The breaker to the washer is on, but the washer does not run.
SOURCE: My LG washer lost all power while running.
There is probably a little trap door on the front of the machine right near the bottom. Behind this, you will find what looks like a large screw cap. If you undo that, you will release the water from the machine (it's the lint trap), so be prepared for a lot of water with a few buckets or bowls that you can put under it. Once the water is out, the door should release
SOURCE: whirlpool commercial washer stopped running mid
If the timer and lid switches are funtional and the machine is filling and shutting off correctly that only leaves the motor. Have the motor tested or replace it. Even though the timer is running it is possible that it is still at fault. If you have access to another timer try switching them to make sure it isn't the timer. This does sound like a faulty motor and I would start with that assumption.
SOURCE: kenmore topload washer -- model
Sounds like a bad lid switch if can't hear the drive motor running or a broken motor if drive motor is running and water drains out when machine is set to drain or spin. Check to make sure that the lid switch bumper is intact.You can manually activate the lid switch by pushing a non-conducting tool into the lid switch.
The lid switch condition can be verified by checking the continuity of the lid switch contacts and/or bypassing then running the machine. It is indeed not making contacts if there's no continuity when activated and/or still does not run when the lid switch is bypassed.
Disconnect power then release the console from the top of the cabinet by prying the console end caps then removing the screws attaching the console to the cabinet top. Pull forward and up on the
console and lay it back on the hinges.
Disconnect the lid switch harness connector by pressing on the tab
located in the middle and pulling it up.
Close the lid then test the lid switch contacts for continuity through the lid switch connector terminals on the cabinet top. If no gadget available to test the continuity, bypass the lid switch. Jump a wire between the terminals of the wire harness connector where the lid switch connector terminals connect to. Once done, reconnect power then run a test. The lid switch contacts are indeed not closing if the motor runs and the machine works. Replace the lid switch part number 3949238 which will require the removal of the cabinet.
The cabinet is attached
to the rear of the washer by
two brass-colored
retaining clips. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the turned-up edge
of the clip, located on both sides, and then pry back to release the
clip from the slot in the cabinet.
Open and hold the lid while grabbing
the cabinet front opening then tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by
pulling the cabinet away from the base. This releases the front and
back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the front and back of the
base. 
Using the side of your leg and/or body as a support for the front
of the cabinet, carefully lift up the cabinet and lay the front on a cushioned floor to access the lid switch.
Remove
the lid switch ground and mounting screws then release the wire harness
from the metal retainers. Pull the lid switch connector out and install
the new lid switch in reverse order of the removal steps.
Bring the cabinet to the front of the washer then slide the front bottom rail of the cabinet under the rail at the
base
of the machine then lay down the cabinet into position ensuring that the back of the cabinet locks into the base and the
slots in the cabinet sit into the tabs at the base of machine.
Reconnect
the lid switch harness then push the retaining clips back down into position
to secure the cabinet to the rear of the machine. Reinstall and secure
the console to complete the repair.
109 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×