Jenn-Air JED8230 Electric Cooktop Logo

Related Topics:

Anonymous Posted on Oct 31, 2011

I have voltage to each side but the burners will not heat up. Indicator lite comes on and the blower comes on

1 Answer

Anonymous

Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master 2,341 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 31, 2011
Anonymous
Master
Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Joined: Jul 18, 2011
Answers
2341
Questions
4
Helped
636807
Points
7414

Hello Gary,
Their is one of two things wrong why your surface burners are not working.
1) the block that the burners plug into it bad...it is very common for the burner block to be worn down and making very poor contact with the burners and thus their is power at the blocks and yet the burners will not work
2) the burners their self are bad

GENE

  • 5 more comments 
  • Anonymous Oct 31, 2011

    the block appears to be solid I have 120 volts in each port, they both stopped working the same time

  • Anonymous Oct 31, 2011

    also there are 2 separate heating elements so the odds of both going ba at the same time are like winning the lotto. I have switched elements with no reults

  • Anonymous Oct 31, 2011

    Oh ok do the elements work when put on the other side?? if you have 120 on each terminal at the block ,for a total of 240 when checking both at the same time,thats the best way to check is both wires at the same time one meter lead in each and not one wire to ground and then the other to ground but both at the same time for 240 at the elements ...i know the exterior of the block can appear to look good yet they are still no good i have seen that so many thousands of times in my appliance repair career...if ya do have 240 at both wires then again its either the block or the element and teh element could be checked by setting your meter to ohms a see if each element has continuity...with 240 at the block and continuty its the blocks that are bad if only 120 to blocks then the control switch would be the problem

  • Anonymous Nov 02, 2011

    The burners check out good. If I put the leads for the meter in both live ports I get zero, put 1 in the cener round port (ground) and the other into either slotted (hot port) I get 120 volts in each one.

  • Anonymous Nov 02, 2011

    OK Gary, So on each of the two terminal for the burner their should be 240 when turned on and not just 120 to each one to ground but 240 total to both of them. If ya place a different cartridge in the side that is giving ya trouble does that different cartridge work ..or even does that cartridge that isnt working,work it placed on the other side??The way the cartridges are wired is 4 spade pins and 1 round pin their is a 1 spade pin common to both burners 1 for one burners 1 for the other burner and the 4th spade for the fan circuit plus of course the ground so it if cartridge works on the other side the problem is going to be either with the control switches or the plug that the cartridge plugs into has a broken wire from the switch to that plug...if that cartridge does not work on either side the problem is going to a broken wire at one of the pins or the spade pin common to both burners is worn down..ONCE AGAIN BOTH WIRES TO A BURNER SHOULD READ 240 AT THE METER WHEN TURNED ON AND NOT 120 TO EACH WIRE TO GROUND

  • Anonymous Nov 03, 2011

    Gene, I followed your advice regarding 220 across the terminals, didn't happen. I checked the voltage coming in again and discovered that one leg was 110v and the other was zero. I tested the voltage across the breaker it read 240. I pulled the breaker tested continuity and it showed good. I tested the wire for ground, in case there was a break, and it showed good. I put everything back and the cooktop works. Last week I replaced the breaker below it and possibly disrupted the connection on the stove top breaker. Will keep you posted if there are any other problems. Thank you for the input, I could not have figured it out without you input. Ist time on this site and very happy

  • Anonymous Nov 03, 2011

    You are so welcome Gary and i am happy to have helped!! if you would please take a second and rate my answer with 5 stars that would be much appreciated

×

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Electric schott ceran glass cooktop model number ISE630WS01 right burner not working

Based on your question that the right front burner of your Schott Ceran glass cooktop is not working, here are some steps you can try to troubleshoot the issue:
  1. Check the power supply: Make sure that the cooktop is properly connected to a power source and that the circuit breaker or fuse is not tripped. If the circuit breaker is tripped, reset it and try turning on the burner again.
  2. Check the burner control switch: The burner control switch regulates the power to the burner. Check if the switch is loose, damaged, or defective. You can test the switch for continuity with a multimeter to determine if it is functioning properly.
  3. Check the heating element: If the burner control switch is not the problem, the issue may be with the heating element. Check the element for visible damage, such as cracks, burn marks, or discoloration. If you see any damage, the element may need to be replaced.
  4. Check the wiring: Check the wiring connections between the burner control switch and the heating element. If any of the connections are loose or damaged, this may be causing the issue.
  5. Test with a different burner: If you have multiple burners on your cooktop, try testing the right front burner with a different control switch or heating element to determine if the issue is with the burner or another component.
The above are basic means of troubleshooting, the following below will add more to the solution above;

Check the control board: The control board is responsible for sending power to the heating elements. Check the control board for any signs of damage or burning, and test it for continuity using a multimeter.
  • Check the thermal fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety device that cuts off power to the heating elements if they overheat. Check the thermal fuse with a multimeter to see if it has blown. If it has, you will need to replace it.
  • Check the switch relay: The switch relay is another component that can cause the burner to not work. Check the switch relay for any signs of damage, and test it with a multimeter to see if it is functioning properly.
  • Test the voltage supply: Use a multimeter to test the voltage supply to the burner. If there is no voltage, this could indicate a problem with the control board, thermal fuse, or switch relay.
  • Check for loose connections: Inspect all wiring connections between the control board, switch relay, and heating element. Loose or damaged connections can cause the burner to not work.
  • Feb 05, 2023 • Cooktops
    0helpful
    1answer

    Have a thermador psc364gdzs the spark does not work for the gridle

    The spark module is in the ignition circuit for the gas burners. When a burner control knob is turned to the Lite position, it provides voltage to the spark electrodes on the gas burners. If the spark module fails to provide the electrodes with voltage, then it should be replaced.
    0helpful
    1answer

    Hello,My mom has a Maytag MER7662WW glass top stove with both the right side burners no longer working. Any suggestions?

    The oven safety valve
    (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
    I offer free advicebcuzGod is so good!


    Surface burners
    are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

    On modern electronic control ranges,the oven temperature sensor
    is the part thatregulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meterbut will need to know the correctresistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

    The infinite switch
    on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check foroverheated wires or faulty terminals first.Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
    1. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.(Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
    1. On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
    1. Set yourmultimeterto ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.

    1. Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
    1. If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
    1. With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
    1. A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
    If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

    Most modern ovens usean electronic control board
    to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

    element burner testing range element-short.2-undefined-undefined-0_0.gif

    element burner 0-undefined-undefined-2.jpg

    infinte switch_noheat_03-undefined-undefined-5_0.jpg

    infinite switchs stove-undefined-undefined-9.jpg
    0helpful
    1answer

    The heat indicator light does not turn off even when burner is cold

    It is either the control for that burner or the sensor on the burner. have to check with a meter to verify which one it is.
    Eric
    2helpful
    2answers

    Our Dacor gas cooktop igniter won't click. When I turn on the burner, you can hear the gas coming out, but no click so the burner won't lite.

    Go to RepairClinic.com and check on how much a new igniter is. Is there two or 4 igniters on your model (lift the top of the range up and it is the little silver piece sticking out with a white base around it), If its 2 is the other side working? Make sure there is no food deposits around where the gas and the spark meet.
    May 01, 2009 • Cooktops
    1helpful
    1answer

    Wirlpool elect range GR465LXLS, cant control heat on dbl burner

    yes it is your control infinite switch the knob swicht that goes from 1 to 10 or min to max thanks from gilles
    Mar 13, 2009 • GE Cooktops
    0helpful
    1answer

    My Kenmore cooktop will not heat properly, all 4 burners. They turn on and heat a little bit, but the burner on lights do not light up and the burners do not heat to full temperature. I closed my oven...

    hi my name is mark, a service tech needs to check the voltage to the cook top. you will probably find improper voltage. check data plate for proper voltage should be 208v or 230v depending onwhere you live.
    0helpful
    1answer

    Two burners wont ignite

    Sounds like the electric sending unit for the right burners is not working. Do you hear the cliking noise on the right side when you turn the knob to LITE? If not then you need to replace the electric sending unit, they are located under the knobs, they are a smal square box that goes on the switch valve rod, they have tow wires on the side, just unplug and lift, and look for greasse or anything that might interrup contact, you might be able to use the same ones, or just replace with new ones....Good Luck
    Eddie Rentas
    Tupper LAke NY
    Jul 14, 2008 • Cooktops
    0helpful
    2answers

    Jenn-Air electric stove top - burners/fan won't come on

    you may have lost a leg of your 240V service. make sure you have 240 to the appliance and then start chasing down where you lost it. there is no onboard trip or reset on this unit
    0helpful
    1answer

    Remove ceramic cooktop

    grouch, kill the power to the cooktop. You are going to have to remove the mounting brackets from undernieth and push the cooktop up. After it's up from it's installation position remove the side and back screws holding the top to the botom. Remove the burner knobs and it should come apart. Sounds like you have a bad burner switch. Catriver..post back
    Not finding what you are looking for?

    490 views

    Ask a Question

    Usually answered in minutes!

    Top Jenn-Air Cooktops Experts

    Paul Carew

    Level 3 Expert

    3808 Answers

    Paul Bade

    Level 3 Expert

    1818 Answers

    Brad Brown

    Level 3 Expert

    19187 Answers

    Are you a Jenn-Air Cooktop Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

    Answer questions

    Manuals & User Guides

    Loading...