Commercial cooler my cooler went down two days ago...fan still running but not cooling. removed panel and vacuumed a considerable amount of dust off filter. now it is actually blowing hot air??? Is there a reset button or something?

Question edited for clarity.

It is cutting On and Off due to a device called a Clixon, which is an overheat cut out.

Remove the grille at the bottom below the door and you will see the condenser fins. They will be clogged with lint, dirt and dust. Vacuum it all off. You should be able to see through it. Engineers use a degreasing aerosol spray like this

Web 19 oz. Condenser Coil Cleaner WCOIL19

Home Depot https://www.homedepot.com > Web-19-oz-Condenser...

Helps remove soil and build-up on condenser coils · Spray directly on condensate coils and wash off detergent with water hose · Biodegradable formula · Aerosol can ...
Rating: 4.2 · ‎854 reviews · ‎US$8.98

... and then they use a small pump sprayer to carefully flush the dirt out onto paper towels below it. WITHOUT spraying any electrics!

Then go to the back of the fridge (which is normally open at the bottom) and clean the condenser fan motor and blades with a small paint brush and vacuum the dust away. Now make sure that fan is turning when you switch it back on. This fan not only pulls cold air from the front and through the condenser, but it also cools the compressor as well. Overheating a compressor will make it fail prematurely in months.

This should fix it. In a commercial setting, this needs doing every 6 months.

This is your controller manual and details, but that isn't the issue, it is lack of airflow causing overheating.

https://www.google.com/search?q=coca-cola+cooler+with+a+elstat+100+controller

And how to clean the coils

https://www.google.com/search?q=commercial+display+fridge+condenser+cleaning

..

This is usually dust clogging up the CPU cooler.
When the owner of the PC forgets to clean the fins and the fan of the CPU cooler it plugs up with dust and dirt and looks like the inside of a vacuum cleaner.
There is not enough airflow and thus not enough cooling, so the CPU overheats and the safety circuit shuts the CPU off until it cools down, and the CPU will not reboot the PC until it is cool enough that the safety circuit can reset.

First step remove the CPU fan and check the fins of the CPU cooler. If they are clean, the problem is usually somewhere else.

Hi

Power downs as you describe are almost allways, caused by a overheat, open the case check your CPU cooling fan, if it running ok then remove it and remove all dust from the fan and the vents on the cooler if its not running or seems to be running slow then replace the cooler this will cure your issue

Cliff C

I have a portable Haier Commercial cool and I had the same problem. I did regularly clean the filter. Finally I decided I was either going to throw it away or have to open it up for a thorough cleaning. I don't even want to describe the disgusting dust build up inside. Surprisingly the water reservoir was not so bad. I am sure they don't recommend it but I was able to remove the front and back panels, vacuum thoroughly, wipe down the insides and reassemble and it works like new again. It is unreasonable for things like this or fans to be expected to run for years without a proper cleaning. The manufacturers must have disgusting home standards.

Due to their small size and lack of ventilation, laptops tend to overheat more than desktop computers. A noisy cooling fan that runs continuously is one sign that your laptop is overheating. Laptop overheating can also cause a loss of performance, system crashes, and even permanent damage to components. The goal is to make sure your laptop has proper ventilation and is kept as cool as possible.

1.Always use your laptop on a tray, desktop, or other cool surface. If you use it on your lap, make sure clothes, upholstery or bedding are not blocking the case vents. Blocked vents are the number one cause of laptop overheating.

2.Use an aerosol air duster, or can of compressed air, to blow dust from the air intake vents. Air intake vents are a set of slots on the side or bottom of the case that allow cool air to flow into the laptop.

3.Clean the cooling fan exhaust system. The cooling or CPU fan is located on the side or back of the case. A clogged CPU fan vent keeps hot air trapped inside the case. Use an aerosol air duster to loosen the debris, then use a vacuum cleaner with crevice tool to vacuum out the dust and dirt.

4.Use a commercial laptop cooler. A laptop cooler pad is an external USB powered fan that serves as a base for your laptop. If your laptop generates a lot of heat, even with a clean cooling system, a laptop cooler will extend the life of your laptop.

5.Adjust your BIOS settings. Most laptops have features built into the system BIOS that allow fan speed, CPU temperature alarms, and other settings to be adjusted. Read your owner's manual to learn how to enter the BIOS and change the settings for your particular laptop model.

Remove the back.
Remove the fans. See of the heat sink is not plugged up with dust. If so vacuum it out.
Get a dc voltmeter. Fire up the fridge. Set it to cool. With the fans running, check for 12 volts on the connector that's on the lower left of the circuit board. This connector powers the Peltier cooling chip. If you have 12 volts, and no cooling the Peltier cooling chip is bad, ir the second fuse is out. There is a small cylindrical fuse near the lower left corner of the circuit board. Carefully check for voltage across it. If the fuse is good, and the fans running, you will not sense voltage across this fuse. Bad, you will read ~12-16 volts.

If your Peltier Chip is bad, it's usually caused by over heating from a plugged up heat sink or fan stoppage. These chips are available off E-bay for ~$13, but require nearly a total tear down of the fridge to change it. 95% of these cooler chips are single layer, square, and vary in thickness. You should find one that is drop-in should you choose to 'Go for it'. Look for a 60-80 watt unit that is the same or slightly thicker, and the same size square.

Your fan speeds up and slows down in response to temperature inside the computer. More so the CPU.

I would suggest getting a can of compressed air made for computers

take it outside, take of the side and blow all the gunk out of there, Really go to town around the fan (you might want to wear eye protection)
While you are in there just check that the CPU cooler itself is not loose

If it is it will have to be re-seated.

If it needs re-seating don't just take it off and put it back on as that might make things worse with your temperature problem they have to be cleaned and new thermal grease put on ($2-5)

DON'T remove the CPU just the fan/cooler assembly.

You must clean both the surfaces without scraping anything off. Use isopropynol alcohol and cotton bud sticks until both surfaces are clean, you can use your finger nail to scrape harder residue if you wish but nothing else.

DON'T pour the alcohol over the CPU

Now apply some new thermal grease (most computer shops have it)

Be careful about how much you put on

Here are some basic instructions

Once you have re-assembled your cooler and re-connected it check everything is OK and power up the computer.

If everything went to plan you should now be back in business

If there is no refrigeration effect at all call for service, if there is partial refrigeration remove the grille in the front below the doors and make sure the condenser coil is not fouled with dust, with the refrigerator running the fan in the back should be running as well.
If the coil is full of dust use a vacuum to clean it best you can, if a clogged coil is the culprit cleaning is "some" will provide results.
If the fan in back is not running when the refrigerator is running call for service.

A few possible solutions.

You said that you got some canned air to blew it out... what I normally like to do is simply use a vacuum and **** up as much dust as possible (besides who wants dust in your face?). Once that is done, I would advise that you take off the fan from the CPU cooler itself and get in there with either the canned air or vacuum... simply because with the fan still attached, there is possibly still a layer to caked dust under the fan and on top of the heat sink.

If it is any of the other case fans, I would either get in there and vacuum them out really good or simply replace them. My computer use to sound like a jet engine after 2 years but when I replaced my fans (with cool blue LED ones) it was significantly (can't stress enough) quieter. Most fans are of course using ball bearings, so if you can imagine the bearings getting a good layer of dust in them as well...

blow out the dust around the outside fan and heat sink