower arms from the knuckles at the ball joint.
11. Separate the tie rod ends from the knuckle.
12. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainers from the halfshaft ends.
13. Remove the halfshafts from the front wheel knuckle.
14. Support the front subframe, engine and transaxle assembly.
15. Remove the four retaining bolts and lower the engine transaxle and front subframe from vehicle.
16. Disconnect the power steering pressure hose from the power steering pump.
17. Attach and engine hoist and lift the engine slightly.
18. Remove the engine support insulators.
19. Lift the engine and transaxle assembly from the front subframe.
20. Lower engine and transaxle.
21. Supprot transaxle on a level stationary surface and separate the engine from the transaxle.

One may need to get a breaker bar or a pulley tensioner wrench set from your local auto parts store to easily reach the tensioner pulley. Sometimes at places like Autozone and Advance Auto Parts the tool set can be purchased and returned, essentially, borrowing the tool set from them.
What tool are you using to release the tension from the belt?
--- REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the accessory drive belt. After disconnecting the battery and removing the drive belt, unplug the single wire connector . . .
   . . . then the multi-wire connector from the back of the alternator - integral regulator units lack the single wire
   If the push-on connectors are difficult to remove, use a small pick to disengage the connector latch
   Unbolt the battery (B+) lead from the back of the alternator . . .
   
   
3. Label and disengage all of the wiring connectors from the alternator. To disconnect push-on type terminals, disengage the lock tab and pull straight off.
4. Remove the alternator bolts, then remove the alternator from the engine . . . then remove the alternator mounting bolts
   Remove the alternator from its mounting bracket
   To install:
   
5. Position the alternator on the engine.
6. Install the alternator mounting bolts. On 3.8L and 5.0L engines, tighten the upper bolt to 16-21 ft. lbs. (21-29 Nm) and the lower bolt to 30-40 ft. lbs. (40-55 Nm). On 4.6L engines, tighten both bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
7. On 4.6L engines, install the alternator mounting bracket and bolts. Tighten the bolts to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).
8. Install the accessory drive belt. Ensure that the drive belt is properly installed on the pulleys before starting the engine.
9. Attach all engine wiring harness connectors to the alternator.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.

Removal & Installation To Remove:
Transmission mounting on 2.2L engines

Transmission mounting on 4.3L engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
3. Drain the transmission fluid.
4. Remove the driveshaft from the transmission (2WD) and transfer case, if equipped (4WD or AWD).
5. Support the transmission with a suitable transmission jack.
6. Remove the shift cable from the transmission control lever and bracket.
7. Remove the nut and washer securing the transmission mount to the crossmember.
8. Remove the bolts and washers securing the mount to the transmission.
9. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold(s).
10. If equipped, remove the bolts securing the converter pan cover to the transmission.
11. Remove the 3 bolts securing the torque converter to the flywheel.
12. Remove the bolt, clip, and strap securing the three fuel lines and transmission vent hose to the transmission case.
13. Remove the bolts and nut securing the transmission to the engine.
14. Remove the oil filler tube and seal from the transmission.
15. Disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the transmission. Plug the lines and the ports in the transmission.
16. Unplug the wiring harness connectors from the transmission.
17. Inspect for any other wiring, brackets etc. which may interfere with the removal of the transmission.
18. Since the transmission acts as a rear engine mount, properly support the rear of the engine with an underbody support of other suitable support before attempting to remove the transmission. Otherwise the rear of the engine may pitch downward and components on the rear of the engine and on the firewall may be damaged.
19. Remove the transmission from the engine by pulling the transmission rearward to disengage it from the locator dowel pins on the back of the block. Carefully lower the transmission from the vehicle. Use care that the torque converter does not fall out of the front of the transmission

Hope this is not your first, if it is you picked a tough one to learn on. Here goes:1 disconnect negative battery cable 2 Raise and support the car, a lift is the best tool for the job here, but you can do this on jackstands, they just need to be tall ones at least 2 feet of clearance under the car. 3 Install engine holding fixture, this supports the back of the engine when you remove the crossmember and trans.4 remove left front wheel, seperate ball joint remove drive axle retaining nut then remove drive axle from transaxle by prying at joint closest to transaxle. Do not pull on the outer joint or you will pull the inner joint apart. 5 place transmission jack under transaxle pan. 6 remove bolts from crossmember then remove the crossmember 7 remove inspection cover then remove three torque converter bolts 8 remove transmission cooling lines from fittings on transmission 9 remove shift cable 10 unplug 4 wire plug from front side of transmission 11 remove 6 bolts from bell housing 12 remove speedometer cable 13 remove three bolts from around right hand drive axle, then pry axle loose from transmission. You do not need to remove axle from car, just let it hang.14 pull transmission away from engine far enough to disengage the alignment dowels and finish pulling right hand drive axle from transmission housing then lower the transmission to the floor 15 pull transmission from under vehicle.

Removal & Installation


Rotate the tensioner and remove the belt from around the alternator pulley


Detach the 2 connectors from the alternator


Slide the boot up to access the battery cable on the rear of the alternator


Remove the nut retaining the battery cable and . . .


. . . remove the battery cable from the post on the rear of the alternator


Remove the three alternator rear mounting bolts


Remove the two front alternator mounting bolts


Remove the alternator from the engine by carefully lifting it up and out of the engine compartment

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
4. Tag and disconnect the wiring connectors from the rear (or side) of the alternator. To disconnect push-on type terminals, depress the lock tab and pull straight off.
   
5. On 3.8L and 4.6L engines, rotate the automatic tensioner away from the drive belt and disengage the drive belt from the alternator pulley. Remove the alternator brace.
   
6. On 3.8L engines, remove the alternator pivot bolts, top and bottom and remove the alternator.
   
7. On 5.0L engines, loosen the alternator pivot bolt and remove the adjusting bolt. Disengage the drive belt from the alternator pulley.
   
8. On 3.8L and 5.0L engines, remove the alternator pivot bolt and the alternator. On 4.6L engines, remove the alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator.
   
9. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. On 4.6L engines, tighten the alternator mounting bolts to 15–22 ft. lbs. (20–30 Nm) and the alternator brace bolts to 70–106 inch lbs. (8–12 Nm). In addition, on 5.0L engines, adjust the drive belt tension
   

REMOVAL:

1. Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
3. Raise and support vehicle.
4. Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
5. Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
6. Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
7. Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
8. Remove transmission.
9. Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
10. Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
11. Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
12. Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
13. Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.

INSTALLATION:

1. Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
   1. Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
   2. Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
   3. tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
   4. Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
   5. Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
   6. To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.
   
   
2. Install transmission to flywheel housing.
3. Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
4. Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
5. Install starter motor.
6. Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
   1. Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
   2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
   
   
7. Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable