SOURCE: SRM 450 Mackie
1)Clean the heat sinks on the amp on the back of the speaker,
2) carefully remove the amp from the rear of the cabinet and look for 'crispy critters' on the circuit board. If you see 'um, either take the amp to a service center, or go to your dealer and get him to order you a new one.
3) if you're goin' thermal, either get higher powered speakers, or tune it back a bit with these. I have a set that has run years in a dance room with no problems. If you are stretching the system to cover a bigger audience, think about another pair.
SOURCE: I have Mackie srm 450 original the speaker
When it goes off, try pressing gently on the speaker membrane (you'll probably need to remove the protective mesh to do that).
If the speaker comes on for an instant or so when you press the membrane, then the cause is a broken braid wire at the back of the speaker (it goes from the connection terminal on the speaker itself to the speaker cone where it is connected to the speaker coil wire and glued to the cone to keep it firmly in place).
If this turns out to be the case, the braid can be resoldered at the point where it is damaged / broken (you need good soldering skills to do it, also the braid needs to be cleaned well which is a bit tricky because of its structure, and solder won't stick to it well if it's not clean).
The solder point should be firm, but as small and short as possible because the braid needs to remain flexible at all times since it moves when the speaker is operating.
An alternative to braid resoldering is to replace the speaker, but there may be speaker repair shops around where you can get it fixed.
The problem may as well be something else, the above is just one of the things that you can check and possibly fix by yourself.
Regards
3rq8 (Triarcuate)
Testimonial: "sounds feasible will look into that soon altho away for some weeks yet so cant try immediatly TS"
SOURCE: hello there i have a
The most common cause of this is a blown horn. A replacement can be ordered from Mackie directly. Remove the screws that hold the plastic horn in place. At the rear of this part will be the tweeter assembly that unscrews from the horn. This needs to be replaced.
Another possibility is that the tweeter driver has broken from the horn itself and is inside the cabinet. Remove the horn and you may find that the aluminum part has broken. Replace the horn which comes with that part and you should be fine.
Dan
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The fuse is fine... nothing inside is burnt or weird.. There seems to be a "Protect" mode thats stays on... I never use it and now after maybe 1 week of use in 3 years... kaput???
HELP !!!
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